Hightower Lathe Leadscrew power feed video

John, great presentation. I had 5 (?) 7 Hightowers over the years and would have loved that set up. Reminds me a little of the Porper that has the lead screw in the middle.
 
JC said:
You said at the start of the video you were going to talk about the second block at the left end of the screw in a minute and you never did. What's it for?

Thanks,

JC
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Oh...forgot about that. I had Chris send me an extra block. I wanted to experiment with constraining the lead screw in the middle because it does sag a bit, and the straighter everything is the smoother it runs. In the end, I didn't find that it really made too much of a difference when everything was lubed and adjusted properly. I just haven't bothered to remove it because I have to slide it off past the other bushing block. Next time I do a complete teardown/cleaning (probably after I move), I'll take it off for good.
 
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the head stock comes off the left end and you are wasting your time coring with the DC motor.... it will just keep kicking the overload in the controller............

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
the head stock comes off the left end and you are wasting your time coring with the DC motor.... it will just keep kicking the overload in the controller............

Kim
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Actually, the head stock just lifts off. If you do that, then you can slide the carriage off the left side after you've removed the lead screw retaining collar and the lead screw bushing block. That was specifically included because the gentleman I made the video for asked about removing the carriage. I believe he said he removes it for some operations, and maybe even has multiple carriages that he uses.

re: coring
I've only cored a couple of things so far, and that was just experimenting. That said, moving the belt to the slowest position gives considerably more torque and it didn't seem like too much of a problem. I should also mention that I don't have the stock controller. It's beefier than the stock controller, but apparently had a poor reliability record. Chris and I talked about it, and I talked him into sticking it in there with the promise that I won't bug him if it ends up failing.
 
john coloccia said:
Actually, the head stock just lifts off. If you do that, then you can slide the carriage off the left side after you've removed the lead screw retaining collar and the lead screw bushing block. That was specifically included because the gentleman I made the video for asked about removing the carriage. I believe he said he removes it for some operations, and maybe even has multiple carriages that he uses.

re: coring
I've only cored a couple of things so far, and that was just experimenting. That said, moving the belt to the slowest position gives considerably more torque and it didn't seem like too much of a problem. I should also mention that I don't have the stock controller. It's beefier than the stock controller, but apparently had a poor reliability record. Chris and I talked about it, and I talked him into sticking it in there with the promise that I won't bug him if it ends up failing.
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You are correct.... I mis spoke...... I was saying that the carriage comes off the left end ... not the head stock............ as for coring with the DC motor ... you can move the belt to get more torque but in my experience the controller will still trip out after a minute or 2 when coring with a gun drill............ I installed a 1/2 hp AC motor 1725 RPM .... 2 in pulley for coring.......... just slide the head stock to align the pulley and put on the belt... unplug the DC motor............



 
Oh absolutely, Kim, and thanks for posting more pictures of your setup. I remember we talked about this. I didn't realize at the time that your belt was sitting in a pulley position...looked to me like it was just wrapped around the outside of the pulley and ready to slip off any second! I think I referred to it as "scary", but once I got the lathe and saw that it was a stepped pulley, it made a lot more sense. :)

So far this controller's been working out OK. I've even tapped under power with the pulley in the slow position. With the right controller, this thing's got a lot of torque. But I have my eye out locally for motors. If something drops in my lap, and eventually it will, I'll snatch it up and do exactly what you've done.
 
john coloccia said:
Oh absolutely, Kim, and thanks for posting more pictures of your setup. I remember we talked about this. I didn't realize at the time that your belt was sitting in a pulley position...looked to me like it was just wrapped around the outside of the pulley and ready to slip off any second! I think I referred to it as "scary", but once I got the lathe and saw that it was a stepped pulley, it made a lot more sense. :)

So far this controller's been working out OK. I've even tapped under power with the pulley in the slow position. With the right controller, this thing's got a lot of torque. But I have my eye out locally for motors. If something drops in my lap, and eventually it will, I'll snatch it up and do exactly what you've done.
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I recycled the AC motor that came with my Deluxe after I installed a sewing machine motor. It has plenty of power for coring and everything else.

JC
 
JC said:
I recycled the AC motor that came with my Deluxe after I installed a sewing machine motor. It has plenty of power for coring and everything else.

JC
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My AC motor was salvaged off an old Shop Smith.................. probably about 40 years old

Kim
 
I use a Penn motor, but changed the controller to a Dayton, and have done coring without a problem. I start by going all the way with a 9mm drill, then go to a .680, then depending if its a forearm or handle, go straight thru with a 3/4 or go only 9" in as I use a stepped core on a forearm. Doing the 9mm hole at the beginning allows the other drills to blow chips out the opposite side, where I have a vac hose on it, the air blows it straight thru the 9mm bore right nto the vac hose...A lot less cleanup.
The only issue is the belt that the deluxe takes will slip if I core too fast. I am thinking on changing the pulleys on the headstock and the motor to a V belt config with a power-twist belt.
Dave
 
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