How Do You Keep Moori III Tips On?

TWOFORPOOL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A local cuemaker (who's in the blue book) is having trouble keeping Moori III tips on. He dosen't have any trouble with any other tips staying on.

I was told by a billiard supplier that with Moori III tips you sand very little on th glue side to keep them on.

Anybody else have problems with Moori III tips coming off? Any suggestions to keeping them on?

Thank you for any help.

Sincerely,

twoforpool@comcast.net
 
Theres several ways, Joeys is very acceptable. The biggest thing, use a gel type superglue, and you will have to use more than you would think. The tip absorbs alot of it.
Notice the dark ring next to the ferrule, that is from the tip absorbing glue.
mooriinstalled.jpg

Chuck
 
TWOFORPOOL said:
A local cuemaker (who's in the blue book) is having trouble keeping Moori III tips on. He dosen't have any trouble with any other tips staying on.

I was told by a billiard supplier that with Moori III tips you sand very little on th glue side to keep them on.

Anybody else have problems with Moori III tips coming off? Any suggestions to keeping them on?

Thank you for any help.

Sincerely,

twoforpool@comcast.net

The one and only superglue that I have ever had success with is the "surerglue profesional" I have retipped as many cues as any one more or less. I buy sell trade colect, and take care of 2 bars bar cues as well as pool teams, friends, and friends of friends. I always used epoxy because super glue just sucked! I have done 75 or 80 with 0 failiers now using the sg pro. including maybe 25 or so moori III tips. I sugeest avoiding the gels! they were the worst in experience.
 
jayman said:
The one and only superglue that I have ever had success with is the "surerglue profesional" I have retipped as many cues as any one more or less. I buy sell trade colect, and take care of 2 bars bar cues as well as pool teams, friends, and friends of friends. I always used epoxy because super glue just sucked! I have done 75 or 80 with 0 failiers now using the sg pro. including maybe 25 or so moori III tips. I sugeest avoiding the gels! they were the worst in experience.
Hey Jay Put a hard Wb tip on that cue you sold me and MAN what a difference !!! FYI the joint was fiber and not plastic . Still not sure who made it . Maybe Lancaster Bill
 
wjpjr said:
Hey Jay Put a hard Wb tip on that cue you sold me and MAN what a difference !!! FYI the joint was fiber and not plastic . Still not sure who made it . Maybe Lancaster Bill

Bill,
I am not surprised to find out that it was actualy fiber and not plastic, considering the high quality feel of the whole thing! I would just love to know who did make it.

Enjoy, Jay.
 
jayman said:
The one and only superglue that I have ever had success with is the "surerglue profesional" I have retipped as many cues as any one more or less. I buy sell trade colect, and take care of 2 bars bar cues as well as pool teams, friends, and friends of friends. I always used epoxy because super glue just sucked! I have done 75 or 80 with 0 failiers now using the sg pro. including maybe 25 or so moori III tips. I sugeest avoiding the gels! they were the worst in experience.

Wow! Your technique must be different than others. I put on between 2000 and 2500 tips a year and probably have less than 10 come off and most of them are the phenolic b/j tips. Loctite 454 gel is what I use. It is both expensive and hard to find but it works great. There must be moisture available for super type glues to work. I always put the tip close to my mouth and breath heavily around six breaths onto the bottom of the tip to insure sufficient moisture in the leather. Moori's must be dryer than most other tips as I have found that I must actually make the bottoms of them wet to properly adhere. I lick the bottom and then dry them with a paper towel and stick them on. I haven't installed many Moori tips over the years but of the four or five hundred that I have I have never had one come off using this method and glue.

Dick
 
For the correct way to install Moori's and have zero issues with them popping off...search the cuemaker section for the Dennis Searing method. I use it on all tips now...and never had one single problem.
 
rhncue said:
Wow! Your technique must be different than others. I put on between 2000 and 2500 tips a year and probably have less than 10 come off and most of them are the phenolic b/j tips. Loctite 454 gel is what I use. It is both expensive and hard to find but it works great. There must be moisture available for super type glues to work. I always put the tip close to my mouth and breath heavily around six breaths onto the bottom of the tip to insure sufficient moisture in the leather. Moori's must be dryer than most other tips as I have found that I must actually make the bottoms of them wet to properly adhere. I lick the bottom and then dry them with a paper towel and stick them on. I haven't installed many Moori tips over the years but of the four or five hundred that I have I have never had one come off using this method and glue.

