how about this Cue Maker's Ultra Violet Curing System
- Thread starter Adonisy
- Start date
Adonisy said:
He probably gets them from American UltraViolet in Indiana and tacks on about $500. Do some research and you can save some money. I bought mine with a "focused beam" which is usually about $100 more but it's much more efficient if your set-up is right.
just more hot air!
Sherm
macguy said:
I have found the U.V. finish to be hard and tough and of course quick. The drawbacks, and they are major, is that the stuff doesn't stick good to phonelics without a sealer in-between. So, when applying and sanding between coats you have to make sure you don't sand thru anywhere. When sprayed on and after going pass the light the finish rolls back badly from the ends, making it difficult to match shaft to butt perfectly without sanding thru someplace. What I had the most trouble with is trying to rub it out. You just can't get the shine back that was there before rubbing.
I've tried three different U.V. finishes now and I'm not happy with any for a final finish. Bob Griffen says he has a finish that works well but I've not tried it. At present I use the U.V. finish as an in-between layer in my finishing process. I first put on a sealer, later I put on anywhere from 3 to 20 coats, sanding in between, of U.V., building the finish and completely sealing the cue. After this I put on three coats of auto urethane to complete the finish. This 3 level process makes for an excellent finish. The sealer makes for very good adhesion between cue and U.V.. The U.V. is very hard and at the same time slightly pliable so as not to crack and also not to dent. I've dropped a fully finished cue on the floor and there was not a mark on it. After the U.V. is leveled out using 320 grit I put on 3 coats of urethane waiting 45 min. between coats. The next day I buff out the urethane which only takes 6 or 7 min. and it is awsome.
If I had to do it all over again I would never have bought the U.V. system. I've probably got 23 or 2400.00 tied up in it with the different finishes I've tried an are just sitting here but since I have it I am utilizing it. It is good for building up a finish in very poris or open grained wood and it is a very good, hard base for the final finish. It comes in handy on small repairs that don't need to be rubbed out also.
Dick
> I don't know a lot about his UV system,but looked at some of his other stuff. This is an example.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cuemakers-Sandi...1212QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
> Take a good look at this sanding arbor. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and assume that is dust and chips from clean-up cuts in the threads,but looking at the pitted surface on the shoulder and the poor surface finish/tooling marks in the main body,whoever made this needs some remedial lessons on lathe operations. There are high school kids in my shop class that make better parts than this,no offense. Tommy D.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cuemakers-Sandi...1212QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
> Take a good look at this sanding arbor. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and assume that is dust and chips from clean-up cuts in the threads,but looking at the pitted surface on the shoulder and the poor surface finish/tooling marks in the main body,whoever made this needs some remedial lessons on lathe operations. There are high school kids in my shop class that make better parts than this,no offense. Tommy D.
bought one of their lathe maint. kits,,,,,,,,,,,cut them in two: SURPRISE !! ,,,the male/female ends would not match up,,,,stay away from these sellers !,,,, JMHO
Carbide bushing with a taper on two pieces, dead-on nuts/square?Jon said:Well...
For $45 (for the sanding mandrels), what are we supposed to expect?
Jon
Bought a sneaky pete that was actually a chinese cue that he signed with a Sharpie between the points like a custom. A weight bolt was installed in the rear...that was stripped so loose it came out during shipping. Caveat Emptor!
Martin
Martin
Jack Flanagan said:
uv curable
i,ve been useing uv curable clear for 3 years with great results and rubbing it out is very easy to do i can finish a cue in no time. i have had my own made and it works perfect for me alot of people that have problem just won,t take the time to change there way of shooting and rubbing the finish out they try to treat it has if its car clear and its not but each to there own i just know i,ll never go back to car clear for me its for cars not cues. madison bob
Adonisy said:
i,ve been useing uv curable clear for 3 years with great results and rubbing it out is very easy to do i can finish a cue in no time. i have had my own made and it works perfect for me alot of people that have problem just won,t take the time to change there way of shooting and rubbing the finish out they try to treat it has if its car clear and its not but each to there own i just know i,ll never go back to car clear for me its for cars not cues. madison bob