I want to remove a ferrule on an old shaft and put a phenolic ferrule/tip on it.
How do I remove the ferrule... keep in mind I do not have cue repair tools.
How do I remove the ferrule... keep in mind I do not have cue repair tools.
How do I remove a ferrule?
- Thread starter bigshooter
- Start date
Bring it to someone who does is your best bet
Pretty much impossible if you don't have a lathe Bud.
Why do you feel the need for a one piece phenolic ferrule combo?
Your best bet is a phenolic ferrule with a leather break or jump tip on it.
I once thought that phenolic tips were the best thing since sliced bread but quickly changed my mind on that one.
A proper leather break tip gives you much more feeling and control.
The only exception that I might make and that is because its one that I have had experience with is a Samsara break tip.
Not sure if it is totally phenolic or what material it is made of but it is is a great breaker.
For the rest, I use either a Super Pro or a Mad Man break tip. Both leather and gets the jobs done very nicely.
Why do you feel the need for a one piece phenolic ferrule combo?
Your best bet is a phenolic ferrule with a leather break or jump tip on it.
I once thought that phenolic tips were the best thing since sliced bread but quickly changed my mind on that one.
A proper leather break tip gives you much more feeling and control.
The only exception that I might make and that is because its one that I have had experience with is a Samsara break tip.
Not sure if it is totally phenolic or what material it is made of but it is is a great breaker.
For the rest, I use either a Super Pro or a Mad Man break tip. Both leather and gets the jobs done very nicely.
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The Samsara is a leather tip and I agree, it is a great choice. Also, because it is leather, you can use it in leagues that prohibit phenolic tips.
From their website:
"The result is a 9 layer leather Samsara J/B tip that is legal in most formats."
I had to remove a broken one and replace it with a new one. You have to be careful that you don't damage the tenon.
I very carefully cut along the length of the ferrule using a Dremel tool with a small cut off wheel. The smaller diameter allowed me to get close to the end of the ferrule where it meets the shaft without damaging either the tenon or the shaft. When I was almost all the way through, I broke the rest of the ferrule off by using a screw driver to pry it apart. It came off quite easily.
Since there are different size tenons and different length ferrules, I took the shaft to the billiard supply place locally and got a ferrule to match.
Note...this requires a steady hand and does risk damage to your shaft...so I would not try it with an irreplaceable/expensive cue. But I was able to do it myself rather easily.
John
I very carefully cut along the length of the ferrule using a Dremel tool with a small cut off wheel. The smaller diameter allowed me to get close to the end of the ferrule where it meets the shaft without damaging either the tenon or the shaft. When I was almost all the way through, I broke the rest of the ferrule off by using a screw driver to pry it apart. It came off quite easily.
Since there are different size tenons and different length ferrules, I took the shaft to the billiard supply place locally and got a ferrule to match.
Note...this requires a steady hand and does risk damage to your shaft...so I would not try it with an irreplaceable/expensive cue. But I was able to do it myself rather easily.
John
Correct. Unless you have a lathe (a cue lathe; or can make cue collets for a std lathe) do not attempt to do what your intend. This IS a job for a professional.
Just for the record this is an old 'junk' shaft or I would not even be considering trying it but I think I will take everyone's advice. Leave the ferrule on it and just install a break tip. Should have been my first thought anyway... guess I was feeling ambitious.
That's amazing.
Generally speaking every ferrule out there is machined to match it's corresponding shaft...even mass produced ones. That you found the one ferrule in the universe to match that shaft is remarkable.
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Oh come now...let's be real.
All he needs is a Dremel, or a hack saw, maybe some pliers, a screwdriver and hammer.
Once it's off then he just goes to the local billiard supply place and gets a matching ferrule.
What the heck would he need a lathe for?
I read that procedure somewhere.....I read it on the internet so it has to be true.
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I have an axe... will that work?
If you want to do it your self and do not care much for the shaft, you can try this on your own risk:
1. Get a drill
2. Get a pin fitting the threads of your shaft.
3. Make a setup that lets you turn the shaft without touching the drill and shaft, and with the drill on one side you need support on the other side close to the ferrule, so the shaft will not move when you turn and work on it.
4. Use sandpaper to remove the ferrule (will take some time). Do not touch the shaft it self - protect it - be sure to only sand the ferrule
5. If the tenon is threaded, consider sanding that away too.
6. Get a ferrule. Cut it to the right size. Watch out that the side ends are level. It is important that you get the end which goes into the shaft very level, if not it will leave a gap between shaft and ferrule. The other side you can adjust after it is on the shaft.
7. Drill a hole in the ferrule with a fitting diameter to the tenon. I would suggest to make an uncapped ferrule which means that the tenon will go through the ferrule all way (you will see/ feel the top of the tenon when ferrule is on) Start with a small drill bit and use all bits (all sizes) you have until you reach right size. This is presicion work, so consider a setup for that too.
8. Glue the ferrule on using epoxy or ca glue depending on ferrule material and preferance.
9. When it is dry, put the shaft back in the drill and blend the ferrule with the shaft so they have same diameter - use sandpaper (will take some time).
10. Face off the ferrule making tenon and ferrule leveled - use sandpaper and maybe a setup to be sure the surface is completely flat and ready for a tip.
