ive been tryin to find answers to my lighting questions and i ran across this webpage, it has layout ideas, space needed, and light info yayyyyyy. Maybe someone here can use it too http://www.celebritypooltables.com/decoratingabilliardroom.htm
heres some handy info if youre building a room in your house
- Thread starter scottycoyote
- Start date
Here are some links to help design a game room (not just billiards)
Game Room Planning Template
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/GAME_PLANNER_Layout.pdf
Room Size
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/RequiredRoomSizes.pdf
Game Room Planning Grid
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/Game_Room_Planner_grid.pdf
Game Room Planning Template
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/GAME_PLANNER_Layout.pdf
Room Size
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/RequiredRoomSizes.pdf
Game Room Planning Grid
http://www.fgbradleys.com/docs/Game_Room_Planner_grid.pdf
scottycoyote said:
My favorite thing about the floorplan in that link is that the billiard room is directly across the hall from, what appears to be, the "Mistress Bedroom".
How many wives would go for that one? "But honey, it needs to be there to get the best environment to help me practice...."
On a serious note, I have designed a few game rooms and I design whole house A/V systems with full automation and lighting control, so I can help out with any questions you may have. Just shoot me a PM or email.
-Pete
Yet another bogus room size chart. The sizes allow zero back swing for balls on the cushion and shooting straight out from the rail. Add one foot to both length and width for minimum comfort, more if you want stuff in the room.
The Celebrity Pool Tables diagram looks right and allows for back swing.
I'm not sure about charts, but its pretty basic. A stick is approximately 58". Lets call it 5 feet (60") just for some extra chalk on the tip 
Shooting perpendicular to any rail with the cue ball frozen to that rail would require the tip of the cue to extend backward minimumly to the outter most part of the rail. It couldn't go much farther since your hand would no longer be butted against the rail for a bridge.
So, you need five feet around each side of a table unless you would be happy with a short stick for those rare situations. I designed my pool room area just that way. I called my 4 1/2 x 9 five by ten outside and allowed a room size of 15x20.
There are upper end cues btw, that really are balanced well and if you end up a tad short on space, fear not, they really feel and stroke well for a shot that requires one now and again. The thing is you pretty much need the majority of that five feet around the table to make your stance also.
Shooting perpendicular to any rail with the cue ball frozen to that rail would require the tip of the cue to extend backward minimumly to the outter most part of the rail. It couldn't go much farther since your hand would no longer be butted against the rail for a bridge.
So, you need five feet around each side of a table unless you would be happy with a short stick for those rare situations. I designed my pool room area just that way. I called my 4 1/2 x 9 five by ten outside and allowed a room size of 15x20.
There are upper end cues btw, that really are balanced well and if you end up a tad short on space, fear not, they really feel and stroke well for a shot that requires one now and again. The thing is you pretty much need the majority of that five feet around the table to make your stance also.
PeteW said:
If I had to guess, I would say that the person that did this floorplan is a woman.. They probably thought "Master Bedroom" was sexist, so they put in "Mistress Bedroom". Either that, or it is a dude with a sense of humor. I'm guessing it's the former, though...
Russ
