help with selecting a tip

  • Thread starter Thread starter alwayzcocacola0
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I would definitely go with the Diamond Pro, although the Gold Crown is also a great ta........... OOOOOPS wrong thread:o :o

Talisman will get the job done.;)
 
CrownCityCorey said:
Here, I'll help you pick one.

Have a Sniper installed. Next question?


I would normally agree. But the last Sniper I had seemed to glaze up on me. I did decide to have my OB-2 fitted once again. I think I'll give another try.
 
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Form your own opinion

alwayzcocacola0 said:
I have always used an elkmaster(Blah) tip. and have no clue about tips. I assume moori tips are teh best for less deflection and chalk hold. just wondering the differences in soft, medium, hard tips. why you would like each stiffness? and if not moori which one? I want the best tip i can get because im trying to get serious with my pool game. I tried to search herew first but could not get anything. tyvm in advance.

You're gonna have to determine what you like before you start down this road of experimentation.

Go to wolfbite.com and read up on their tip section. He has an extensive glossary of tip terms you will appreciate.

If you like a stiff crisp hit, Hercules, Wizard, Kamui, Moori, all those have a good, crisp hit. I personally use the Hercules med/hard extra deluxe as well as the WB from Joe Barringer's cuecomponents.com

Try a Triangle or even a regular lepro. You will be amazed at how much you can do.

Most importantly, don't worry so much about your tip and equipment. Find something you like, and stick with it. You are what is important, not the materials.
 
i've hit with most every type of tip and I used to use Moori mediums religiously, sometimes I used a soft.

I find that Moori's are excellent when they are new or middle aged when they are still holding chalk, but you have to scuff the tips pretty good to keep them chalked later on in life and they just don't play the same... that means no consistency and no consistency is bad, especially at the price of a Moori.

I just bought myself some milk duds from golfparent (aka "Melk Duds") and WOW. Seriously, these tips play significantly better than any Moori I've ever used on their best day. They make a great sound, they hold chalk very very well, and they grip the cue ball great. After playing with the tip for a week or two now I can honestly say that the tip itself has improved my game (even if it is ever so slightly), which is a huge testament to a tip... I didn't think a tip could do that.

These tips last forever and they are CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. Earl Strickland swears by them, the filipinos invented them and swear by them, and I can tell you without a doubt that I'll never use another type of tip. A firm milk dud will also serve very well as a break tip.

Do yourself a favor and at least try these tips, you will not regret it.

I have also hit with a tri-dud done by golfparent that I let my friend buy from me for his cue and it hits equally as good as the milk duds. The tri-dud tip is simply a milk dud made with a triangle tip rather than an Elkmaster. SVB swears by triangle tips. Either the tri-dud or milk dud are going to work great.

I can't overemphasize how much I love these tips.
 
Cuebuddy said:
I would definitely go with the Diamond Pro, although the Gold Crown is also a great ta........... OOOOOPS wrong thread:o :o


top right corner of your keyboard is a button that says "Delete"... that will help you deal with these types of mistakes :p
 
Not to be so damn off topic, but if I do want to try different tips and etc, how would I go about changing a tip. I have never done it before. Can someone please walk me through it, or point me in the right directions? I want to learn to change them myself, because if I try on let's say 5 different tips, I don't want to have to make five different runs to the billiard shop. Thanks all.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
 
chin0 said:
Not to be so damn off topic, but if I do want to try different tips and etc, how would I go about changing a tip. I have never done it before. Can someone please walk me through it, or point me in the right directions? I want to learn to change them myself, because if I try on let's say 5 different tips, I don't want to have to make five different runs to the billiard shop. Thanks all.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino


to really do it properly and effectively you need a cue lathe... you should never be charged more than 10 or 15 bucks for labor on putting on a tip, and you'd have to put on a helluva lot of tips to gain the experience that local cue repair guys have.

