How Do You Prevent Collets From Marking Up Finish

T

Tony Zinzola

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I had some newly finished cues I was doing wraps on yesterday, so I Had to turn them in the lathe with the butt end in the headstock so my cutter ran on my taper bar. Each one had some small scratches in the finish when I was done, which I had to sand at 1500-2000 and rebuff to correct.

Any suggestions on how to prevent this would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Finish was all on by Thursday. PPG Finish. Starting doing wraps Monday. Very minor scratches, but still involved cleaning them up.
 
Cut the wrap area before you finish. Why would you leave that section unfinshed? Still has to be sealed. Or just turn off of the pin.
 
Do you make your collets? I use a set for finished cues only. Place them in a zip lock bag after use. Sounds like your finish was cured so check your collets for scratches.
 
RocketQ said:
Cut the wrap area before you finish. Why would you leave that section unfinshed? Still has to be sealed. Or just turn off of the pin.
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Exactly...always cut your wrap groove first...before any kind of finishing...
 
It was cut first, but needed to be a bit deeper and I had to clean up the edges. I turned on the butt because my taper bar runs that way.
 
I cut mine after finishing. I clamp on the wrap area and support the cue from the pin or buttsleeve when turning. I seal the wrap area after. I never touch the finish after polishing.
Call me when you get a chance and I will discuss how I do mine. Chris.
 
Collets

JoeyInCali said:
Long teflon collet with slits between the jaws .
Click to expand...

I would also include to taper them and keep the ID clean. You can get teflon in 1 1/2" diam from McMasters.

Bob Flynn
www.denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.
 
Do you thread your bumpers in? If so make a center that threads into the bumper end. Or spur drive..
 
I always square my wrap groove on the lathe after the finish has been applied. In this way it is the proper depth so that the wrap is flush with the surface. I hate it if you can feel where the wrap starts and the wood stops - poor workmanship.
I also use a PPG product and although it hardens quickly it still takes a finish weeks, if not months, to fully cure and harden. When I cut mine I also get these light marks but have found that they easily go away when I run the buffer over the cue for the last time after the wrap installation and clean-up.

Dick
 
I make my collets from delrin. I bore them with the same taper as my cues, and give them a shiny smooth bore. They fit on nice & tight without marring or scratching.
 
Craig Fales said:
Exactly...always cut your wrap groove first...before any kind of finishing...
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How do you know how thick the finish will be at the wrap groove edge?

I cut the wrap groove before I finish but I always need to go back and re-cut the edges to the correct depth AFTER the finish is sprayed on and set up.
I use masking tape AND a thin delrin collet to protect the finish where the lathe jaws hold the cue.
 
rhncue said:
I always square my wrap groove on the lathe after the finish has been applied. In this way it is the proper depth so that the wrap is flush with the surface. I hate it if you can feel where the wrap starts and the wood stops - poor workmanship.
Dick
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Dick, how do you protect the finish right at the edge of the wrap when you are pressing the linen? I have always had a problem with slipping up and maring the finish with the pressing tool.

I normaly leave the linen up one or two thousands above the cue so if I slip a bit at the edge the press does not touch the finish.
 
WilleeCue said:
Dick, how do you protect the finish right at the edge of the wrap when you are pressing the linen? I have always had a problem with slipping up and maring the finish with the pressing tool.

I normaly leave the linen up one or two thousands above the cue so if I slip a bit at the edge the press does not touch the finish.
Click to expand...

I press my wraps twice. On the first press I have electrical tape at the very edges of the groove and I run up onto the tape. On the second press I run up onto the finish slightly but I release almost all of the pressure on the linen press so as not to generate much heat. If the finish should lift a little then I know the sealer wasn't working as it should and I refinish the entire cue. This is why I'm so finicky on what sealer I will use. Another thing is that when I wrap, I don't push tightly up against the ends of the groove as this leaves no room for the linen to flatten any. It takes a little trial and error to get the right feel as how closely to get to the end to work properly.

Dick

Dick
 
WilleeCue said:
How do you know how thick the finish will be at the wrap groove edge?

I cut the wrap groove before I finish but I always need to go back and re-cut the edges to the correct depth AFTER the finish is sprayed on and set up.
I use masking tape AND a thin delrin collet to protect the finish where the lathe jaws hold the cue.
Click to expand...
We're not talking about splitting hairs here...you can work a wrap somewhat to be flush with the rest of the cue...if you do your finish the same everytime you should have good consistency...
 
scratches from colletts

Tony Zinzola said:
I had some newly finished cues I was doing wraps on yesterday, so I Had to turn them in the lathe with the butt end in the headstock so my cutter ran on my taper bar. Each one had some small scratches in the finish when I was done, which I had to sand at 1500-2000 and rebuff to correct.

Any suggestions on how to prevent this would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Cut some card stock and make it like a 1 time sleeve. We do this to hold components that can not be marked at all. Also the card will hold the part better.
Neil
 
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