Help with Porper Little Shaver

BVal

BVal

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Does anyone have a copy of the directions on how to use this? or could you please explain the process in detail. If you have a copy of the directions is it possible for you to scan them in and post them or email them to me? I thank you in advance for your help.

BVal
 
I found this...

BVal said:
Does anyone have a copy of the directions on how to use this? or could you please explain the process in detail. If you have a copy of the directions is it possible for you to scan them in and post them or email them to me? I thank you in advance for your help.

BVal
Click to expand...

This is the best I could find as far as directions for use.

Dwight

http://www.borderbilliards.com/joe-porper-little-shaver.html
 
Tossed my instructions. If memory serves, You put the shaft through the hole...I know, I know. Then put the tip down on that little rubberish pad and while holding the little shaver flush lengthwise against the shaft, taking care not to angle the sharp end into the ferrule, push down and trim off the mushroom of the tip, rotate and do another section until the tip is trimmed flush. Hope this is useful, good luck.
 
s'portplayer said:
It does now that you mention it.

How did all the perverted minds end up on AZ?:D :D :D

ROTF
Click to expand...

Think of all the terms to describe the game of pool. There is your answer.:eek:
 
BVal said:
Does anyone have a copy of the directions on how to use this? or could you please explain the process in detail. If you have a copy of the directions is it possible for you to scan them in and post them or email them to me? I thank you in advance for your help.

BVal
Click to expand...

I tested my tip installing skills on some old house cues at my favorite local barbox watering hole. Among some other newly purchased tip tools, this was one of them and even with the directions, I failed miserably. The thing is so small and you have to push hard at just the right angle, I don't know, maybe it's one of those things you have to practice.

I would definitely put on some masking tape and leave about a 1/4" of the ferrule exposed near the tip. This is mainly to protect from scratching the shaft or ferrule with the fat end of the shaver.

Good Luck!
 
Hmm, my first thought was I could use one of those if it works and is adjustable. Then I saw they have a mushroom tip grazer that's adjustable. Any idea how well that one works?
 
Little Shaver Advice

I love the little shaver. I have no lathe and this tool helps out tremendously. heres my method.

1. Masking tape 1 layer around the ferrule. Tape should line up with the end of ferrule and the bottom of the tip. I actually put the tape on before i remove the old tip. This allows you to line the tape up evenly. If you are just using the little shaver to trim a mushroom, apply tape and move to next step. 1 layer is all you need. Any more tape and it leaves to much tip to sand down by hand.

2. Place the black little shaver pad down on a stable surface. The pad keeps the tip sharp by not letting it slam down onto a hard surface.

3. Slide the shaver over the shaft and place the tip of the shaft down onto the pad. Apply firm pressure to hold it in place.

4. The little shaver is meant to take off small mounts of tip and not slice through the whole tip in one try. I recommend a slight twisting motion while pushing the blade down into the tip. If you start removing the outer edge and moving in towards the shaft it works the best. If you try to cut through the entire tip and press hard the tip has a chance to come off.
Keep using twisting motions , small bit by small bit. You will have a nice smooth round outer edge. When the little shaver wont remove any more of the tip STOP.

The tip will not be so smooth thats the end, a few more steps and you are done.

5. I recommend a 400 grit sandpaper. I leave the tape on and use the sand paper to remover the jagged edges and bring the tip closer to smoothness.
Repeat with 600. Pay attention to the masking tape. Dont start removing it and sanding the ferrule. The tip is close to being flush with the white ferrule. Remove the tape and continue with the 600 use your fingers after a few swipe with the 600. It wont take long to bring it flush. Shape your tip at this point. THe tip will shape nicely and any rough edges will be remove by another few swipes of the 600.

Repeat steps with 1000 and 1500. These grits are more of a polishing then removal step. Remove the tape. You can use the 1500 and really apply pressure as you wrap the piece of 1500 around the tip and turn the shaft like a pencil sharpener motion.

The tip will be very smooth at this point the final touch i use to burnish the tip. I get a smooth cotton rag. I use a hard carnuba wax. I load the rag with it by just rubbing the rag all over the wax can. with your fingers press the waxed rag along the side of the tip and twist it with alot of pressure. If you can have some on twist the cue rapidly for you as you hold the waxed cloth it will crate a great heat and seal the tip. Try not to let the wax get onto the top of the tip. If it does hit it with the 400 and rough it up.

Chalk it up and your ready to slap the cue ball all the english you can apply.

I have used the SHAVER on all tip types , layered, soft, hard and even hard break tips. The trick is little pieces. Just go bit by bit and you will go alot easier than removing big chunks.

Hope that helps.

PAt
 
obrien714 said:
I love the little shaver. I have no lathe and this tool helps out tremendously. heres my method.

1. Masking tape 1 layer around the ferrule. Tape should line up with the end of ferrule and the bottom of the tip. I actually put the tape on before i remove the old tip. This allows you to line the tape up evenly. If you are just using the little shaver to trim a mushroom, apply tape and move to next step. 1 layer is all you need. Any more tape and it leaves to much tip to sand down by hand.

2. Place the black little shaver pad down on a stable surface. The pad keeps the tip sharp by not letting it slam down onto a hard surface.

3. Slide the shaver over the shaft and place the tip of the shaft down onto the pad. Apply firm pressure to hold it in place.

4. The little shaver is meant to take off small mounts of tip and not slice through the whole tip in one try. I recommend a slight twisting motion while pushing the blade down into the tip. If you start removing the outer edge and moving in towards the shaft it works the best. If you try to cut through the entire tip and press hard the tip has a chance to come off.
Keep using twisting motions , small bit by small bit. You will have a nice smooth round outer edge. When the little shaver wont remove any more of the tip STOP.

