Tell us what he does wrong glen ol buddy ol pal!
I plan on getting one soon and it'll probably need new cloth
And im a diyer
How level is "level" for pool tables?
- Thread starter jviss
- Start date
Tell us what he does wrong glen ol buddy ol pal!
I plan on getting one soon and it'll probably need new cloth
And im a diyer
Post some pictures some time of a GC1 with real slate, make sure you get a close up of the grind marks, and make sure there's no black lines running across the surface from sticker boards used to separate the pieces.
First of all, you don't need to move the slate to the end of the table, crosswise to install the cloth. You place 2×4's across side to side and place 4×4's on the center of them, which is used to support the slate straight up out of the cabinet, leaving room to work on the slate l the way around. Second, you don't spray glue the other on. Third, you don't clean the glue off the slate that way, forth, you don't staple the entire cloth on the rails.
The videos will also show everyone how to set the depth of the slate in the cabinet so that there's no gap between the slate and the bottom of the rails, or the rails sticking up over the formica on the top of the rails.
I'm finishing making the cloth install videos this week, then they'll be released to the public for free to everyone on the net, as well as on the website of everyone you buy cloth from, Diamond too.
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I agree that if he's just looking at a beam the accuracy will suffer, but some laser leveling systems can do a lot better:
The L-740's continuously rotating laser plane is flat to 1/2 an arc second (0.00003"/ft or 0.0025 mm/M) in a 360º sweep and 1/4 arc sec in a 90º sweep (0.000015"/ft or 0.001 mm/M).
It has a working range of 100 feet. The sensors have a resolution of 0.0001 inch.
https://www.hamarlaser.com/index.php/systems/ultra-series/l740.html?id=110
Might be overkill on Valley tables.:smile:
I could post a dozen pictures, and you would disagree every time. It's been done before. I have seen people post photos of an obvious slate table, only for you to insist that it is Brunstone. If you do concede that it may actually be slate, you insist that someone must have changed it out. You tell everyone the lie that only Brunstone was offered from the 50's through the 70's. All Gold Crown I's, II's, and early III's had Brunstone.... That is absolutely incorrect.
Posting photos will only serve to create an argument. I know which is which. For you to insist that I can't see the obvious difference, frankly, pisses me off. We have had this argument before. But I'm not going to entertain it again.
I have two slate Gold Crown I's in my shop right now. When I get around to setting them up, maybe I will consider snapping some photos..
We can agree to disagree, that's fine with me. I just finished rebuilding and setting up an original GC1 last week, in fact it was a 61'-63' GC1. Plastic name plate, non-adjustable feet, long extruded rail mouldings and all, and yep, Brunstone and all, right along with the black sticker board lines running across the playing surface and all, raised up as well. And yep, of course just like all the Brunstone I've ever worked on, the side rail bolt holes drilled through the playing surface, didn't line up where they were suppose to so the side rails could be centered on the side pockets. Ever check the rail bolt holes for centering? I check them on EVERY GC, because they're never correct.
No, the rail cap is mounted permanently to the cabinet body panels, and the slate is undersized, the rail bolts don't go through the slate.
Now, a question for you. If the slates are leveled to the point that no balls roll off....what difference does it make as to how EXACT level the playing surface is?
My point for asking is like buying stereo speakers. The range of human hearing is from 20Hz - 20kHz, and that is the range of sound Klipsch speakers play back, but when Pioneer advertises their new speakers, claiming the sound reproduced is between 5Hz-50kHz....does that make the pioneer speakers a better buy?
It might make it a better buy. Not on the high frequency because human hearing (if young) actually starts to roll off at about 17k. On the low end under about 60Hz you only start to feel the rumble and no longer hear it.
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Now, what about the question I asked when it comes to the level of a pool table if the balls don't roll off?
Anything worth doing is worth doing until your friends and relatives cry out in frustration and despair and pray for an end to the madness.:thumbup:
But of course pool slates are usually not smooth to a ten thousandth and how about the joints?
Carpenters vs. Machinists
So, I received my Starrett 98-8 in the mail yesterday. Very nice, used, older one - looks like it was hardly used, still in the box.
