HeadStock throughbore size

Electech

on the b train again....
Silver Member
Hello all,

Basic question I have always understood a lathe used for cue building should have no smaller than a 1 3/8 through bore size. Is this the minimum size or would a 25/32 be large enough?

Thanks for your time,

Matthew
 
Cue BUILDING, no, cue REPAIR, it will do quite a lot, with some mods and imagination.
Dave
 
Cue BUILDING, no, cue REPAIR, it will do quite a lot, with some mods and imagination.
Dave

That's what i thought but wanted to ask. Thanks! The search continues........Maybe
 
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I have to respectfully disagree, depending on the length of the lathe, you can build cues without ever putting the cue through the headstock. You'll need to have a bed long enough to access the full length of the cue and just put the other end in a steady rest. If you can drill, bite, and cut the full length of the cue, the headstock size doesn't matter.
 
I have to respectfully disagree, depending on the length of the lathe, you can build cues without ever putting the cue through the headstock. You'll need to have a bed long enough to access the full length of the cue and just put the other end in a steady rest. If you can drill, bite, and cut the full length of the cue, the headstock size doesn't matter.

Reportedly, George Balabuska's only lathe had a through-hole of about 3/4". 'Nuff said.

TW

 
Interesting. Guess that would make sense so say 36" between centers with a steady rest. The machine in question has 36" between centers so that should be enough. May have to take a second look at it and see what fixtures it may need.

Thanks!


I have to respectfully disagree, depending on the length of the lathe, you can build cues without ever putting the cue through the headstock. You'll need to have a bed long enough to access the full length of the cue and just put the other end in a steady rest. If you can drill, bite, and cut the full length of the cue, the headstock size doesn't matter.



Reportedly, George Balabuska's only lathe had a through-hole of about 3/4". 'Nuff said.

TW

 
If you have a choice, large spindle bore with back chuck makes more sense. You can still use your steady rest. It is alway better to have more utility from your equipment.

Just because George did not use this set up means nothing. You can also put dot inlays pockets on a cue with a drill press too if you don't want to buy a more accurate mill or Panto. Have fun with that set up.

If you have someone else do your point work and can call yourself a Cue Maker not a Cue assembler if you want. Nuff said. Times are a lot different today.

It is all how one looks at a situation.

Rick
 
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If you have a choice, large spindle bore with back chuck makes more sense. You can still use your steady rest. It is alway better to have more utility from your equipment.

Everyone knows that, Rick... and I do mean EVERYONE. So thank you for stating the obvious.

But the OP specifically asked if a large-bore lathe is necessary, and the answer to that question - the one the OP specifically wanted an answer to - is "No".

Just because George did not use this set up means nothing. [...]

Actually, it means everything in regard to answering the OP's question. I know it's a difficult concept for some to grasp, but the fact that the most famous cuemaker to ever live did not need a "large spindle bore with back chuck" means that someone without access to larger equipment can take hope in the fact that a smaller lathe can still be made to work.

You can also put dot inlays pockets on a cue with a drill press too if you don't want to buy a more accurate mill or Panto. Have fun with that set up.

That would be a great example of reductio absurdum, except that Balabushka (the most famous cuemaker to ever live, remember?) actual did use a drill press to inlay round dots.

If you have someone else do your point work and can call yourself a Cue Maker not a Cue assembler if you want. Nuff said. Times are a lot different today.

Interesting perspective from someone who historically has had other people do a lot of the work in his cues.

TW

 
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I built cues for several years without a large spindle bore, using a steady rest with collets in it to do the joint work. I had a small spindle bore on a few machines in my shop that would allow me to do the tip and ferrule work through the headstock and joint work through the steady rest.

So to answer your question. Yes 25/32" would be large enough to do repair work and build cues IF the rest of the lathe is set up right. That is a big IF!

But my advice after having the larger spindle bore for the last 20 plus years is to spend the extra money and get the larger bore. Although you can get by without it, life will be much easier with the larger spindle bore.
 
I built cues for several years without a large spindle bore, using a steady rest with collets in it to do the joint work. I had a small spindle bore on a few machines in my shop that would allow me to do the tip and ferrule work through the headstock and joint work through the steady rest.

So to answer your question. Yes 25/32" would be large enough to do repair work and build cues IF the rest of the lathe is set up right. That is a big IF!

But my advice after having the larger spindle bore for the last 20 plus years is to spend the extra money and get the larger bore. Although you can get by without it, life will be much easier with the larger spindle bore.