Its possible to do it without a lathe, but I have no idea how and don't recommend it.
 
chin0 said:
Not to be so damn off topic, but if I do want to try different tips and etc, how would I go about changing a tip. I have never done it before. Can someone please walk me through it, or point me in the right directions? I want to learn to change them myself, because if I try on let's say 5 different tips, I don't want to have to make five different runs to the billiard shop. Thanks all.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino

Honestly its not that hard to do.....

IF!!!...

you are an arts and crafts type person used to dealing with x-acto knives and and super glue type products... if you have First Place Ribbons on the Car Models you made in high school ... you should be able to figure it out....

if you don't .... pay someone else to do it...


and if you want to try it I recommend trying it on your "other" cue for a while to figure it out...

good luck..
 
Ive been putting my own tips on for years using a cordless drill and a sharp Kershaw pocket knife. I have messed up so many tips and ferrules its not funny, but now Im pretty good at it. It took many mistakes and a long time to be able to do it this way, and as good as I think I can put one on, its usually still not as good as a tip put on by a pro with the best equipement. I say usually, cuz dometimes I even impress myself, lol.:lmao:
 
I was an art major in highschool, and am pretty handy with tools but I have made up my mind, let the pros do it, at least if they mess it up, I have someone to complain to and make them pay for their mistakes, rather than spending money on tips and messing them up myself and cry lol. Thanks for all the help and advice :thumbup: . A lathe is expensive, if I am just doing my own work and not making any profit from it, it is pointless to get one.

Happy shooting!:)

Chino
 
chin0 said:
I was an art major in highschool, and am pretty handy with tools but I have made up my mind, let the pros do it, at least if they mess it up, I have someone to complain to and make them pay for their mistakes, rather than spending money on tips and messing them up myself and cry lol. Thanks for all the help and advice :thumbup: . A lathe is expensive, if I am just doing my own work and not making any profit from it, it is pointless to get one.

Happy shooting!:)

Chino

they're not cheap that's for sure.

i actually do my own tips by hand. there's a pretty good thread here somewhere where there's detailed instructions on how to change your own tips by hand.

as long as you use a really sharp razor and are really careful when sanding everything it's easy enough


found the retipping without a lathe thread
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018&highlight=tips+lathe
 
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Poolplaya9 said:
Different leather tips will make next to no difference in deflection. And Moori tips also have a tendency to glaze over so I wouldn't exactly say they are near the best at holding chalk.

Most people select the tip hardness based on their preferences for hit, weighed against each tip's likelihood for miscueing and mushrooming, as well as for how long they will last. In general (there are always exceptions), a softer tip gives a softer hit and a harder tip gives a harder hit. It's all personal preference, but most good players and pros prefer something between medium and hard. In general, the harder the tip, the less likely you are to get away with a less than perfect stroke and will probably miscue more often. Again in general, a softer tip will mushroom more, and more often, than a harder one. And again in general, the harder the tip, the longer it will last. Some people also feel that softer tips allow them to put more spin on the ball but that is a topic that is debated often and the jury is still out to say the least. So there are pros and cons each way, but a good medium hard tip is a great all around compromise.

My suggestion is a triangle tip. It's extremely consistant from tip to tip, has a nice medium hard hit, holds chalk well and does not miscue often, does not have mushrooming problems (may need mushrooming fixed once if anything), lasts for a good length of time, and you will always be able to find one even in an emergency (just about every tip installer in the nation carries them). Best of all they are among the cheapest tips out there.

The sniper is also a very good tip with very similar characteristics (except that it is layered) but it is 3-6 times the price installed.

LePro's are good tips when you get a good one. For every three LePro's, one will be great, one will be usable but not like the good ones, and one will be total useless junk. Very inconsistent.

A triangle is a great all around cheap tip, and as you get better and develope more definitive preferences, if you find that it doesn't meet your needs perfectly you can always try other tips out and you have that experience with a good all around tip as a basis to compare against. Same goes for the sniper but at a much higher cost.