Dick
Dick,
I have no issue at all with them coming off. But when I tried regular old superglue and superglue gel,(not the profesional), I could pop them off with my thumb. So I continued to use two part epoxie. Then when they came out with the pro sg. I gave it a try, and its fast and strong as hell! locktite 454 is good stuff as well, but costs more and is no better in my opinion. I used it for all kinds of things when I was in the automotive repair and restoration biz, But it got so hard to find for a while. In fact I was told they quit making it, Then brought it back after a lot of complaints. as far as gluing a tip onto a shaft, there aint much to it, mostly common sense, and good glue works every time.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Coat the bottom with superglue and let it dry.
I coat Moori III tips with super glue gel and then let them dry and lightly sand them smooth after they dry and then apply more super glue gel and install the tip normally. I've had no problem with Moori tips coming off with this method. The tips do absorb glue so the extra step of putting glue on and letting it dry seems to solve the problem.
 
jayman said:
Dick,
I have no issue at all with them coming off. But when I tried regular old superglue and superglue gel,(not the profesional), I could pop them off with my thumb. So I continued to use two part epoxie. Then when they came out with the pro sg. I gave it a try, and its fast and strong as hell! locktite 454 is good stuff as well, but costs more and is no better in my opinion. I used it for all kinds of things when I was in the automotive repair and restoration biz, But it got so hard to find for a while. In fact I was told they quit making it, Then brought it back after a lot of complaints. as far as gluing a tip onto a shaft, there aint much to it, mostly common sense, and good glue works every time.
If you don't mind the 2-mniute wait, Loctite 409 is almost as good.
The one thing that separates 454 is that is adheres great between two different surfaces. The only problem with 454 is it gets hard fast so you better not get it on the ferrule.
 
Wetting the bottom of the tip helps quite a bit also. I sand the bottom of the tip, apply gel super glue to ferrule, "lick" the bottom of the tip, dab on shirt then press on to glued ferrule. I "swirl" the tip on the ferrule until it no longer moves and is bonded to the ferrule.
 
OK this is another fail proof tip install how to ??
get any med.thickness CA Glue (satellite city green bootle or generic CA Gel type glue) and also the spray accelarator put a very small drop on back of tip and spray accelrator on ferrule and quickly and carefully put tip on ferrule it will be dry in 3-5 seconds and you can't rip it off.

The only bad thing is if you miss when you go to press the tip on, what I mean is get it off center your srewed cut it off and try again.

Not to mention don't get it on you fingers they will stick to..

This is for experts but it works evertime and is very quick no waiting at all you can trim and finish tip out in seconds after appling I always let them set for at least 30 seconds to a minute but never had a problem with any tips includeing Morri III 's
 
SCCues said:
I coat Moori III tips with super glue gel and then let them dry and lightly sand them smooth after they dry and then apply more super glue gel and install the tip normally. I've had no problem with Moori tips coming off with this method. The tips do absorb glue so the extra step of putting glue on and letting it dry seems to solve the problem.

Pretty much the Searing method...except he does the same to the ferrule face as well. Kind of primes both surfaces before gluing with ca gel.
 
JoeyInCali said:
If you don't mind the 2-mniute wait, Loctite 409 is almost as good.
The one thing that separates 454 is that is adheres great between two different surfaces. The only problem with 454 is it gets hard fast so you better not get it on the ferrule.
Do you have a trick for not getting it on the ferrule? I had the stuff melt the ferrule on a un-named cuemakers soft ferrule right behind the tip. I have always just wiped it off the ferrule right after applying pressure to the tip. I have never been able to keep glue completely off the ferrule.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
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