Pretty much what Chris has said is what I was thinking, just didn't write it...lol. I core my cues, and if one chooses to build their cues that way, that is one step that needs a larger headstock.
Dave
 
Hello all,

Basic question I have always understood a lathe used for cue building should have no smaller than a 1 3/8 through bore size. Is this the minimum size or would a 25/32 be large enough?

Thanks for your time,

Matthew

The answer is yes, you can build cues with a smaller bore as long as the lathe is long enough. You will have to be a little more clever and use some ingenuity making jigs and set-ups to get the jobs done.

If you get a chance to pick up a used lathe at a good price that is long enough do it. Then always be on the look out for another lathe with a bigger bore. The old SB heavy 10 has a large bore as well as a few Logan's.

I mention these lathes because they are not monster size lathes yet have larger bores. It does not require a huge lathe to build cues, it is light duty work. Most cue makers have the big lathes I think because they need the big bore.

I would not buy a new lathe without the bigger bore. As long as you are spending the money you might as well get what you really need. Good used lathes are often hard to find.

A "SB heavy 10" though is the nuts if you can find one. In fact if you found one in good shape, even if it was a few hundred miles away it may be worth renting a truck and getting it. They are like they were built for cue makers.

I should add also, if you buy something you will never not have a use it. You don't replace lathes, you just get more. You may be shocked how many lathes some guys have, even just the hobbyists.
 
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Out of curiosity, what is the practicaly of boring out a head stock? Has any one ever done it?
 
Out of curiosity, what is the practicaly of boring out a head stock? Has any one ever done it?

I have modified so many wood lathes with small bores and so many earlier metal lathes that I have long lost count. But saying that we were still only able to bore out the spindles so much. They don't normally use 1.5" outside diameter spindles for a small bore machines. I have a wood lathe in my shop that has a 1.4" bore, but we had to totally change the bearings out to do it. I used to buy the wood lathes that had #1MT headstock spindles and bore them out to almost 5/8. I have an old craftsman metal lathe in my shop that I drilled out the spindle just large enough to do tip and ferrule work on it. I have not used it for anything, but working small metal parts in many years.

So since he is asking about the large bore the only way to get that on a small bore machine is to rebuild the headstock.
 


Everyone knows that, Rick... and I do mean EVERYONE. So thank you for stating the obvious.

But the OP specifically asked if a large-bore lathe is necessary, and the answer to that question - the one the OP specifically wanted an answer to - is "No".



Actually, it means everything in regard to answering the OP's question. I know it's a difficult concept for some to grasp, but the fact that the most famous cuemaker to ever live did not need a "large spindle bore with back chuck" means that someone without access to larger equipment can take hope in the fact that a smaller lathe can still be made to work.



That would be a great example of reductio absurdum, except that Balabushka (the most famous cuemaker to ever live, remember?) actual did use a drill press to inlay round dots.



Interesting perspective from someone who historically has had other people do a lot of the work in his cues.

TW


Mind reading with misinformation is dangerous. I take no offense but must respond to innuendo that is incorrect.

I do every operation on every custom cue I build exclusively.

I have a few people in my shop that wish to be cue makers and they are at my side when some inexpensive spec cues are made. I let them have some hands on the dials and they sell those spec cues and make some money for themselves too. Why you may ask sarcastically?, because I am a very social person and like company in my shop. I am not a recluse or hermit.

A customer who orders a custom cue from me gets my 100% hands on effort every time.

BTW, I am glad you said George was the most famous CM not the best as that is a statement I can agree with. Now Gus would be an entirely different situation because most famous and one of the best would be right in my view for what that is worth.

Burton and John were the back story to George's cues being what they were me thinks.

JMO and everyone is entitled to their own.:wink:

Rick
 
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Mind reading with misinformation is dangerous. I take no offense but must respond to innuendo that is incorrect.

I do every operation on every custom cue I build exclusively.

[...]

So the cue you produced that contained Crossbones parts did NOT have inlay work by another cuemaker, and the airbrushed cues were... were what? How do these cues - which clearly DO have other people involved in various "operations" - how do they dovetail into your claim of all work done exclusively by you?

TW

 


So the cue you produced that contained Crossbones parts did NOT have inlay work by another cuemaker, and the airbrushed cues were... were what? How do these cues - which clearly DO have other people involved in various "operations" - how do they dovetail into your claim of all work done exclusively by you?

TW


The customer sent me that sleeve and wanted me to build the cue. I only inlayed four matching geometries from the buttsleeve in the points. So what?

