Help with cue choice

New to the forums, have not really played much but spotty over the past countless years. I still have my old crummy cue from many many years ago.
Finally set up my garage with a new table and light.

I see countless options for cues ranging from $150 to over the price of my table.

Is there a thread or site that explains how the different options effect how the cue plays? I don't mean wrap or wrap-less , but 'Mc Dermot'/ 'predator' this or that and how they differ.
In the past I preferred the larger diameter tips, and even used to replace the tips myself- but the advise I get from the folks I've talked to recently has been to have it done professionally.

I am 100% green and would like to get some info so I can get some direction in my choice.

Thanks, Steve
 
New to the forums, have not really played much but spotty over the past countless years. I still have my old crummy cue from many many years ago.
Finally set up my garage with a new table and light.

I see countless options for cues ranging from $150 to over the price of my table.

Is there a thread or site that explains how the different options effect how the cue plays? I don't mean wrap or wrap-less , but 'Mc Dermot'/ 'predator' this or that and how they differ.
In the past I preferred the larger diameter tips, and even used to replace the tips myself- but the advise I get from the folks I've talked to recently has been to have it done professionally.

I am 100% green and would like to get some info so I can get some direction in my choice.

Thanks, Steve

best way to start is to use the seach function
go to the cue review forum (this one ) or the main forum
go to advanced seach and type in a topic and choose threads only instead of posts
 
Basically, the more a cue costs, the more work it's had on it, or the higher the price of the materials/woods used. Neither will affect how the cue plays, broadly speaking. The tip is the most important thing, followed by the shaft, the joint and then the butt.

Essentially, a cue like a Predator Ikon 1 will play the same (or very similar) to a Predator Ikon 9, even though there's a huge difference in price - all you're paying for is decoration to the butt.

All this is subjective and not iron- cast, but it is a reasonable guide.

What you need to decide is a) how much you want to spend, b) choose custom or production, c) whether you want a low deflection shaft or not.

As for how cues compare in terms of hit, you'll need to try a load to see what you prefer. There's a lot of personal preference involved and treat all personal recommendations with suspicion. Ultimately, you'll adjust to whatever cue you buy, so go ahead and pick one. If you buy a production cue, buy from seyberts or one of the other retailers that offer a money back guarantee - that way, you can send back a cue if you don't like it.
 
Thanks for the info. pretty straight forward. I try and 'shoot' around a bit and see if I can try some different cues also. Some really nice looking ones on the seyberts site.

Steve
 
Thanks for the info. pretty straight forward. I try and 'shoot' around a bit and see if I can try some different cues also. Some really nice looking ones on the seyberts site.

Steve

This is your best bet....try as many different types of cues that you can, to see what you might like. Some are just going to feel better to you...and you'll know pretty quickly which ones you like once you find them. From there you can kinda whittle it down.

Easiest to start with a production cue...as you will likely run into these more. Lucasi, Fury, McDermott, Joss all have their fans...and they are a good starting point. I would stay away from laminated shafts to start, as they are expensive, and if you are as green as you are stating, their purpose will be lost on you to start. You can ALWAYS pick up a laminated shaft later. A good ol' fashioned maple shaft will do the trick to get you started. I would personally suggest you stay away from fiberglass and graphite cues, as the shafts are typically coated with fiberglass, and can become increasing frustrating as they will get sticky.

Best of luck on your search...and have fun with it!

Lisa
 
Like you I wonder about some basic things, I guess I need a book with pictures. For instance, define and explain with drawings please:
Cored construction
3 piece construction
full spliced construction
wood to wood joint
wood to metal joint
metal to metal joint
"fiber" joints
etc...


I would love to see common production cues construction explained so a person can have an idea if there should be a difference in cues.
 
First thing you need to start with is-----how much do you want to spend.:thumbup:

Never spend retail price! You'll need to contact a dealer personally for your best price.:smile:
 
Ok let me jump in here. If you can spend $500 just get a basic Schon.
Buy it ,play with it and be done.
they are well made good playing cues that will last a life time if cared for.
 
Like you I wonder about some basic things, I guess I need a book with pictures. For instance, define and explain with drawings please:
Cored construction
3 piece construction
full spliced construction
wood to wood joint
wood to metal joint
metal to metal joint
"fiber" joints
etc...


I would love to see common production cues construction explained so a person can have an idea if there should be a difference in cues.

FLOPPER
is that you in your avatar??
just askin??:cool:
heres a source to your questions
http://www.cuesmith.com/index.php?page=book_video

i sent you a pm in case you dont get back to this thread
AND
if thats you in your avatar
AND you are not married
maybe we could get to know each other
:thumbup:
 
Suggestions:

Sneaky Pete: Bob Fry
Basic Plain Jane: Ted Harris or TAD but those are EXPENSIVE!

then

Find a "good" local cue repairman to experiment with tips, tapers & weight bolt additions.

Most do not customize or personalize their cue! The cue maker can only do so much! You have to experiment with balance point by moving the weight bolt around. You have to experiment with a pro 15' taper and straight taper. You have to experiment with tip hardness. You have to experiment with ferrulle material.

it takes time and money getting your equipment tweaked for you game!!!
work on determining these things first and start cheap to allow you to tinker more with your equipment and get it fine tuned for your game!!

KD
 
Quote:bbb
FLOPPER
is that you in your avatar??
just askin??
heres a source to your questions
http://www.cuesmith.com/index.php?page=book_video

i sent you a pm in case you dont get back to this thread
AND
if thats you in your avatar
AND you are not married
maybe we could get to know each other


Really, Wonder Woman???
You wanna hook-up with Wonder Woman???
You do realize that's a cartoon, right???
 
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Great suggestions KD.
I have been poking around locally and most places only have $100-$200 cues. So far for a cheap one I like the dufferin protaper 13mm 20 oz the best. just over $100 and plays about $200 better than my old cue. My table guy suggests tiger. I may take a ride and check them out as well. also may just grab a dufferin for the short haul and let my wife use it when I figure out more.
 
"You have to experiment with a pro 15' taper and straight taper"
15 feet of taper is alot !!!
 
Hello all pool players :)

I'm a fairly new player and still learning the game. I've found a low budget cue that i want to buy. However, the cue tip on it is water buffalo, which is recommended for breaking, and i need a cue to play with. So, can i buy a normal cue tip and replace it, and if there is some kind of "changing the tip" guide, please link me. Ty
 
Hello all pool players :)

I'm a fairly new player and still learning the game. I've found a low budget cue that i want to buy. However, the cue tip on it is water buffalo, which is recommended for breaking, and i need a cue to play with. So, can i buy a normal cue tip and replace it, and if there is some kind of "changing the tip" guide, please link me. Ty

How about a link to this cue.We can not help if it is a mystery.
 
It's one of the Doctor Cheng's cues... Here is a link towards one, others are same, other than pattern and weight (18-21oz)...

LINK
 
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It's one of the Doctor Cheng's cues... Here is a link towards one, others are same, other than pattern and weight (18-21oz)...

LINK

That's a playing tip. No need to change it. Try it out first before deciding to change it.

But I think you can do better than that for a cue, even on a tight budget. The "Doctor Cheng" cues, for those who aren't aware, are Delta Cues.
 
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