Hoppe Titlist--convert it or keep it?

Bamacues

Bamacues

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I am soliciting opinions.

I acquired a Wille Hoppe Titlist cue with the intent of having Rick Phillippi do a conversion on it. I received the cue today, and it is marvelous condition, dead straight, very nice color in the points, etc. Is it better to keep a cue like this for the future, or should I follow through with what I had planned......I would like to hear both sides of the argument, and any points such as value, playability, collectibility,,,anything you can think of.
 
Follow your heart. If you can't find in your heart to convert it then enjoy it as was made. If your heart's set on a conversion then have at it. Forget the money end of it and set yourself free........
 
Bamacues said:
I am soliciting opinions.

I acquired a Wille Hoppe Titlist cue with the intent of having Rick Phillippi do a conversion on it. I received the cue today, and it is marvelous condition, dead straight, very nice color in the points, etc. Is it better to keep a cue like this for the future, or should I follow through with what I had planned......I would like to hear both sides of the argument, and any points such as value, playability, collectibility,,,anything you can think of.
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I would have to see pictures of the cue to render an opinion. If it was made in the 1940's or 1950's, has the original decals and imprint, especially a buckhorn ferrule, etc., the features that make it original and collectible, then it would be a shame to convert a cue like this. There are a lot of altered cues that are not collectible any longer that would be better candidates to convert.

I should tell you to go ahead and do it. Each collectible Hoppe that get converted make my original ones that much more valuable.

Chris
 
if i were u and...

if my hoppe has the buck horn ferrule, and/or a turtleshell/phenolic joint (worldwar era) and/or no wrap and/or 90% or more decal and/or ivory ring.

Any one of the above condition is met, i keep.

Bgrds
Raist
 
titlistsucker said:
if i were u and...

if my hoppe has the buck horn ferrule, and/or a turtleshell/phenolic joint (worldwar era) and/or no wrap and/or 90% or more decal and/or ivory ring.

Any one of the above condition is met, i keep.

Bgrds
Raist
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I put the least $$ possible into the conversion subject. An extreme example - it's much better to spend $100 on a beat-up house 1-piece Hoppe that has nice points and wood, than to spend $500 on a 2-piece that's in great shape....if the converted end result will be the same.
 
titlistsucker said:
if i were u and...

if my hoppe has the buck horn ferrule, and/or a turtleshell/phenolic joint (worldwar era) and/or no wrap and/or 90% or more decal and/or ivory ring.

Any one of the above condition is met, i keep.

Bgrds
Raist
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Raist,

I have one with the turtleshell and leather - what a fat cue that is, but it's missing the decal.

On the Willie Hoppe Professional, do you know what year they stopped making them with the iivory ring? Do you know if they ever made both versions at the same time? I am guessing around 1962 - somewhere in there, but I really am just guessing. I know some people with the no ivory Professionals who say they are made in the 1950's.

Chris
 
Thanks for all the input. Not being an expert on Titlist's I wanted your suggestions. After all is said and done, I will go through with the conversion.

My Hoppe must be a more recent cue. The butt is 28", and the points are almost dead even, it does not have the ivory ring, and it has a 5/16x18 piloted brass joint and pin. The points are relatively short ones with natural, mahogany, blue, purple veneers. I believe this will really come out nicely in the conversion. Butt and shaft are perfectly straight.

Thanks again,
Joe
 
Bamacues said:
Thanks for all the input. Not being an expert on Titlist's I wanted your suggestions. After all is said and done, I will go through with the conversion.

My Hoppe must be a more recent cue. The butt is 28", and the points are almost dead even, it does not have the ivory ring, and it has a 5/16x18 piloted brass joint and pin. The points are relatively short ones with natural, mahogany, blue, purple veneers. I believe this will really come out nicely in the conversion. Butt and shaft are perfectly straight.

Thanks again,
Joe
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Joe,

Good move - it is a more recent version, collectible but still fairly common. The colorful veneers will look terrific.

You might consider leaving the "Willie Hoppe" imprint and weight stamp on the forearm - I've seen them left on conversions and I think they look cool.

Chris
 
Bamacues said:
Thanks for all the input. Not being an expert on Titlist's I wanted your suggestions. After all is said and done, I will go through with the conversion.

My Hoppe must be a more recent cue. The butt is 28", and the points are almost dead even, it does not have the ivory ring, and it has a 5/16x18 piloted brass joint and pin. The points are relatively short ones with natural, mahogany, blue, purple veneers. I believe this will really come out nicely in the conversion. Butt and shaft are perfectly straight.

