How to remove very light scrathes?

[HOB Weert]

Hi,
I have a new cue wich has some very light scrathes in the butt.
You can't feel them, but you see them.
It is a black butt.

Is there anyway to get them out?
I have a small lathe, do i turn it on high speed, and buff it whith something?
Help me out guy's.

MH
HOB Weert

 

[BHQ]

Hi,
I have a new cue wich has some very light scrathes in the butt.
You can't feel them, but you see them.
It is a black butt.

Is there anyway to get them out?
I have a small lathe, do i turn it on high speed, and buff it whith something?
Help me out guy's.

MH
HOB Weert

it depends on how bad the scratches are
and if they are indeed in the finish and NOT in the ebony,
you can use 3m finesse-it machine polish

 

[Cue Guru]

I would have to see the scratches to give absolute advice, but I will say this:

ALWAYS begin with the finest polish and work up only if you have to, and then work back down (and don't skip any steps).

Here's some things I use, in ascending order of aggressiveness:

For REALY fine scratches, I use optical plastic polish (Meguaris and others offer it)

Then Optical plastic cleaner (Also Meguaris)

Then 3M Imperial Hand Glaze

3M Fine polishing compound (usually as aggressive as I would ever go)

Then 1500/2000 grit and down


I will use the lathe for the sanding and initial polishing, but generally the hand glaze and (once the finish no longer 'smells') hard wax by hand.

I use one grand hard wax- great stuff. High clarity and good durability.

The plastic polish, applied by hand, I normally work it across the scratch direction for best results.

And, as mentioned, if the scratches you see are actually in the wood, polishing the clear will not solve that...

 

[scdiveteam]

Hi,

Depending on the scratches, sometimes you have to re-wet sand and work your way up to a high grit like 2500 or 3000. Then you start your buffing and polishing process.

Rick Geschrey