Perfect answer and I couldn't agree more.
 
I assume moori tips are teh best for less deflection and chalk hold

Tips have nothing to do with deflection and any tip can be made to hold chalk well (you just have to "texture" them periodically).

The only real difference between tips is consistency and "compressibility". If a tip compresses as you play with it, then it gets harder and harder, which means it plays a little differently every day. Harder tips and layered tips compress less and therefore play more consistently over their lifetime.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Tips have nothing to do with deflection and any tip can be made to hold chalk well (you just have to "texture" them periodically).

The only real difference between tips is consistency and "compressibility". If a tip compresses as you play with it, then it gets harder and harder, which means it plays a little differently every day. Harder tips and layered tips compress less and therefore play more consistently over their lifetime.

pj
chgo


i just spend a hundred dollars on some low deflection tips though
 
Josh Palmer said:
Glad you asked that question.. I have always wondered about Everest, and Sniper tips. Heard they are good, but I've always used a lepro, and just recently, elkmaster.

Charlie Edwards was nice enough to test some lepro's with a durometer, and they were the best tips I've ever used. Anyone test these unlayered tips for hardness and sell them???????

I have been playing with a Tiger Products "Everest" tip which was on the blank Predator shaft when I bought it. It played perfectly. I used it until I only had 1/16" of leather left on the tip and was waiting for my pool hall to order a pack of Everest tips and got scared so I put an Elkmaster tip in my tip compressor and squeezed the doo-doo out of it for about 5 minutes. I torqued it up something awful and had the tip installed. It played like a sponge and I lost an "important" match because of it.

I'm still waiting for the Everest tips to arrive. Cue Stix has them on BACK ORDER. :angry:

Old road warrior, Nate's in town for a visit but I'm just letting the other banger's tear him apart. :D
JoeyA
 
Moori medium if you want to spend the money, if not you cant beat a "good" Lepro.
The problem only about 15 in a box are any good.

I tried Sniper tips and had Dennis Searing install it and to me it was very loud,
you could actually hear the tip and not the sound of the cue.

As for others i have tried, i have the worlds best talisman tip ever put on a jump break cue and it has been broken with and played with for YES 4 years and still is about half there and round as a dime. Obviously this is not a normal occurrence :thumbup:
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Tips have nothing to do with deflection and any tip can be made to hold chalk well (you just have to "texture" them periodically).

The only real difference between tips is consistency and "compressibility". If a tip compresses as you play with it, then it gets harder and harder, which means it plays a little differently every day. Harder tips and layered tips compress less and therefore play more consistently over their lifetime.

pj
chgo

What Patrick says is quite accurate as usual.

In addition, (and this is just my own personal perception), I think that some people with errant strokes seem to miscue less with softer tips. Harder tips even when chalked seem to cause the crooked strokers to miscue more often.

Even though I use a rather hard tip (Everest) I also don't like the super hard tips which gloss over after a dozen shots and then don't hold chalk very well. I dislike having to shape or texture my tip every hour on the hour.

I can even live with the banshee-like screeching of chalk going on a very hard tip unless it is in the middle of my final stroke. :wink:

The very soft tips are just too spongy for me until they are used for a couple of hundred hours of play. The constant need to correct the mushrooming or to reshape the tops of the tip is a pain I can do without. The very soft tips just give me another excuse for missing. :)
JoeyA
 
Patrick Johnson said:
The hardest part is admitting to yourself that you've been had. Good for you.

pj
chgo

"HAD"???? I thought he was bragging cuz he got a good deal.... :p
 
In addition, (and this is just my own personal perception), I think that some people with errant strokes seem to miscue less with softer tips. Harder tips even when chalked seem to cause the crooked strokers to miscue more often.

I think I've noticed this too (maybe I should have mentioned it as a possible difference between tips, but I can't be sure if it's just an impression). My guess is that it has something to do with harder tips "glazing over" - I know I notice more "bald spots" when that happens...

pj
chgo
 
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