Thanks again,
Joe
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Let me just throw something out there. I paid about $100 for a beat-up 1-piece Hoppe that had salvageable points. I also paid about $300 for a sort-of beat-up 2-piece Hoppe with no ivory Hoppe ring. I have seen EX condition 2-piece Hoppes go for $500+. Both of mine were made into conversions, and the $100 one will look just as good, or better, because of the wood type/grain and the points being almost perfect. The $500 ones won't yield any better conversion results.
 
runscott said:
Let me just throw something out there. I paid about $100 for a beat-up 1-piece Hoppe that had salvageable points. I also paid about $300 for a sort-of beat-up 2-piece Hoppe with no ivory Hoppe ring. I have seen EX condition 2-piece Hoppes go for $500+. Both of mine were made into conversions, and the $100 one will look just as good, or better, because of the wood type/grain and the points being almost perfect. The $500 ones won't yield any better conversion results.
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Thanks for the input. I sort of "fell" on this one by accident. As you know, I had been considering having one made, that is why I asked you about your conversion experiences as I did some time back. I found a guy who said he had an old Hoppe cue. He did not necessarily say that it was in good/great/ or sorry state. I paid a reasonable amount for it, not a lot, not a little. I think it was fair to both of us, especially as I was taking it sight unseen. Now that I have it, it is in much better condition than I originally was led to believe. Heck, the thing plays super, if it wasn't for the fat butt. I will go see Rick tomorrow or Thursday and see what he thinks we should be able to do with it.

To all who gave advice, I truely thank you. I really appreciate it.
Joe
 
Hi Tate,

Thats a rare piece u got there... the reason why the turtleshell was used, is not becos of any option provided by Brunswick, but the fact that your cue was built probably during the WWII era, when all the copper went to the War Effort... So there arent many around me thinks..

From what i was lead to believe, the ivory ring went away towards the late 50s . This figure was culled from buyers which i bought the hoppe from. Unfortunately there isnt more info to work with when it comes to Brunswicks ..

i am pretty hazy when it comes to such historical stuff haha, i am more of a Titlist butcher* than a Titlist connoisseur**...

Bgrds
Raist


Glossary
A connoisseur (Fr. connaisseur, from conoistre, connaître meaning "to know something") is a person who has a great deal of knowledge about the fine arts, or an expert judge in matters of taste.

Butcher is also an English term used to describe a person who inflicts cuts and incisions in an unorderly manner - contrary to the surgeon-like exactness a professional butcher needs to slaughter cattle.
 
Hijacking the thread a bit...here is 2 of my ebony Brunswicks... i send them for conversions though...isnt it interesting that the screw securing the butt is different? i cant even tell which is the older one haha..

Brunswickbutt.jpg
 
One more thing about Conversions.. u can do a conversion on either a one pc Titlist, or a 2 pc titlist...

BUT .. With 2 piece Titlist, the butt is ard 28" long...There isnt much room to work with, unless u chop the forearm off, and put a maple handle under the wrap. U could still simply turn the handle down and change the joint... but the joint would be smaller in Diameter, and the points will look short, and the cuemaker cant make them more "even"..
i always like keeping the Titlist fullsplice so i dont like chopping forearms, cos i find it "pointless" doin a conversion this way (pardon the pun keke) but with a wrap actually it cant be seen.. AND ur cuearm does not know the cue it holds is Fullsplice, or Shortie Splice ...

With one pc cues..haha thats where all the flexibility comes in..Many cuemakers prefer Titlist 1 pc cues for conversion, as it allows a cut at a point where the wood is fatter, and the point is nearer to the joint. u get a nice .840 joint , plus long points. buttsleeve could be matched by a similar wood from the cuemaker inventory, and the "joining" part is hidden by a wrap.

If u prefer the "Willie Hoppe" signature ard... that places a lot of restriction on turning the cue down ... the willie hoppe print is normally more faintly imprinted than the weight no... keeping the weight no is easier haha..

haha.. i talk too much... talk to ur cuemaker and see what he suggests..

Bgrds
Raist
 
Raist, Tate, Runscott, and anyone else....please feel free to "hijack" this thread and share any experiences/knowledge that you may have or even questions as to Titlists. I have already learned a lot from the little amount of interaction in this thread. Thanks for sharing...
Joe
 
titlistsucker said:
Hijacking the thread a bit...here is 2 of my ebony Brunswicks... i send them for conversions though...isnt it interesting that the screw securing the butt is different? i cant even tell which is the older one haha..
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..continuation of slight hi-jacking :) Raist - thanks for posting these pics. Now I think my recent Titlist purchase is actually ebony, but slightly figured. I'll post a scan of my butt later :eek:

PLEASE post detailed pictures of the labels on those two Titlists - I can probably give you a good date range, even if the labels are bad. Thanks, Scott
 
runscott said:
..continuation of slight hi-jacking :) Raist - thanks for posting these pics. Now I think my recent Titlist purchase is actually ebony, but slightly figured. I'll post a scan of my butt later :eek:

PLEASE post detailed pictures of the labels on those two Titlists - I can probably give you a good date range, even if the labels are bad. Thanks, Scott
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sorry i cant cos i have sent the cues off... wow..figured ebony.. let me know if u dont want it...:)

Bgrds
Raist
 
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