How would you play this rack of 8 ball

Russ Chewning said:
4,7,5,6,3,1, and 8 in corner. Care should be taken to get an anle on the 6/5 combo as to no get much movement from the 6, but still allows CB to travel to a thinner angle to get from 6 to the 3.

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JMHO, as a C player..

Russ
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Russ;

Go above the 13 off the 7, to near the center of the table. You can't go wrong with the 3 there. The combination is then easier to control because you can hit the 6 thinner and you can reach the shot on the 6 without stretching over the table and other balls.

Mike
 
Deadon said:
Russ;

Go above the 13 off the 7, to near the center of the table. You can't go wrong with the 3 there. The combination is then easier to control because you can hit the 6 thinner and you can reach the shot on the 6 without stretching over the table and other balls.

Mike
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I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean 4, 7, then shoot the 3, 1, then taking the combo? I don't like that at all, since you will be required to play a precise position shot from the 6 to the 8.

If you mean 4, 7, 6, 5, then moving to the 3, it seems you are playing position on the combo a foot or two farther than necessary.

JMHO, as a C player.

Russ
 
Im kinda surprised by how many people would play the 4-7 first. Im guessing the logic for it is leaving the 14 blocked in case of a miss, but taking them out in the middle of the run negates that theory.
What about this pattern...
5 off the combination, 6, 3, 1, 7, 4, 8?
Chuck
 
Rivercity,

Can you diagram the position you want to stop off the 1, and how you would hit the 7 to get on the 4? I see the 4 as having a very narrow position zone, which the CB happens to be dead smack in the middle of right now.

Saving the 4 until last, I can see many things going wrong. Stunning over a couple inches too far and getting behind the edge of the 9, coming up a few inches short, and ending up slightly jacked over the 10/13...

The point of taking the 4 down now is the fact that there are only two balls that require any level of preciseness in positioning, the 1 and the 4. If you don't take it now, you will be creating a problem you can solve right now.

Russ
 
I am rather surprised at the replies thus far.

I would opt to leave the 6 and 4 for last because they are insurance balls that are blocking some stripes.

I would shoot the 6/5 combo and relatively straight on the 3.
Then pocket the 3 in the side getting relatively straight on the 1.
1 in the corner with draw, getting shape on the 7.
Then pocket the 7 getting shape on the 6.
6 to the 4, then cinch the 8.

Leaving the 6 and 4 for last is a good strategy, in case a hot woman bends over and gives you a view while you are shooting all the gimme's on the table, and you happen to miss during your relatively easy run out.

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Russ Chewning said:
Rivercity,

Can you diagram the position you want to stop off the 1, and how you would hit the 7 to get on the 4? I see the 4 as having a very narrow position zone, which the CB happens to be dead smack in the middle of right now.

Saving the 4 until last, I can see many things going wrong. Stunning over a couple inches too far and getting behind the edge of the 9, coming up a few inches short, and ending up slightly jacked over the 10/13...

The point of taking the 4 down now is the fact that there are only two balls that require any level of preciseness in positioning, the 1 and the 4. If you don't take it now, you will be creating a problem you can solve right now.

Russ
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The zone for the 4 is narrow, but it is long. Playing across it is suicidal, but playing parrallel to the zone of the shot is fairly safe. This is actually a runout I had recently, and was curious about other peoples patterns. To me, I looked at this rack, and immediately sa 6-5,6,3,1,7,4,8 so that was how I played it.
Here is the run, forgive the "bank" on the 1 ball, I make use of the tables pockets (4.6 ish) a little much sometimes.
Chuck
 
Haven't read others responses yet so I'll probably see I'm wrong.

I'm taking solids. If I can make the four on the first shot I shoot it first, then then the 6/5, 6, 3, 1, 7, and 8. Probably play the 8 in the side, unless I hit
the 7 bad.

If I can't make the 4 then I'm shooting 6/5, 6, 4, 3, 1, 7, 8

Keep in mind if I get out of shape on a ball I'd change the order.
 
Russ Chewning said:
I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean 4, 7, then shoot the 3, 1, then taking the combo? I don't like that at all, since you will be required to play a precise position shot from the 6 to the 8.

If you mean 4, 7, 6, 5, then moving to the 3, it seems you are playing position on the combo a foot or two farther than necessary.

JMHO, as a C player.

Russ
Click to expand...

Hi Russ;

Actually, 4,7,5,6,3,1,8. From your position on the 7, bring the CB up near the center of the table, above the other balls, and play the 6-5 combo. From that angle, you can control the 6 better. When you are closer, and using draw or playing an angle toward the 14, its easy to loose control of the 6. You may even make both balls. A light touch on the 6 from the center of the table will almost assuredly leave it in front of the pocket and give you the natural angle to come back up for the 3, then 1.

Mike

And only you tall guys (if right handed) can reach that shot on the 6.
 
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Neil said:
I would put the 4 near the pocket, making sure he cannot just make it with the 9, and also make sure it doesn't block the 7. Then I would let him have a go at it. His only real shot is to shoot the 15 into the six, making his ball. If he can get out from there, well, hey, he earned it.
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It's amazing how sensitive 8-ball can be. Just moving one ball into a funny spot can be the difference! Solids is supposed to lose now since you're practically forced to give back the table and stripes is going to have its way with you. As solids, I'll quickly sacrafice now in the hopes that I can reap from the benefits later. I'm tying something up, even if it means shooting directly at the 8-ball to do it and giving up BIH.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
It's amazing how sensitive 8-ball can be. Just moving one ball into a funny spot can be the difference! Solids is supposed to lose now since you're practically forced to give back the table and stripes is going to have its way with you. As solids, I'll quickly sacrafice now in the hopes that I can reap from the benefits later. I'm tying something up, even if it means shooting directly at the 8-ball to do it and giving up BIH.
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nah, this is a run out, solids wins...

the combo isnt trouble, the 4 and the 1 are.....you just need a good angle so you dont fudge it......imho


SPINDOKTOR
 
SPINDOKTOR said:
nah, this is a run out, solids wins...

the combo isnt trouble, the 4 and the 1 are.....you just need a good angle so you dont fudge it......imho


SPINDOKTOR
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\

Wait, I'm talking about the second lay-out. Not the original.
 
SPINDOKTOR said:
nah, this is a run out, solids wins...

the combo isnt trouble, the 4 and the 1 are.....you just need a good angle so you dont fudge it......imho


SPINDOKTOR
Click to expand...


I am fairly certain jude was replying to the "altered" rack after a not so educated 8-ball player decided they wanted strips because the 12 hanger looked so appealing...

Believe it or not this seems to happen....The guy picks the wrong balls, wrong shots...and when inevitably they make thier mistake. they change the layout and put you in a complete hole...


I have not seen this yet...but in all honesty my response to the "altered" layout would have been:

Draw back off of the 4 Ball.
Play a safe by caroming in the 14 ball (hitting the 6 fist as thin as possible) and try and attempt to leave the CB in that pocket area (hopefully on the rail)

That does give my opponent a shot on the 13, but off the rail and cutting it down to the corner pocket...(he would have to let the CB go a bit) I am guessing it is less than 50% that he would make that.
 
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