You are really something else Tom. I would hate to be a lawyer going up against you because you really know how to cast doubt on a circumstance.:eek:

I do what my customers ask. That cue was an isolated situation and I made sure the that it was known as a mutt cue. It was my idea and I engraved Steve's initials in the butt sleeve so he was credited with that portion of the build. The customer bought that butt sleeve after Steve offered them for sale on AZ and before he hired me to build the point cue. He also supplied OB 1 shafts.

My partner Cue Artist Ken Simonsen in "Art on Cue" performs the artwork which is hand brushed with a sable liner brush with air brush for outline and shading. You can't get that detail with an air brush only.

At the owners request I have also made two cues from John Davis blanks. Again with full disclosure. That was something that I had been looking forward to do for many years.

Rick
 
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The customer sent me that sleeve and wanted me to build the cue. I only inlayed four matching geometries from the buttsleeve in the points. So what?

You are really something else Tom. I would hate to be a lawyer going up against you because you really know how to cast doubt on a circumstance.:eek:

I do what my customers ask. That cue was an isolated situation and I made sure the that it was known as a mutt cue. It was my idea and I engraved Steve's initials in the butt sleeve so he was credited with that portion of the build. The customer bought that butt sleeve after Steve offered them for sale on AZ and before he hired me to build the point cue. He also supplied OB 1 shafts.

My partner Cue Artist Ken Simonsen in "Art on Cue" performs the artwork which is hand brushed with a sable liner brush with air brush for outline and shading. You can't get that detail with an air brush only.

At the owners request I have also made two cues from John Davis blanks. Again with full disclosure. That was something that I had been looking forward to do for many years.

Rick

So what? So the truth conflicts directly with your earlier claim:

Mind reading with misinformation is dangerous. I take no offense but must respond to innuendo that is incorrect.

I do every operation on every custom cue I build exclusively.

[...]

Here's how it went down (you can check directly above to see this is accurate):

1) I wrote "Interesting perspective from someone who historically has had other people do a lot of the work in his cues." in response to your [implied] criticism of George Balabushka for buying his full- and half-splice blanks from others;

2) You responded by claiming you "do every operation" yourself (quoted above);

3) I countered that false claim by pointing out a number of cues you've proudly displayed here on the forum on which you did NOT "do every operation yourself.

So what? So maybe save your holier-than-thou attitude for something where you actually ARE holier... should such an occasion ever arise.

Also, not to put too fine a point on it, but you should look up "innuendo". As you often do, you've misapplied that word to what I wrote - which was clear as crystal and contained no "innuendo" at all.

TW

 
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Hello Chris,

Great pints to take into consideration. Not sure I would have the time to get the machine set up in that way until I would be done with school. I have been browsing for a lathe about 2 year, so not in a rush. The machine is a belt drive tool lathe for a good price minor electrical work :D so right up my alley. May still buy it seems that most people that get into this addiction have more than one lathe any way.

thank you for your time,

Matthew



I built cues for several years without a large spindle bore, using a steady rest with collets in it to do the joint work. I had a small spindle bore on a few machines in my shop that would allow me to do the tip and ferrule work through the headstock and joint work through the steady rest.

So to answer your question. Yes 25/32" would be large enough to do repair work and build cues IF the rest of the lathe is set up right. That is a big IF!

But my advice after having the larger spindle bore for the last 20 plus years is to spend the extra money and get the larger bore. Although you can get by without it, life will be much easier with the larger spindle bore.
 
I have seem the heavy 10 come up quite a bit here and there. Always dismissed it due to the distance between centers. Guess I need to look at one if another comes up.

Thank you for your time,

Matthew

The answer is yes, you can build cues with a smaller bore as long as the lathe is long enough. You will have to be a little more clever and use some ingenuity making jigs and set-ups to get the jobs done.

If you get a chance to pick up a used lathe at a good price that is long enough do it. Then always be on the look out for another lathe with a bigger bore. The old SB heavy 10 has a large bore as well as a few Logan's.

I mention these lathes because they are not monster size lathes yet have larger bores. It does not require a huge lathe to build cues, it is light duty work. Most cue makers have the big lathes I think because they need the big bore.

I would not buy a new lathe without the bigger bore. As long as you are spending the money you might as well get what you really need. Good used lathes are often hard to find.

A "SB heavy 10" though is the nuts if you can find one. In fact if you found one in good shape, even if it was a few hundred miles away it may be worth renting a truck and getting it. They are like they were built for cue makers.

I should add also, if you buy something you will never not have a use it. You don't replace lathes, you just get more. You may be shocked how many lathes some guys have, even just the hobbyists.
 
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