Classic double shim here 4 5/8 "corners, 7 ft Brunswick Highlander .
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How tight are your pockets?
- Thread starter moccabee
- Start date
When I saw this thread start up this morning, I figured the boys that play out of House of Billiards, in Santa Monica or Fast Eddie's, near Santa Cruz would chime in. They have tables with the tightest pockets in California. I don't have the measurements but don't be surprised if they report back saying they are 3 7/8" or less.
8ballEinstein said:
I just spent a month in the L.A. area and I played several times at the House of Billiards in Santa Monica, Hollywood Billiards, and at the aforementioned and very hospitable Jay Helferts house.........All three places had very tight pockets, and all seemed to me to be about equal in size - 4"
If and when I ever get a table lol.
I'll probably have the pockets shimmed straight back not angled, at 4.25 inches.
I think for practicing angled pockets are good, for some shots, but it does make you hold back your stroke for fear of missing.
A straight cut pocket, is more player friendly lol, even though it maybe only 4.25inches.
The craziest thing, I've seen someone do is triple shim a 7ft Valley lol. It was litterally sick trying to make a simple cut shot on that table.
I'll probably have the pockets shimmed straight back not angled, at 4.25 inches.
I think for practicing angled pockets are good, for some shots, but it does make you hold back your stroke for fear of missing.
A straight cut pocket, is more player friendly lol, even though it maybe only 4.25inches.
The craziest thing, I've seen someone do is triple shim a 7ft Valley lol. It was litterally sick trying to make a simple cut shot on that table.
Tight pockets certainly add to the challenge of ball pocketing, having to be ultra careful to not catch a point and all. If it helps anyone, remember the middle 3 1/2" of all pockets is the same size. Having said that, I must also state that pockets of 4 1/2" to 5" have attributes as well. For example, being able to cheat the pocket to gain position, using a little more force on the cb for shape, and the fact that larger pockets also make it easier to scratch, all make the game rich. Plus, if you have a game with someone who isn't a super serious player, it's fun if they can make a shot from time to time.In other words, don't get to sad if you play on a table with 5" corner pockets.
The ones on my table are 4 11/16" as nearly as I can tell.
The ones on my table are 4 11/16" as nearly as I can tell.
Da Poet said:
Thanks Poet for putting this up. Just got back from the Normandie where they had the welcome party for the UPA Tour Championships. It starts tomorrow with a very strong field.
Right now, Tang and Shane are playing Rodney and Raj Hundal on my table in the den. They're having fun the night before the tourney, but betting a few bucks too. Tang drew Max Eberle, and Shane drew Ronnie Wiseman. Rodney caught a bye and Raj plays Martin Rimlinger.
Maybe I'll start a thread in the tournament section since I'll be there every day.
skins said:
The way they are angled should make the pockets play easier, not tougher. If they were angled outward instead they would be tougher, hence why snooker pockets are so tough.
My table's pockets look close in size to those shown in the original post. Here's a picture of them:
They are 4 and 1/8". Does anyone know how much work it is to rework pockets? Does the cloth have to be replaced or can it just easily be lifted and put back? I think I might want them less angled because they go from 4 and 1/8th to 3 and 1/2, and if you are not absolutely dead perfect on a rail or near-rail shot with force a ball will rattle even hit inside the point.
They are 4 and 1/8". Does anyone know how much work it is to rework pockets? Does the cloth have to be replaced or can it just easily be lifted and put back? I think I might want them less angled because they go from 4 and 1/8th to 3 and 1/2, and if you are not absolutely dead perfect on a rail or near-rail shot with force a ball will rattle even hit inside the point.
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Tight pockets
Interesting articles on tight pockets found here:
http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Sheehan4.htm#Oct05
Interesting articles on tight pockets found here:
http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Sheehan4.htm#Oct05
4 1/2" is what I usually play on, but they spit out balls as if they were tighter... I've played tables ranging from 4" to 5", and 4 1/2" just feels right. 5" pockets take everything from everywhere, they'll too big, and 4" pockets are so tight, it even makes it hard to make a ball on the break!
Black-Balled said:I have played on a snooker table with poool balls and found it impossible, for all practical purposes, to shoot a ball up the rail and make it. Now, trying the same and drawing CB a foot or so? Not gonna happen.
I don't know how tight your (pool) table is, or 'the shots you've always done', but I mantain the belief that there are shots that cannot be executed on a super-tight table. I know how to adjust and have no qualms about getting down on a tight one, I just wouldn't want one in my home 'coz I feel it would tie my hands, so to say...
And I am not telling how to adjust for the virgin mary either
no disrespect but maybe the reasoning you have about practicing on a snooker table has to do with the level of your game and or the that you never gave it a chance. i had some 6,7 and even a few 8 and 9 ball run outs in that situation. my limited success on those tables made me want to over tighten mine to keep my play precise. as far as 'the shots i've always done', i haven't changed my game one bit since tightening my table(s). it's just made me have to play a little closer to center than normal. as far as shots where i would need to cheat the pocket it's not a problem as long as my shot is true. i sometimes need to stroke a little harder but that's only given me another 'berometer" to make sure my stroke is true. for rail shots i need to be very close to the rail when the ball enters the pocket but that still leaves room for making any position needed as long as my stroke is very true and my speed control is correct for the english used. sure there are shots i miss sometimes that on most other tables would fall but that's ok. for the most part it's telling me my stroke or aim wasn't close to perfect. for me the purpose is trying to bring my game to a level that can hang with many and i think that's a small price to pay.
Takumi4G63 said:My table's pockets look close in size to those shown in the original post. Here's a picture of them:
They are 4 and 1/8". Does anyone know how much work it is to rework pockets? Does the cloth have to be replaced or can it just easily be lifted and put back? I think I might want them less angled because they go from 4 and 1/8th to 3 and 1/2, and if you are not absolutely dead perfect on a rail or near-rail shot with force a ball will rattle even hit inside the point.
The rails can be pulled off and re-worked without changing the table cloth. I like the way your pockets look but if you can't fire in a down-the-rail shot, then I wouldn't like playing on it. That's the test to me. When the cloth gets sticky or wet, that table would be a nightmare.
Chris