How much does shaft weight effect the playability of a shaft !!!!!!

[MVPCues]

Let's stir the pot a bit...I haven't used Nelsonite in years but how does that fit into this conversation? If you have a shaft that's been cooked to death in a kiln and is...let's say barely 3 oz, and is soaked in the tank...how much does Nelsonite add to the shafts weight? And is it now a keeper? How does it play now?

Mark Bear

Dzuricky started some experiments testing this once. He weighed some shafts pre dipping, and then post dipping over time to see how the weight changed. IIRC, weight was certainly added, then reduced over time I think. I am not sure if he ever finished his experiments or came to any summary conclusions.

Kelly

 

[poolplayer2093]

I put on a tournament and Bob came with his cues. That was around 1975. We sold a bunch of cues at the tournament. The problem was, things began to break on them. The biggest problem was ferrules cracking. When I called Bob about it he said they would fix them no problem but he also said he had a different outlook about cue ferrules. He saw them as expendable and if they break so be it. His had a very thin wall and were drilled all the way through and weighed almost nothing. The fact was though, a ferrule like this may break. Most important though to Meucci was how the cue played. He would rather replace a ferrule then compromise the play of the cue. I feel the same way. It is very rare I have a ferrule break but I would never use a capped slug of a ferrule on any shaft I make. I like a thin walled uncapped ferrule. Technically Bob Meucci was right about most everything he did on his cues and time has proven him right. I have to say though, I never did get why the finish over the wrap.

i don't really agree with his logic. if someone was playing with one of his cues and the ferrule breaks how well can the cue play after that. what if it happens to both shafts during a tournament or gambling. then he's screwed.

he was on the right track though (some might say)

 

[macguy]

i don't really agree with his logic. if someone was playing with one of his cues and the ferrule breaks how well can the cue play after that. what if it happens to both shafts during a tournament or gambling. then he's screwed.

he was on the right track though (some might say)

The logic is the argument for the thin uncapped ferrule. A ferrule like a tip is an easily replaced part of the cue and essentially expendable. They should not break though. I think they solved much of that over the years with new materials. I can see some logic though with an analogy of say, a tip that never wares out or needs replacing but doesn't play very well. It would be a wrong placement of priorities.

 

[hotrod]

I think people make too much emphasis over the heavier shafts. Straight grained and at least 10 growth rings works for me. Like weight between 3.8 to 4.1. Ugly old brown colored shafts do seem to have a nice hit also. Bottom line if you can play you can adjust easily if you have a quality shaft to start with. Heavier shafts will not take your game to the next level. Time on the table is the only cure. Sounds like you picked up some quality shafts. You should be pleased.

 

[JoeyInCali]

The logic is the argument for the thin uncapped ferrule. A ferrule like a tip is an easily replaced part of the cue and essentially expendable. They should not break though. I think they solved much of that over the years with new materials. I can see some logic though with an analogy of say, a tip that never wares out or needs replacing but doesn't play very well. It would be a wrong placement of priorities.

It's gotten worse I think.