The tip will not be so smooth thats the end, a few more steps and you are done.

5. I recommend a 400 grit sandpaper. I leave the tape on and use the sand paper to remover the jagged edges and bring the tip closer to smoothness.
Repeat with 600. Pay attention to the masking tape. Dont start removing it and sanding the ferrule. The tip is close to being flush with the white ferrule. Remove the tape and continue with the 600 use your fingers after a few swipe with the 600. It wont take long to bring it flush. Shape your tip at this point. THe tip will shape nicely and any rough edges will be remove by another few swipes of the 600.

Repeat steps with 1000 and 1500. These grits are more of a polishing then removal step. Remove the tape. You can use the 1500 and really apply pressure as you wrap the piece of 1500 around the tip and turn the shaft like a pencil sharpener motion.

The tip will be very smooth at this point the final touch i use to burnish the tip. I get a smooth cotton rag. I use a hard carnuba wax. I load the rag with it by just rubbing the rag all over the wax can. with your fingers press the waxed rag along the side of the tip and twist it with alot of pressure. If you can have some on twist the cue rapidly for you as you hold the waxed cloth it will crate a great heat and seal the tip. Try not to let the wax get onto the top of the tip. If it does hit it with the 400 and rough it up.

Chalk it up and your ready to slap the cue ball all the english you can apply.

I have used the SHAVER on all tip types , layered, soft, hard and even hard break tips. The trick is little pieces. Just go bit by bit and you will go alot easier than removing big chunks.

Hope that helps.

PAt
Click to expand...
Thanks Pat - Rep to you!

BVal
 
obrien714 said:
I love the little shaver. I have no lathe and this tool helps out tremendously. heres my method.

1. Masking tape 1 layer around the ferrule. Tape should line up with the end of ferrule and the bottom of the tip. I actually put the tape on before i remove the old tip. This allows you to line the tape up evenly. If you are just using the little shaver to trim a mushroom, apply tape and move to next step. 1 layer is all you need. Any more tape and it leaves to much tip to sand down by hand.

2. Place the black little shaver pad down on a stable surface. The pad keeps the tip sharp by not letting it slam down onto a hard surface.

3. Slide the shaver over the shaft and place the tip of the shaft down onto the pad. Apply firm pressure to hold it in place.

4. The little shaver is meant to take off small mounts of tip and not slice through the whole tip in one try. I recommend a slight twisting motion while pushing the blade down into the tip. If you start removing the outer edge and moving in towards the shaft it works the best. If you try to cut through the entire tip and press hard the tip has a chance to come off.
Keep using twisting motions , small bit by small bit. You will have a nice smooth round outer edge. When the little shaver wont remove any more of the tip STOP.

The tip will not be so smooth thats the end, a few more steps and you are done.

5. I recommend a 400 grit sandpaper. I leave the tape on and use the sand paper to remover the jagged edges and bring the tip closer to smoothness.
Repeat with 600. Pay attention to the masking tape. Dont start removing it and sanding the ferrule. The tip is close to being flush with the white ferrule. Remove the tape and continue with the 600 use your fingers after a few swipe with the 600. It wont take long to bring it flush. Shape your tip at this point. THe tip will shape nicely and any rough edges will be remove by another few swipes of the 600.

Repeat steps with 1000 and 1500. These grits are more of a polishing then removal step. Remove the tape. You can use the 1500 and really apply pressure as you wrap the piece of 1500 around the tip and turn the shaft like a pencil sharpener motion.

The tip will be very smooth at this point the final touch i use to burnish the tip. I get a smooth cotton rag. I use a hard carnuba wax. I load the rag with it by just rubbing the rag all over the wax can. with your fingers press the waxed rag along the side of the tip and twist it with alot of pressure. If you can have some on twist the cue rapidly for you as you hold the waxed cloth it will crate a great heat and seal the tip. Try not to let the wax get onto the top of the tip. If it does hit it with the 400 and rough it up.

Chalk it up and your ready to slap the cue ball all the english you can apply.

I have used the SHAVER on all tip types , layered, soft, hard and even hard break tips. The trick is little pieces. Just go bit by bit and you will go alot easier than removing big chunks.

Hope that helps.

PAt
Click to expand...

This makes a lot of sense however I'm still not sure what I was doing wrong. It seemed that I just couldn't get the thing to take off a little at a time like you suggested. Either it would slide off the edge or take a big chunk off. I was using Elkmaster tips that seemed hard as rocks and yeah, I popped a couple off. lol

It was still fun trying to do it. I appreciate the skill of the experts more because of it. :D
 
If I may add one word of caution: I wouldn't use it with layered tips because it is cutting across the lamination and could easily separate the layers. It is great for elk master, triangle, etc., though. I had a friend that used this tool exclusively for 3 years and he trimmed everyone's tip in the poolroom without a problem.

Dave
 
Little Shaver

You are waaaaay better off taking your shaft to a professional & have him trim & re-shape your tip, most will do it for free if they installed the tip or if you are a regular customer.
Good luck
 
layered tips

I have been using mooris tips for years. I have never had a layer come off. Just go easy and take of a little at a time. Speed is not your friend with a moori.

As far as it sliding off the side. Thats no problem, just remove little by little and it will straighten out as you get down farther.

I wish i lived close to a cue maker or had a lathe. Til then the little shaper is for me.

One more tip. When it seems the little shaver isnt cutting the tip and just wont do it. Get another one. It will get dull.

Anyone know how to sharpen the little guy?

PAt
 
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Prior to getting a Willard, and a shaft turning drill set-up, I used the Little Shaver and liked it fine with no problems on one piece or layered tips. It worked better than any other method I had been able to find.
 
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