How far can you draw?

If I have the tip of my cue in excellent condition (recently scuffed with a sandpaper shaper) and my tip is well chalked (nice even coating all over the tip, especially the sides, hold it up to light and no dark spots)....

[I always keep my tip in excellent condition and chalk well...]

...And I stroke with a very long follow through leaving my tip about a foot and a half past where the cue ball was (in other words, TONS of follow through)...

And I don't use too much speed...

And I hit the ball in the corner dead on (not left or right side of ball)...

Then I can draw the cue ball the length of the table.

Tip condition very important. Chalk around sides of tip very important. Follow through very important. (And don't "kill" the ball with too much speed, slow down!)
 
crappoolguy said:
The cloth looks EXTREMLY old, but for some reason plays very fast (this is on a Brunswick GC). The balls are also pretty old and crappy looking (chips, permanent marks, the lot!) and it was done with a house cue with a 13mm tip which is a little large for me. I can't wait to get my Z2! :)
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That z2 is going to take some getting used to. old cloth sometimes plays fast because all the dirt kind of glasses the cloth over (yeah i play on really crap equipment)

i'd try the 314-2 before the z2. going from 13mm to 11.75 is a huge jump. i changed from 12.75 ish to 12.5 and it took some real adjustments
 
poolplayer2093 said:
That z2 is going to take some getting used to. old cloth sometimes plays fast because all the dirt kind of glasses the cloth over (yeah i play on really crap equipment)

i'd try the 314-2 before the z2. going from 13mm to 11.75 is a huge jump. i changed from 12.75 ish to 12.5 and it took some real adjustments
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I spend most of my time playing snooker with a 9.75mm tip, and a 13mm feels MASSIVE and really clumsy. Plus my family is pretty bad for money right now and we can only afford to get either the Z-2 or the 314-2. And I DESPSISE playing with large tips so I think it has to be the Z2. :)
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
It really depends on how big a crayon I have but I know I can draw more than the length of the poolroom.
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dood, they're talking bout white balls here. 450' isn't all that uncommon if intoxicated me is hitting. average however stays around 5 to 10 tables toxic or not.
 
Gregg said:
The real skill is controlling a draw shot. Now that takes talent.
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Absolutely! How far can you draw the ball isn't a relevent question. How well can you control how far you draw the ball...now THAT is a good question.
Steve
 
pooltchr said:
Absolutely! How far can you draw the ball isn't a relevent question. How well can you control how far you draw the ball...now THAT is a good question.
Steve
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I know how much control you have over the draw is a lot more important than how far you can draw, I just wanted to see how my stroke compared to the experianced players of AZ.
 
crappoolguy said:
I know how much control you have over the draw is a lot more important than how far you can draw, I just wanted to see how my stroke compared to the experianced players of AZ.
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That's fine...but I've seen players with terrible strokes who could draw the length of the table. The ones who control it best are usually the ones with the best strokes.
Steve
 
Varney Cues said:
How about 2 full table length's and then some?:eek:
Not me...Larry Nevel. Like Grady say's..."he's got a stoke thats not even due out until the year 2010!":D
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LOLz...I've seen him stroke the bejeesus outta the ball before...
 
av84fun said:
On a 9' table? That's 12 diamonds of draw (actually a little more since the CB is traveling on a diagonal...with a an original 7 diamond spearation between CB and OB.

WOW...that's a championship draw stroke...congratulations!

Regards,
Jim
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I get a bigger woody when I connect with a nice force follow shot down the long rail and snap the CB around to where it was to begin with...
 
Patrick Johnson said:
It's the magician, not the wand. No cue draws farther or produces more spin than any other.

pj
chgo
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I fully agree that the player's stroke is by far the most significant variable but other than that, I disagree.

The most significant stroke variables are accurate tip-to-ball delivery, speed and the related aspect of acceleration at the point of impact More speed/acceration, more spin all other things being equal.

The weight and balance of the cue are meaningful factors in a given player's ability to generate cue tip speed/acceleration.

In addition, if the definition of "cue" includes the tip that is on it, then there would be a MAJOR difference between cues depending on hardness and shape variables.

So, yes, it is mostly the magician but the wand is a SIGNIFICANT variable and they are not nearly all the same.

Regards,
Jim
 
I just tried a power draw shot 10 minutes ago.

I'll post back as soon as the cue ball stops rolling.
 
3andstop said:
I just tried a power draw shot 10 minutes ago.

I'll post back as soon as the cue ball stops rolling.
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COOL!!! And when I get a chance, I'll tell ya about the time I knocked Evander out in the 3rd round back in.....................................

(-:
 
billiards as it should be played

Don't stroke harder than is neccessary to produce the desired result and bring the balls to a good position for the next shot. General hard stroking is sometimes followed by good leaves,but is usually luck. Remember too, that it is more difficult to strike the cue ball accurately when you use a hard stroke. Kim's Davenports target pool is good practice. Learn how to draw the ball never going below 1 cue tip below centerball. Artistic Billiards has a (guiness book of records for showing length of draw). In billiards play draw shots at ever opportunity. It is the most important shot in billiards.(not pool) mark
 
eum.. yea, sumthing like that, or the other way around, or above it, or below it. east or west could possibly work, i think? or not. hope this helps.

(kim is good though)
 
Not the set up you are talking about. Plus I never saw it. I once heard Keither could draw a ball 7 rails on a bar box.:eek:
I'm not figuring it was the Big ball though
 
I'm a draw player. I'd much rather draw for position than follow. What really helped me with letting my stroke out was not the type of shaft. It was the tip. I switched to Snipers. They are soft and spongy for the first day of two, then they're magic. I like them a lot better than Moori or Kamui tips. I can draw about 15 feet now.
 
atthecat said:
I'm a draw player. I can draw about 15 feet now.
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i draw 420 feet minimum all the time.

regardless, isn't it more interesting to know width rather than length? it's like high jump where everybody tries to jump high.. try jump wide instead..
 
atthecat said:
I'm a draw player. I'd much rather draw for position than follow.
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Personally I find follow with light outside english gives the most predictable cue ball lines of any shot at least it does for me. too much can go wrong with a draw shot I only shoot them when I have to, or when I end up dead straight and have a leave.
 
av84fun said:
I fully agree that the player's stroke is by far the most significant variable but other than that, I disagree.

The most significant stroke variables are accurate tip-to-ball delivery, speed and the related aspect of acceleration at the point of impact More speed/acceration, more spin all other things being equal.

The weight and balance of the cue are meaningful factors in a given player's ability to generate cue tip speed/acceleration.

In addition, if the definition of "cue" includes the tip that is on it, then there would be a MAJOR difference between cues depending on hardness and shape variables.

So, yes, it is mostly the magician but the wand is a SIGNIFICANT variable and they are not nearly all the same.

Regards,
Jim
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I agree. it's like sayin' who's the player who can maximize or use the full potential of the cue's drawing power, if we were to use player by cue analysis. I think this is a nice thesis, IMO. :rolleyes:
 
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