Every professional golfer that has changed equipment (brand) has struggled immediately thereafter the next season & often persists much longer before they can regain their game......Every single golfer including Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus, Phil Mickelson, Nick Price, Justin Rose, McElroy....everyone has become affected adversely and sometimes they switch back to what they were formerly playing or another brand.
However, when they get the clubs tweaked the way they want.....example: one more degree upright on the toe with two degrees strong......their game gets dialed in......and the ones that master that change in equipment went on to become greats. Well, owning a pool cue isn't that far off although I admit it is different. Here's the similarity.....it will take you trial and error to figure out what you like. Unless you actually embark on a comparison of cues with different features, you will never really know what you like the best. Anyone that thinks it doesn't matter is somewhat cavalier about their game and needlessly impose ceilings on how good of a player they can become.......those are the folks that still don't know "what they don't know"...different cue weights, use of bolts, balance, cue joint type & thread, , joints, ferrules, shaft sizes....shaft weight (>20%)....taper, tips, etc.
It takes awhile to figure that out and most folks just stop experimenting and just settle on something. How many people play with a 5/16x14 piloted steel joint just because that's the only cue joint they ever played? How many people know how much their cue butt and shaft weigh to comprise the actual playing weight? Do they even think that matters? Would they prefer a shaft with a different taper and if so, how would they change the taper of their current shaft....or size...or ferrule....how many folks have played with ivory ferrules.........when these folks try someone else's cue, do ask what tip is on yur cue and hardness? Duh.............so their cue weighs 19.2 ozs....what is the shaft weight ratio.......the butt weighs 15.7 ozs (so the shafts weigh 3.5 ozs. but that includes the brass receiver) but is there a weight bolt and how heavy is that hunk of metal......< 1 oz....> 1oz....? This cue could indeed weigh 19.2 ozs but the answers to the aforementioned determine how it feels when you play with that cue.
I happen to have a vert fastidious approach to my pool cues which Bob Owen and Jerry R. will readily attest. All my ivory joint cues have symmetrical cue specs and obviously, that was always my intention. It's the reason I do not own a Hercek pool cue....yet......I eventually will......it took me a long time to ultimately determine what works best for me and I rigidly adhere to these specs. However, as I earlier alluded to, for some players, the specs on the cue they play with may not be of any consequence whatsoever. I happen to think there could be another gear for them if they settled upon a cue standard and stuck with those specifications. Just keep in mind that trial and error goes a long way towards helping decide what works best for you.
However, when they get the clubs tweaked the way they want.....example: one more degree upright on the toe with two degrees strong......their game gets dialed in......and the ones that master that change in equipment went on to become greats. Well, owning a pool cue isn't that far off although I admit it is different. Here's the similarity.....it will take you trial and error to figure out what you like. Unless you actually embark on a comparison of cues with different features, you will never really know what you like the best. Anyone that thinks it doesn't matter is somewhat cavalier about their game and needlessly impose ceilings on how good of a player they can become.......those are the folks that still don't know "what they don't know"...different cue weights, use of bolts, balance, cue joint type & thread, , joints, ferrules, shaft sizes....shaft weight (>20%)....taper, tips, etc.
It takes awhile to figure that out and most folks just stop experimenting and just settle on something. How many people play with a 5/16x14 piloted steel joint just because that's the only cue joint they ever played? How many people know how much their cue butt and shaft weigh to comprise the actual playing weight? Do they even think that matters? Would they prefer a shaft with a different taper and if so, how would they change the taper of their current shaft....or size...or ferrule....how many folks have played with ivory ferrules.........when these folks try someone else's cue, do ask what tip is on yur cue and hardness? Duh.............so their cue weighs 19.2 ozs....what is the shaft weight ratio.......the butt weighs 15.7 ozs (so the shafts weigh 3.5 ozs. but that includes the brass receiver) but is there a weight bolt and how heavy is that hunk of metal......< 1 oz....> 1oz....? This cue could indeed weigh 19.2 ozs but the answers to the aforementioned determine how it feels when you play with that cue.
I happen to have a vert fastidious approach to my pool cues which Bob Owen and Jerry R. will readily attest. All my ivory joint cues have symmetrical cue specs and obviously, that was always my intention. It's the reason I do not own a Hercek pool cue....yet......I eventually will......it took me a long time to ultimately determine what works best for me and I rigidly adhere to these specs. However, as I earlier alluded to, for some players, the specs on the cue they play with may not be of any consequence whatsoever. I happen to think there could be another gear for them if they settled upon a cue standard and stuck with those specifications. Just keep in mind that trial and error goes a long way towards helping decide what works best for you.
