help with windows cue

desi2960

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
have a customer that wants clear windows in a cue, like some of the palmers. i bought some acrylic tube to use as the window, but it seems to chip, when i try to cut it, and i cannot sand or repolish it. would a polycarbonate tube be better ??
any suggestions as how to cut or polish the acrylic, or maybe a different material ???
 
Super sharp tooling is the key. If it melts and chips when parting off try a little slower speed and spray some water on it when parting off. Then start wet sanding it smooth starting with 220 0r 320 and go all the way down to 2000. Don't dry sand it. Then polish it just like you do clear coat. It will polish even if it takes a lot longer than finish does.
 
cueman said:
Super sharp tooling is the key. If it melts and chips when parting off try a little slower speed and spray some water on it when parting off. Then start wet sanding it smooth starting with 220 0r 320 and go all the way down to 2000. Don't dry sand it. Then polish it just like you do clear coat. It will polish even if it takes a lot longer than finish does.
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Good info - thanks for sharing.

Dale
 
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I love to collect window'ed Palmers. I don't prefer to play with them so I made my own... pretty sure I bought acrylic for it. Mine is the 2nd one from the left, if it wasn't obvious. Give me a call if you want to discuss... I have over 5' of this tube so if you want a piece, let me know. :)
 

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We use polycarbonite at work for machine guarding. It doesn't crack as easy as plexyglass. I believe the poly means higher plastic content. I know you can put a 3/16" thick sheet in a break press, bend it 90º without heat, and it will not break. I may have to get some in tube size to play with.
 
When turning plastics you want a large, sharp, radius on your tooling, never having the angle come to a sharp point. After turning and sanding to size, you can use a propane torch and lightly pass it over the plastic and all the frosting will disappear and the material will become crystal clear once again.

Dick
 
DanO said:
We use polycarbonite at work for machine guarding. It doesn't crack as easy as plexyglass. I believe the poly means higher plastic content. I know you can put a 3/16" thick sheet in a break press, bend it 90º without heat, and it will not break. I may have to get some in tube size to play with.
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You are kind of correct. "Poly" means "many" and in plastics it is refering to molecules. Plastics start out as what is called a monomer or a single molecule that is able to bind with others. When the molecule binds with another then it becomes a polymer. The amount and different kinds of combinations of monomers bound together is what gives it the different properties. Polycarbonate or trade name Lexan does just what you say. It doesn't crack like plexiglass and has a higher impact resistance. The down side to this is that it scratches easier and the clarity is not as good. The other downside is the Lexan will not polish out as nice as the Plexiglass. The reason that flaming or reheating it clears things up is because you are rearanging the molecules and changing what's called the crystallinity of the material by reducing it making it more clear.

If you are able to make it work I think you will get better results from the Plexiglass if it doesn't make you throw it against the wall first.

To cut it I would get it close to size with a tile saw or something similar. Then I would wet grind and wet sand the rest of the way. Try to keep the heat down as this will haze it. You can also use a file to get it down to a level to begin sanding. Last thought...if you only able to cut with tools that have teeth I would tape it where you are cutting it or cover it with epoxy (test piece first). Superglue might turn it white so try to stay away from that.
 
Very interesting discussion.

I would note that window cues were produced a long time ago...and likely with somewhat "low-tech" materials and methods compared with what you guys have available today.

In addition, windows were done on mass produced cues...or at least "production" cues. That being the case there must be some "low-tech" solutions to the matter I suspect. I mean, if they were cranking them out at Viking I can't imagine they would do it if it were particularly difficult.

Many of them do seem to have stood the test of time as well, so the materials must have been at least acceptable for the application. We do see some hazed over, cracked, or otherwise not well tolerating age and use...but many seem to have endured quite well for forty years or so.

I imagine once one knows how to cut and polish the particular material chosen it shouldn't be terribly difficult to reproduce good results, as long as the material is appropriate to the application.

I remember EightballJunkie did a window cue some time ago that he posted in the gallery. Maybe he can contribute?


Just the thoughts of an observer.


Very interesting discussion.




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help

I've done a few. I turn it along with the rest of the cue with a router bit.
(.005 per pass)Then wipe down with lac thinner. Sand with 400 and clean with lac thinner again. Solvent based finish turns it to clear glass.
I use acrylic tube.
http://www.delviesplastics.com/
It really is a no brainer. Just remember, the old guys didn't glue them in place. Some adhesives can craze them.
 
cueman said:
Super sharp tooling is the key. If it melts and chips when parting off try a little slower speed and spray some water on it when parting off. Then start wet sanding it smooth starting with 220 0r 320 and go all the way down to 2000. Don't dry sand it. Then polish it just like you do clear coat. It will polish even if it takes a lot longer than finish does.
Click to expand...

^^^this^^^
 
thank you thank you

i will take all info you guys gave and try it on a few different types of acrylic and polycarbonates. as i have said before
it ain't rocket science
 
desi2960 said:
i will take all info you guys gave and try it on a few different types of acrylic and polycarbonates. as i have said before
it ain't rocket science
Click to expand...

Once you work that out perhaps you can do some more. With those old blanks you have I can picture some sweet retro style conversions. Could be very cool! :) IMHO retro is "in".






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chopdoc

a titlist with windows is what i had in mind.

and a big thank you to mightycustomcue !!!!!!
 
My pleasure... hope it works for you. Let me know how you make out with it. I'm sure all of us would be interested to see the results!
 
all my new materials

i have had mightycustomcue send me a sample, and i have bought 7 different tubes of plastic, acrylic, and polys from different companys, i have bought 9 pieces of acrylic marbeized rod, i have bought a new bench grinder to sharpen different cutting tools, new cutting tools, a spray bottle, sandpaper for plastic, 2 different kits for polishing plastics.
i am waiting until everything is delivered then the expermention process will begin.
once again thanks to everyone for their tips and knowledge.
 
It will be very exciting to see the results!

Your cues certainly do have their own style. Adding this sort of retro styling to your spectrum of work really is fitting since you work with so many old blanks.

I really do think retro is in.

I look forward to seeing some pics.



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desi2960 said:
i have had mightycustomcue send me a sample, and i have bought 7 different tubes of plastic, acrylic, and polys from different companys, i have bought 9 pieces of acrylic marbeized rod, i have bought a new bench grinder to sharpen different cutting tools, new cutting tools, a spray bottle, sandpaper for plastic, 2 different kits for polishing plastics.
i am waiting until everything is delivered then the expermention process will begin.
once again thanks to everyone for their tips and knowledge.
Click to expand...

That's why making cues are soooo profitable. -LOL! I had to buy 6' of that only to use 3/4" and thanks to you, I have 6" less! Best of luck and can't wait to see how you make out.
 
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