How would you work through this rack...

[krupa]

I set up a break shot and was left with an ugly (to me) table to deal with. All the balls bunched up on one side of the rack area.

Instead of using cuetable or snapping a picture, I thought I'd try using my phone to take a quick video of the table layout. I don't know if this will be any better than a picture, but it's worth a try.

Table Walk around

(The noise in the audio is a de-humidifier.)

The cueball is to the right of the 15 and just to the left of the 13.

 

[Bob Jewett]

As a possible start, I'd play the 13, 15, 1 in the side, going forward for the 9 and then the 14. From the 14 I'd run into the 3 for the 4 or 5 after. The balls are open enough that you don't have to run into anything, so if the cue ball fell just right I'd try a no-bumps run.

 

[krupa]

As a possible start, I'd play the 13, 15, 1 in the side, going forward for the 9 and then the 14. From the 14 I'd run into the 3 for the 4 or 5 after. The balls are open enough that you don't have to run into anything, so if the cue ball fell just right I'd try a no-bumps run.

Huh... that sounds so easy. When I was looking at the table, I saw the 13,15, and 1 but then got lost.

Unfortunately, when I shot the 13, the CB froze to the 4. I jacked up to shoot the 15, took it for granted (but it was so close!) and promptly scratched. (The past couple days, this game has been making me swear... a lot.)

 

[Paul Dayton]

I saw the same thing. Actually it isn't a bad layout. Minimum cue ball movement. The only potential problem would be the 6 and the 7?

 

[Dan White]

I'm going to reply without reading Bob J.'s post first. Of course whatever he says is probably correct! :smile:

I'd analyze this rack as follows:
The 6 and 7 are tied up some but the 6 can be made in the corner, so I don't see it as an immediate problem to go after, especially since you have other issues closer to the cue ball. I'm looking at the 10 or 2 as my break ball, assuming they don't get moved. However, this rack probably can't be picked apart without rearranging the balls some. You don't have to go into them blindly, though. I'd start by recognizing an opportunity to remove the 4 and 14. My move would be to shoot the 13 and stun/draw back to graze the 5. I think this is a reasonably high percentage shot since the 5 is so close. You want to move the 5 away from the 4 and toward the 10. This will put your cb in a position to shoot either the 4 or 14. If you misplay the shot or just don't have a shot for some reason, the 15 is your safety ball. Keep that 15 there as long as you can while you continue to pocket balls in that cluster.

If you do remove the 13, 4 and 14, you may be able to bump into the 11 after shooting the 14. This will free up the 2 as a break ball, and might give you a next shot on the 9, which needs to be removed sooner rather than later. If I did have a shot on the 9 I'd use the 15 to get up for the 6 in the same pocket. (If you get the cue ball parallel to the foot rail with the 15 you can probably stun the cue ball up table and past the 6. If an opportunity came up to shoot one of the cluster balls and get easier shape on the 6 then I'd do that first). After getting the 6 and 7 I'd go back and see what is left of the cluster and deal with it at that point, but I'd think the rest would be makeable in one fashion or another.

Good post!

 

[Dan White]

Unfortunately, when I shot the 13, the CB froze to the 4.

I like Bob's route better than mine, but only if the 13 can be made without getting too close to the 4/5. If if is possible to draw back away from the 4/5 you risk getting too steep on the 15 and unable to hold the cue ball for the 9. However, I guess in this case you could go up for the 6/7 first, and then come back down for the 9.

I think if the 13 were straight in, I'd prefer Bob's layout. As it is, and based on what happened to you, I think my pattern makes use of that angle on the 13 and at least gives you several balls to shoot at right off.

 

[sparkle84]

I like Bob's route better than mine, but only if the 13 can be made without getting too close to the 4/5. If if is possible to draw back away from the 4/5 you risk getting too steep on the 15 and unable to hold the cue ball for the 9. However, I guess in this case you could go up for the 6/7 first, and then come back down for the 9.

I think if the 13 were straight in, I'd prefer Bob's layout. As it is, and based on what happened to you, I think my pattern makes use of that angle on the 13 and at least gives you several balls to shoot at right off.

For all intents & purposes the 13 is straight in. It can easily be made & have the CB follow under & past the 14. You'll then have the angle to go off the 15 to the side rail which is preferable to going to the bottom rail. It's a little thing but in 14.1 the little things add up. I'd kind of like to leave the 1 there & go directly to the 9 but that's going to put you too far up table & if you come up short you have no shot. So Bob's route sounds good. Bumping the 3 when you shoot the 14 is good but I'd take it a step further. I'd want to hit the 3 in a way & with the speed that the CB caroms into the 2 & sends it at or below the 8. The reason being is that if you just bump the 3 softly & the CB nestles up by the 2 & the 4 is straight in you're in a lot of trouble. You may have the 10 in the side but then again it may now be blocked by the 3. The 4 is a dead end so you'd probably have to shot the 5. Again you're over a ball & may not be able to confidently predict the outcome. It's possible the 2/8 may tie up but there's still plenty of time & balls to deal with them. The 3 may also be in a good position to be of great value when dealing with the 6/7. The rack should be pretty easy from there with 2 good break balls. Another way to go is glance off the bottom of the 3 & go into the 5. The 2 is still there but the 8 gets you to that. It all depends on a person's level of play. If not able to execute what's described it may be better to rearrange the balls a little as long as it's done in the 1st few shots.