I have trouble with drawing my ball when the distance between the cue

[Scott Lee]

So was Bob, Luxury. Wrist action has no effect on how much draw you can get. The CB is already gone before you could "snap your wrist". It's just another of those great myths out there...like, if you follow through farther, you will get more draw (NOPE)...or elevate your cue for more draw (NOPE). For the many posters in this thread, who posted about follow-through... instructors or not...how FAR do you HAVE to follow through? I'll wait to hear some responses before I tell you the truth!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I was talking full table length draw


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[Luxury]

The cue ball doesnt care what your wrist does. It only cares about where its hit and at what speed.



Some people can only generate speed with a wrist flick, but that doesnt mean wrist action is needed. Most people are not hitting the ball where they think they are to begin with.

I’m well aware. Just tried some full table draw shots on my nine foot Diamond with no wrist action. No bueno.


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[Luxury]

I deviated from the 5 foot draw shot which is child’s play to most of us here and started talking about full table length draw shots but I figured the thread isn’t just about the original poster and I do believe getting someone to the next level that wants to be able to do full table extra shots needs some wrist action in my humble opinion.


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[Masayoshi]

I was talking full table length draw


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From 6 diamonds of separation, I can draw back the table length plus 2 diamonds without incorporating a wrist flick. To get more than that requires some wrist action, for me at least, but I don't think that much draw would ever be useful in a game and it reduces accuracy significantly.

As for the OP's question, the people saying don't cue super low are correct. The extra spin you get from cueing extra low will be lost due to the lower cue ball speed caused by hitting farther from center. On slick tables, you may be able to get away with it, but my grandmother can draw the ball on slick tables and she passed a few years ago. On most tables, you will have to tradeoff some spin to get more cue ball speed for the best results (balance is important)

Another important factor I have only seen briefly mention is how the cue ball jumps on the way to the object ball. Depending on how many times it lands, how it lands, and where it lands on the way to the object ball, you can lose spin and efficiency in getting the ball to come back. If it bounces too much, you will be losing too much spin. If it bounces too high, you will lose some spin, if it hits the object ball on an upward bound, the spin will not take as effectively. Etc. Play with how high you hit the cue ball, elevation, and speed to find the most effective way to draw from that distance. Imho, maximum draw from long distance is nowhere near the miscue limit and you might find the most useable draw to be closer to center ball than you would like to believe.

 

[diazr3]

To draw the cue ball a lot you need to hit it hard and low with a relatively level stick. That's all. A loose or tight grip, long bridge, short bridge, pause, following through extra or any other similar advice will only help you draw if somehow it gets you to hit low and hard.

I have had different experiences, I find my best draws come from easy, medium paced shots. Definitely firm, but I wouldn't say hard.

A lot of people here are talking about following through which is definitely a must but I haven't read anyone talking about accelerating through. I feel acceleration is a bigger factor in draw than following through.

Let's say you have a straight in draw shot. If you're a right handed player, you know reaching the cue near the long rail about 2-3 diamonds from the far corner pocket (on your right side) is a very hard shot to reach. Bridge is super long and stroke is very short and "pokey". There is very little "following through" on a shot like this but I can still draw it back to center table or more because I'm accelerating through.

Watch this shot at 17:00. He doesn't hit the ball very hard but still manages to move the cue well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toPr3HiBL5w

 

[freds]

Watch this shot at 17:00. He doesn't hit the ball very hard but still manages to move the cue well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toPr3HiBL5w

You mean the 3 ball? Not much draw there, mostly spin off the rail. But you're right, he hit it nice. I'd have way over hit it, got a roll off the 6 to end up straight in on the 4 to the bottom corner and pretend like I meant it. :wink:

 

[Patrick Johnson]

I find my best draws come from easy, medium paced shots.

Probably because your stroke is more reliable at that speed and you're able to hit lower on the ball. If you could reliably hit the same spot at higher speed you'd get more draw.

pj
chgo

 

[Bob Jewett]

I have had different experiences, I find my best draws come from easy, medium paced shots. Definitely firm, but I wouldn't say hard. ...

I think for most shots, you will have to hit the cue ball quite a bit harder to get three diamonds of draw than three diamond of follow. I don't mean break shot speed or all your effort, but I think you do need more speed for draw than for most other shots.

When I said "draw the cue ball a lot" I meant shots like drawing it across the table and back. While you can do that smoothly, it's impossible to do that without significant stick speed.

Most students who have draw problems cannot draw the ball first because they are reluctant to hit the cue ball more than a tiny bit below center and second because they don't want to hit the cue ball hard enough. I think both fears come from having miscued too many times. And I think the miscue problem comes from never having learned how to chalk.