Don't forget to let the camera run when you are working
If you are careful, the risk will be limited to the tenon.
Remember to have fun, and I am sure you will learn something.
Good luck!
-Jon Birger
1. Get a drill
2. Get a pin fitting the threads of your shaft.
3. Make a setup that lets you turn the shaft without touching the drill and shaft, and with the drill on one side you need support on the other side close to the ferrule, so the shaft will not move when you turn and work on it.
4. Use sandpaper to remove the ferrule (will take some time). Do not touch the shaft it self - protect it - be sure to only sand the ferrule
5. If the tenon is threaded, consider sanding that away too.
6. Get a ferrule. Cut it to the right size. Watch out that the side ends are level. It is important that you get the end which goes into the shaft very level, if not it will leave a gap between shaft and ferrule. The other side you can adjust after it is on the shaft.
7. Drill a hole in the ferrule with a fitting diameter to the tenon. I would suggest to make an uncapped ferrule which means that the tenon will go through the ferrule all way (you will see/ feel the top of the tenon when ferrule is on) Start with a small drill bit and use all bits (all sizes) you have until you reach right size. This is presicion work, so consider a setup for that too.
8. Glue the ferrule on using epoxy or ca glue depending on ferrule material and preferance.
9. When it is dry, put the shaft back in the drill and blend the ferrule with the shaft so they have same diameter - use sandpaper (will take some time).
10. Face off the ferrule making tenon and ferrule leveled - use sandpaper and maybe a setup to be sure the surface is completely flat and ready for a tip.
Don't forget to let the camera run when you are working
If you are careful, the risk will be limited to the tenon.
Remember to have fun, and I am sure you will learn something.
Good luck!
-Jon Birger
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In my experience a chain saw works quite well. I've used several, but my over all favorite is the Echo 559 Woodsmaster. It produces a very fine cut with fewer chips.
A strong vise is always a necessity. I use a Sears model 34. I picked it up at a yard sale for a very reasonable price.
After the old ferrule comes off you'll need to clean up the tenon a bit. I use a file for that. Preferably a rat bastard, and not one of those round mother f**kers.
With the new ferrule fitted to the old tenon you will want to glue it in place. My favorite is shoe glue. You can purchase that at your local shoe repair store, or make your own. If you make your own be sure and check in with the nearest ASPCA office because you'll need to kill a horse to make the glue.
After the glue has set, trim the ferrule on a bench grinder. I have a Jet model 19 that does a bang up job for that.
All that's left is the tip. I like the Moori III mediums, but a piece of leather out of an old belt will work as well.
I hope these tips have helped. Good luck, and say hi to the folks at the emergency room.
Your friend, Tramp. :smile:
A strong vise is always a necessity. I use a Sears model 34. I picked it up at a yard sale for a very reasonable price.
After the old ferrule comes off you'll need to clean up the tenon a bit. I use a file for that. Preferably a rat bastard, and not one of those round mother f**kers.
With the new ferrule fitted to the old tenon you will want to glue it in place. My favorite is shoe glue. You can purchase that at your local shoe repair store, or make your own. If you make your own be sure and check in with the nearest ASPCA office because you'll need to kill a horse to make the glue.
After the glue has set, trim the ferrule on a bench grinder. I have a Jet model 19 that does a bang up job for that.
All that's left is the tip. I like the Moori III mediums, but a piece of leather out of an old belt will work as well.
I hope these tips have helped. Good luck, and say hi to the folks at the emergency room.
Your friend, Tramp. :smile:
Finally, someone as twisted as me. :grin:
I prefer Stihl:
EDIT: If there is any blood in your chainsaw chain I advise using a fresh chain. In my experience it's just darn difficult and time consuming to get all the blood out of a chainsaw chain and I really wouldn't want to stain a nice new ferrule. You can always switch the chain back for your regular work and keep the clean chain for your ferrule work.
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I read some random guys advice on the internet that you should stick the end of the cue shaft in boiling water softening the glue and it will come right off.
I don't think I'll be doing that.
I don't think I'll be doing that.
I prefer Stihl:
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An excellent choice.
My Echo 559 works well, but tends to sling a little oil, and it gets all over me.
I thought that extra oil might be of some benefit when out with my girlfriend, but it wasn't. She sent me a text message, the morning after, saying that I rubbed her the wrong way. :smile:
you guys quit goofing around
now listen, take the shaft out to the garage, take a hammer and put the ferrule on the top of a vise, gently tap on the side of the ferrule as you turn the shaft, you might have to go around 4 -5 time until you brake the glue loose. then put the ferrule in the vise, clamp down real tight, then simply grab the shaft and unscrew the ferrule.
if you do not have a vice, a pair of vicegrips and the wife will also work.
but remem,ber to twist real hard
now listen, take the shaft out to the garage, take a hammer and put the ferrule on the top of a vise, gently tap on the side of the ferrule as you turn the shaft, you might have to go around 4 -5 time until you brake the glue loose. then put the ferrule in the vise, clamp down real tight, then simply grab the shaft and unscrew the ferrule.
if you do not have a vice, a pair of vicegrips and the wife will also work.
but remem,ber to twist real hard
