HeadStock throughbore size

I started doing repairs using my Dads wood lathe with a 1/2" thru hole. I used the steady rest to hold the tip end outboard, Wasn't the best, but it was what I could afford at the time. I then bought an Atlas machine lathe from the late 40's from a gunsmith shop and it was missing a lot of the normal parts, thank God for Ebay. Bed was only 42" long but that wasn't the between centers measurement, that was the total bed length. Remember you need the length of the tailstock with livecenter, , then the headstock and any spur drivers, etc. then subtract that from the total bed length and you get a better picture of what your working length really is.My Atlas has a MT3 spindle, but the thru hole still isn't large enough for normal building. I did build a few cues using steady rests and such, but it was a real pain in the azz. Spending a lot of time doing a task, then finding out it doesn't roll true really sucks. I upgraded the bed to a 54" and now use it only for tapering butts and shafts. I bought a used Cuesmith Deluxe with the 1.380 headstock and have no regrets. When I do a joint pin install or threading a shaft, knowing it was done right the first time, and not spending 1/2 an hour just to dial stuff in, is awesome. In this area of cuemaking, IMO, Larger is better as it opens your options to use whatever method you want to build with. Starting off small is ok, but as time goes by, you will need to enlarge things. If you have the money and the time to wait, go for a larger thru bore, IMO.
Dave
 
Pretty much what Chris has said is what I was thinking, just didn't write it...lol. I core my cues, and if one chooses to build their cues that way, that is one step that needs a larger headstock.
Dave

I agree that if you can, the larger bore is a more elegant solution for a more civilized age, again, however, your statement isn't correct. Gunsmiths have been boring and rifling barrels with a steady rest for a long time. Many of them actually argue against going through the headstock BC of the possibility of the barrel not being completely true and never knowing it.

There has been quite a number of discussions here about that very topic with butts being held under stress between the front and rear chucks. Again, I'm not arguing that he should do it that way, but saying you have to isn't correct.
 
Hello all,

Basic question I have always understood a lathe used for cue building should have no smaller than a 1 3/8 through bore size. Is this the minimum size or would a 25/32 be large enough?

Thanks for your time,

Matthew

It is not necessary to have a large bore head stock but it sure makes life easier. On my hightower lathe with a 1 3/8 bore I can slide the head stock on the lathe bed and use the front and rear chuck as well as a steady rest in front and behind the head stock. It's just more versatile.

Kim
 
Hello Chris,

Great pints to take into consideration. Not sure I would have the time to get the machine set up in that way until I would be done with school. I have been browsing for a lathe about 2 year, so not in a rush. The machine is a belt drive tool lathe for a good price minor electrical work :D so right up my alley. May still buy it seems that most people that get into this addiction have more than one lathe any way.

thank you for your time,

Matthew
Make sure it has at least 36 inches between centers.
 
Make sure it has at least 36 inches between centers.

Just a note.... Actually put the centers in the chuck and tail stock and see what you measure between the centers.............. you might be surprised.....

Kim
 
Just a note.... Actually put the centers in the chuck and tail stock and see what you measure between the centers.............. you might be surprised.....

Kim

You can likely get several more inches if you remove the chuck - it will be better centered also.

Dale
 
You can likely get several more inches if you remove the chuck - it will be better centered also.

Dale

I realize that with a small bore headstock you can put in a tapered center but what about a large bore headstock? How do you put a center in one of those after removing the chuck?

Kim
 
I realize that with a small bore headstock you can put in a tapered center but what about a large bore headstock? How do you put a center in one of those after removing the chuck?

Kim

With a lathe spindle taper. They all come with them. For any important turning the chuck is always removed.
 
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I realize that with a small bore headstock you can put in a tapered center but what about a large bore headstock? How do you put a center in one of those after removing the chuck?

Kim

Good question.

All the ones I know of have a taper in the front section of the spindle. Mine is
MT5. It's is similar to putting a dead center in the tailstock. You need to bang it out
from the back with a rod, just like you do on a wood lathe.

HTH
Dale
 
Good question.

All the ones I know of have a taper in the front section of the spindle. Mine is
MT5. It's is similar to putting a dead center in the tailstock. You need to bang it out
from the back with a rod, just like you do on a wood lathe.

HTH
Dale

didn;t realize that........... I thought the big ones were bored straight

just looked that up.... an MT5 is 1.475 on the small end

Kim
 
didn;t realize that........... I thought the big ones were bored straight

just looked that up.... an MT5 is 1.475 on the small end

Kim
yep, its a beast
must weigh 2 pounds
enco's was about $13 if i recall
if it was american made, who knows how much
 
Really great information in this thread! Great thanks to all who have contributed so far!

Matthew


Post it up
 
Good question.

All the ones I know of have a taper in the front section of the spindle. Mine is
MT5. It's is similar to putting a dead center in the tailstock. You need to bang it out
from the back with a rod, just like you do on a wood lathe.

HTH
Dale

Does this pertain to the Taig based ones or just large bore headstocks in general?
Dave
 
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