How can I increase the weight of shaft?

1

1971

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is there a substance you can wipe on a shaft to increase it's weight somewhat? Preferably a substance that's also beneficial to the wood and wouldn't discolor it too much and won't affect the way it feels after drying. I'd like to add about 1/5 oz. if possible. :confused:
 
No substance that I know of that can be wiped on. A heavier ferrule, or added weight behind a brass insert could used. I would not use a heavier ferrule though as this would also add to the squirt of the shaft.

Alan
 
1971 said:
Is there a substance you can wipe on a shaft to increase it's weight somewhat? Preferably a substance that's also beneficial to the wood and wouldn't discolor it too much and won't affect the way it feels after drying. I'd like to add about 1/5 oz. if possible. :confused:
Click to expand...

1/5 oz ???? 6 grams..... that won't even be noticeable unless you put it at the tip......... and then the question is ............

Why the hell do you what to do that.?????


Kim
 
Tape a nickel to it, the nickel is 5 grams add the tape and you should have 1/5 oz
 
1971 said:
Is there a substance you can wipe on a shaft to increase it's weight somewhat? Preferably a substance that's also beneficial to the wood and wouldn't discolor it too much and won't affect the way it feels after drying. I'd like to add about 1/5 oz. if possible. :confused:
Click to expand...

There is nothing that I'm aware of that you can rub on that increases weight. There are a few ways to increase the overall weight of the cue. Most will involve removing either the existing ferrule or joint and boring in and adding weight to compensate for the removed wood and add the 1/5 oz you desire then reinstall the ferrule or joint. Another way to experiment is to weigh some washers to get the 1/5 oz, that have a hole just large enough that will fit over the joint pin and install them between the butt and shaft. That will let you see if it's even going to be noticeable enough to have the work done to increase it permanently.
GL with this,
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
There is nothing that I'm aware of that you can rub on that increases weight. There are a few ways to increase the overall weight of the cue. Most will involve removing either the existing ferrule or joint and boring in and adding weight to compensate for the removed wood and add the 1/5 oz you desire then reinstall the ferrule or joint. Another way to experiment is to weigh some washers to get the 1/5 oz, that have a hole just large enough that will fit over the joint pin and install them between the butt and shaft. That will let you see if it's even going to be noticeable enough to have the work done to increase it permanently.
GL with this,
Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks to all who responded, it's appreciated. I've tried using lead tape at various points on the shaft and unfortunately for me the cue feels best (balance) with the lead tape affixed at the balance point of the shaft. However, It's cumbersome on those long stretch shots. I wanted to uniformly add weight to the shaft and the idea of some sort of wood preservative or oil might do the trick instead of the unsightly and awkward lead tape. I did do some research on wood preservatives and oil finishes which include Linseed and Tung oils but I think I'd be better off ordering a new shaft instead. Again, thanks to all.........
 
You can have the tenon cut off drill and tap the shaft and use enough 1/4" threaded rod to make the weight what ever you find desirable. That would do it.
 
jayman said:
You can have the tenon cut off drill and tap the shaft and use enough 1/4" threaded rod to make the weight what ever you find desirable. That would do it.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the 1/4" rod, weight wise, barely makes up the wood you remove. 5/16" is better but still only a slim gain. 3/8" rod is a better choice, but will cause more squirt or deflection also...
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Unfortunately, the 1/4" rod, weight wise, barely makes up the wood you remove. 5/16" is better but still only a slim gain. 3/8" rod is a better choice, but will cause more squirt or deflection also...
Dave
Click to expand...

True, You might be better off doing a weight bolt set up from the joint end.
 
Adding 5 grams behind the ferrule?

Ha.

Haha.

Hahahahahaha!!

Hahaha.

tee he.

Sorry.

That's a really bad idea.

With one tip of English, let me know how close you come to a table-length object ball.
The deflection is off the chart. Unplayable.

To make a shaft heavier, add weight at the joint end. The shaft will retain all it's original playing characteristics, and you will have the weight and balance you want.

I don't post much because I'd rather listen to guys with decades more experience than me address... almost anything.
But once in a while...!

Robin Snyder
 
carguy said:
Adding 5 grams behind the ferrule?

Ha.

Haha.

Hahahahahaha!!

Hahaha.

tee he.

Sorry.

That's a really bad idea.

With one tip of English, let me know how close you come to a table-length object ball.
The deflection is off the chart. Unplayable.

To make a shaft heavier, add weight at the joint end. The shaft will retain all it's original playing characteristics, and you will have the weight and balance you want.

I don't post much because I'd rather listen to guys with decades more experience than me address... almost anything.
But once in a while...!

Robin Snyder
Click to expand...
Some old shafts like Viking used to have metal ferrule tenon.
I kid you now.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Some old shafts like Viking used to have metal ferrule tenon.
I kid you now.
Click to expand...

My first cue, in the mid 60's, was a Schmelke or Japanese built Titlist. The first time the tip fell off the local cue mechanic, a retired machinist, put on a 5-32 or so metal stud and gave me 2 screw-on yellow Micarta ferrules (still have 'em). After that my game, such as it was back then, went right out the window and I could hardly make a ball, and I of course was completely baffled.


Robin Snyder
 
carguy said:
My first cue, in the mid 60's, was a Schmelke or Japanese built Titlist. The first time the tip fell off the local cue mechanic, a retired machinist, put on a 5-32 or so metal stud and gave me 2 screw-on yellow Micarta ferrules (still have 'em). After that my game, such as it was back then, went right out the window and I could hardly make a ball, and I of course was completely baffled.


Robin Snyder
Click to expand...

And world champions used to play with screw on ivory ferrules or screw on tips.
Tools sure have changed.
 
Someone on here years ago told of embedding an 8 penny nail in the front of a shaft. It had about a diamond's worth of deflection at table length. I love it!

Robin Snyder
 
Last edited:
You haven't told us what kind of joint you have. With flat-face big pin joints the back of the shaft can be "pin weighted" by a repairman or cuemaker who knows how. There are 3 methods I know of: 1) adding 2-1/2"or so of phenolic rod to the joint end of the shaft which will then need to be bored and threaded. 2) drilling and tapping beyond existing threads to glue in an allen bolt (tip: a section of a plastic straw can be utilized to keep the existing threads clean and glue free) or 3) a combined method. I have done this to my own playing cue for the purposes of maintaining a weight and balance I prefer usually after taking a shaft down adding about a tenth of an ounce. You could add a quarter ounce or possibly more if desired. Under no circumstances would I ever recommend adding any substantial to the front of the shaft as it will add to squirt and seriously compromise the accuracy than can be achieved with the cue. If you send me a PM I can recommend a well regarded and popular cuemaker/ repairman located in the center of the USA who is exceptionally good at this procedure.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440973213.271026.jpg


Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
 
Have Cuetec put a coating of whatever they use on there fiberglass shafts...lol
Or even better buy a cuetec shaft


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