I wasn't happy with the installation of my Gold Crown; long story, I may share a review of the experience. One sore point is that the only level they had was a Milwaukee 24" carpenter's level, like this:
I asked about a machinist's level, and was dismissed.
I just checked, and would you believe it, this table is level to within 0.005"/ft., all over. ("Within" meaning to less than 0.005"/foot off level.) I'm shocked.
So, the answer to the question, "can you adequately level a pool table with a carpenter's level" is "yes." (Unless, of course, you believe they just got lucky.)
Is it level enough? I think so. As far as I can tell it's off by a maximum of 0.004" or so in places, most places pretty close to dead-nuts on, reading the 98-8. I don't see any funny roll-off with balls going in any direction. (But then, I'm not an experienced observer of this.)
So, I received my Starrett 98-8 in the mail yesterday. Very nice, used, older one - looks like it was hardly used, still in the box.
I wasn't happy with the installation of my Gold Crown; long story, I may share a review of the experience. One sore point is that the only level they had was a Milwaukee 24" carpenter's level, like this:
I asked about a machinist's level, and was dismissed.
I just checked, and would you believe it, this table is level to within 0.005"/ft., all over. ("Within" meaning to less than 0.005"/foot off level.) I'm shocked.
So, the answer to the question, "can you adequately level a pool table with a carpenter's level" is "yes." (Unless, of course, you believe they just got lucky.)
Is it level enough? I think so. As far as I can tell it's off by a maximum of 0.004" or so in places, most places pretty close to dead-nuts on, reading the 98-8. I don't see any funny roll-off with balls going in any direction. (But then, I'm not an experienced observer of this.)
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So, I received my Starrett 98-8 in the mail yesterday. Very nice, used, older one - looks like it was hardly used, still in the box.
I wasn't happy with the installation of my Gold Crown; long story, I may share a review of the experience. One sore point is that the only level they had was a Milwaukee 24" carpenter's level, like this:
I asked about a machinist's level, and was dismissed.
I just checked, and would you believe it, this table is level to within 0.005"/ft., all over. ("Within" meaning to less than 0.005"/foot off level.) I'm shocked.
So, the answer to the question, "can you adequately level a pool table with a carpenter's level" is "yes." (Unless, of course, you believe they just got lucky.)
Is it level enough? I think so. As far as I can tell it's off by a maximum of 0.004" or so in places, most places pretty close to dead-nuts on, reading the 98-8. I don't see any funny roll-off with balls going in any direction. (But then, I'm not an experienced observer of this.)
Did you calibrate your starrett before you took measurements?
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Yes, I did - I meant to mention that in the post. It's interesting, since the bubble size will vary with temperature, it's not trivial to read. In the picIi attached it's indicating just about 0.005" off. Imagine if the bubble in the pic was moved to the left about one division, so its ends wrap around the graduations that are just inside the major graduations - that would be level, "0."
So, I received my Starrett 98-8 in the mail yesterday. Very nice, used, older one - looks like it was hardly used, still in the box.
I wasn't happy with the installation of my Gold Crown; long story, I may share a review of the experience. One sore point is that the only level they had was a Milwaukee 24" carpenter's level, like this:
I asked about a machinist's level, and was dismissed.
I just checked, and would you believe it, this table is level to within 0.005"/ft., all over. ("Within" meaning to less than 0.005"/foot off level.) I'm shocked.
So, the answer to the question, "can you adequately level a pool table with a carpenter's level" is "yes." (Unless, of course, you believe they just got lucky.)
Is it level enough? I think so. As far as I can tell it's off by a maximum of 0.004" or so in places, most places pretty close to dead-nuts on, reading the 98-8. I don't see any funny roll-off with balls going in any direction. (But then, I'm not an experienced observer of this.)
I’ve been impressed with some table mechanics that have leveled my table with multiple machinist’s levels. I’ve also been equally impressed with how precise another mechanic was able to get a table level solely by rolling balls and making adjustments.
I think the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
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Place your level running straight into the pockets, all 6 and see if the read the same level.