What is the best and easiest way to remove excess shellac/ gloss from a new shaft?..Chemicals?...Different grades of sandpaper?..steel wool? Any input would be greatly appreciated..thanks
How to remove excess shellac/ gloss from a new shaft
- Thread starter David Marcus
- Start date
I believe laquer thinner or acetone would do it. Not sure what it would do to a ferrull, tip, or any glue, but I think it will take off the finish.
Using almost any kind of liquid other than plain water will do what you want.
What it will also do is something you probably aren't prepared for,and that is causing the grain to raise. This will be twice as bad at the base of the ferrule,and if not dealt with properly,you may never again have a flat ferrule seam. You will feel it for sure.
It CAN be done,but only with denatured alcohol,which is only 1% water,or less.
Standard rubbing alcohol is 70/30,with the 30% being plain water. Even just a little on a paper towel will raise the grain as sure as the sun will come up.
The better grade is 91/9,still 9% water. Even this will raise the grain some.
The denatured alcohol with raise it just a tad,but that can be corrected most of the time with 1000 grit sandpaper,followed with 1200,1500,or 2000. Make sure you have some of at least 2 of these grades.
Even if you try the denatured,let it dry on a paper towel for a minute before you use it on the shaft. A totally wet paper towel is NOT the way to go. A spot a little bigger than a quarter will do fine,but even then let it dry for a few seconds.
The exception to this is if you regularly clean them after this first time.
Also,keep in mind that using a liquid might also remove the sealer that was probably present on a brand-new shaft.
Trust me on this,as I've learned this on my own shafts.
If the shaft feels gummy/sticky/whatever you prefer to call it,try using a fresh dollar bill,a piece of clean white cardboard,or a piece of fresh 1000 (or higher) grit sandpaper first.
Most new shafts now have a sealer of some kind,which may have been lightly sanded to remove the top coat (leaving the pores covered),and in a LOT of cases a couple light coats of a carnauba based wax.
On the other hand,I've seen guys take brand-new 2-300 dollar shafts and immediately start working on them with a green Scotch-Brite pad,or 400 sandpaper which is about the same.
Hope this helps,Tommy D.
What it will also do is something you probably aren't prepared for,and that is causing the grain to raise. This will be twice as bad at the base of the ferrule,and if not dealt with properly,you may never again have a flat ferrule seam. You will feel it for sure.
It CAN be done,but only with denatured alcohol,which is only 1% water,or less.
Standard rubbing alcohol is 70/30,with the 30% being plain water. Even just a little on a paper towel will raise the grain as sure as the sun will come up.
The better grade is 91/9,still 9% water. Even this will raise the grain some.
The denatured alcohol with raise it just a tad,but that can be corrected most of the time with 1000 grit sandpaper,followed with 1200,1500,or 2000. Make sure you have some of at least 2 of these grades.
Even if you try the denatured,let it dry on a paper towel for a minute before you use it on the shaft. A totally wet paper towel is NOT the way to go. A spot a little bigger than a quarter will do fine,but even then let it dry for a few seconds.
The exception to this is if you regularly clean them after this first time.
Also,keep in mind that using a liquid might also remove the sealer that was probably present on a brand-new shaft.
Trust me on this,as I've learned this on my own shafts.
If the shaft feels gummy/sticky/whatever you prefer to call it,try using a fresh dollar bill,a piece of clean white cardboard,or a piece of fresh 1000 (or higher) grit sandpaper first.
Most new shafts now have a sealer of some kind,which may have been lightly sanded to remove the top coat (leaving the pores covered),and in a LOT of cases a couple light coats of a carnauba based wax.
On the other hand,I've seen guys take brand-new 2-300 dollar shafts and immediately start working on them with a green Scotch-Brite pad,or 400 sandpaper which is about the same.
Hope this helps,Tommy D.
You could just have the shaft turned down a little bit. That shouldn't cost that much and it is fairly simple for someone that knows what they are doing.
I'd go with the green Scotch-Brite pad that Tommy D mentioned. Will do a great job for you.
Now that ArizonaPete mentioned it,I should have made this clearer :sorry:.
Scotch-Brite pads (unless you find the white one) are about the worst thing you can do. They are roughly 400 grit,and if used daily you will know it within a few weeks.
If used excessively,you will turn the shaft into a pencil. Tommy D.
Scotch-Brite pads (unless you find the white one) are about the worst thing you can do. They are roughly 400 grit,and if used daily you will know it within a few weeks.
If used excessively,you will turn the shaft into a pencil. Tommy D.
If a shaft was produced correctly, there should only be a finish on the bottom 4-5 inches near the joint.
There should be no reason to have to do anything but burnish a shaft for use.
If you have a lot of extra on there, you need to send it back for a refund or replacement.
There should be no reason to have to do anything but burnish a shaft for use.
If you have a lot of extra on there, you need to send it back for a refund or replacement.
mothers chrome polish on a clean soft rag and burnish it works great. Paul Fanelli used it for years... He was a great cue maker RIP
I think it's the best thing you can use to remove excess shellac. But, only use it once to remove the shellac and not on a daily basis.
What kind of cue do you have? Can we start there before you touch it?
Freddie <~~~ thinks the posts are good, but I think there's a different problem here
amen!
i sat at the bar one nite watching from a distance some guy whittling away on his shaft with a scotchbrite pad
i could see the sawdust flying!!
i couldnt resist,
i just had to go talk to him as he's standing in a pile of sawdust
he had that shaft shaped like a stop sign :rotflmao1:
ditto that
I put denatured alcohol on a magic eraser, like was previously mentioned I let it sit for a tad before using it. Then when all was said and done i burnished it with wax paper. Turned out pretty good although I'm not very educated in cues and I wouldn't know good from bad
If the cue is of any real value..Take it to the shop !
Or just use micro sandpaper..grip the sand paper loosely
rotate the shaft while using long strokes..from furrel to collar..
Have a few rags on the side , an wipe the shaft down every few
strokes so as your not grinding grit back into the shaft..
when finnished sanding..make sure to wipe it down real good.
Then barnish..or seal it , then barnish..
Or just use micro sandpaper..grip the sand paper loosely
rotate the shaft while using long strokes..from furrel to collar..
Have a few rags on the side , an wipe the shaft down every few
strokes so as your not grinding grit back into the shaft..
when finnished sanding..make sure to wipe it down real good.
Then barnish..or seal it , then barnish..
crazy
You guys,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Shellac IS BUG SHIT it desolves with denatured alcohol.
You dont have to sand on you shaft IF IT IS SHELLAC.
Who makes the cue ? Are you sure It is shellac .
MMike
You guys,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Shellac IS BUG SHIT it desolves with denatured alcohol.
You dont have to sand on you shaft IF IT IS SHELLAC.
Who makes the cue ? Are you sure It is shellac .
MMike