how would you play this 9 ball rack from the given cueball position? curious what people come up with.
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how would you run these 6 balls?
- Thread starter Egg McDogit
- Start date
I woud cut in the 4 and go to the opposite rail and leave myself an angle on the 5. Then make the 5 and go 2-3 rails for the six. Depending on how I got on the 6 to where I pot the 7. But lets say I get where I want to then I would roll in the 6 and get straight in on the 7 and roll past a little for the correct angle on the 8 and get the f out 
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That looks like the best option to me, the come up the table for the 7 in the side and the 8 in the corner with follow for shape on the nine.CaptainJR said:
BazookaJoe said:
I second BazookaJoe's out. Nice out.
Seems like everyone so far pretty much agrees on how to do this, with minor variations going from 7-8-9, but with the 7-8-9 positioned how they are, there are any number of easy ways to get out as long as you have a shot on the 7.
-Andrew
Well ...
I am not scared, so I will use low left on the 4, coming just uptable from the 7 and a little off the rail. Shoot the rest as everyone pretty much suggested, but I would not shoot the 8 in the corner until I inspected my angle on the 7. I would prefer to shoot the 8 in the side (more margin for shape) than shooting it in the corner. Like I said, it would all depend on the angle of the 7 ball shot.
Icon of Sin said:
I am not scared, so I will use low left on the 4, coming just uptable from the 7 and a little off the rail. Shoot the rest as everyone pretty much suggested, but I would not shoot the 8 in the corner until I inspected my angle on the 7. I would prefer to shoot the 8 in the side (more margin for shape) than shooting it in the corner. Like I said, it would all depend on the angle of the 7 ball shot.
Snapshot9 said:
I am not scared either... I would use low left on the 4, shooting the "Z" shot, coming between the 7 and 8, bouncing off the top long rail and get position on the 5 on the LEFT (9 ball) side... then I would use draw to flatten the angle off of the 5 to come downtable (above the 7 and 8) landing behind the 6 for the easy out.
BillYards said:
I would say that for my game, that "Z" is too low percentage (could run into the 7 or 8, could land all the way on the left end rail), considering I could have an extremely high-percentage position coming straight across for the longer shot on the 5, and very natural 2-rail shape with just a touch of running english to come back to the upper-right corner of the table for the shot on the 6 and easy out.
But perhaps you're a much better player than I am, and can execute the Z position with perfect confidence that you'll get the right shape. I guess this is a very literal instance of "different strokes for different folks".
-Andrew
Egg McDogit said:
I'd shoot the 4 in the lower-right corner and stun the cue across the table. From there I'd shoot the 5 in the upper-left corner playing 2-3 rail shape to be close to the rail on the 6. Shoot the 6 in the lower-left corner and go one rail to get straight on the 7. Shoot 7 in top side and follow just a touch, shoot 8 in lower left corner and follow for the 9 in the upper-left corner.
Egg McDogit said:
It's better to avoid the 7 and 8 altogether going both directions, although it would be tempting to bump these balls to stop the cueball.
I use this shape below quite a bit to avoid clusters and change the natural angle. I would shoot the four and move the cueball for a corner cut on the 5 to the position below. Shooting the 5, I would use just enough inside to stratighten the cue ball, trying to catch the rail about a foot before the side pocket. The main thing I would be thinking is hit it hard enough to get the cueball downtable and for the inside kill to take, because this will take speed off the cueball and coming up short on the six is bad.
After that shot, it's a roadmap.
Chris
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This is how I'd do it.
4 down the rail, come over for the 5
play the natural shape off the 5 and head back down table
shoot the 6 and come straight off for the 7 in the side
Play the 8 in several different pockets depending on angle after the 7
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4 down the rail, come over for the 5
play the natural shape off the 5 and head back down table
shoot the 6 and come straight off for the 7 in the side
Play the 8 in several different pockets depending on angle after the 7
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BazookaJoe said:
I think pretty much anyone that is any kind of shotmaker will play it pretty much the way Bazooka describes...Non shotmakers may tend to want risk danger to get closer to the 5. I don't really know why since the two rail off the 5 is natural and not a real "difficult" longish shot...
The only thing I would do different is from the 6 to the 7 I would follow two rails out (a little high right) so that I am coming more toward the 7 as I approach the target line and have a little more room for error (IMO)....Going straight off the rail accross the target area I tend to feather the ball or hit it too hard and end up "just a little goofy".....Then you end up just a little more goofy on the next shot....That is the area I see the beginning of the "sell out" in this rack......just because (as has been stated in this post)...once your on the 6 the rest of the rack seems "routine".....I think people have a tendancy to "let up" here and lose focus...a little lazyness here and you hit slightly lower than you intended and the CB ends up stuck to the 7 or a little high and your froze to the side rail and you thinking to yourself.."what the hell did I just do"...at the same time "all of a sudden" your opponent is now sitting very upright in his chair...
I see many a B player getting out of position from the 6 to the 7 and then "kicking themselves" for screwing up an easy out......
I will probably be told I am dead wrong.....and I probably am....but that is just the way I see it...
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PFFFT none of you guys posted the BEST way to win this rack. I do this 1,000,000% of the time!
And if I don't FEEL like making such an EASY shot, I'll run out like this:
Then I would play this SIMPLE position shot from the 5 to the 6:
I hope you've all learned something.
And if I don't FEEL like making such an EASY shot, I'll run out like this:
Then I would play this SIMPLE position shot from the 5 to the 6:
I hope you've all learned something.
I originally posted something but, because I'm a loser with too much time on my hands (and a table in what would be my formal dining room), I set the balls up pretty much exactly as they are in the diagram (using the diamonds as reference points, of course) and ended up deleting my original post. It turns out that there is actually more room on a real pool table to work with than what it looks like in the diagram so ... I'd play it like this. It seems pretty obvious though, doesn't it? I think I like cuetechasaurus' answers better. 
(by the way - I know that some people like just cinching it and taking a longer shot on the 5, but if you get too close to that second rail, not only does the shot get a little testy, but the 7 and 8 are in your natural, 2-rail path to the 6. From close to that side rail, you'll have to hit it with inside to avoid those balls. Set it up on a real pool table and you'll see.)
It turns out that there is actually more room on a real pool table to work with than what it looks like in the diagram so ... I'd play it like this. It seems pretty obvious though, doesn't it? I think I like cuetechasaurus' answers better. (by the way - I know that some people like just cinching it and taking a longer shot on the 5, but if you get too close to that second rail, not only does the shot get a little testy, but the 7 and 8 are in your natural, 2-rail path to the 6. From close to that side rail, you'll have to hit it with inside to avoid those balls. Set it up on a real pool table and you'll see.)
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I was thinking I'd want to shoot the 5 from the area you referenced as well. The 5 is the only crucial shapre the needs to be...Jimmy M. said:...I'm a loser with too much time on my hands ...