I need a headstock and tailstock.

snipershot

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
Silver Member
I'm building a tapering machine that's going to be cnc in the future and I need a headstock and tailstock for it. I've got a fixture with thompson rails and pillow blocks, a 1/2 10 acme leadscrew, and a carriage. I also have a 4x10 cross slide that's going to mount to the carriage. Its all pretty heavy duty and accurate stuff. So now I need a motor, headstock, and tailstock. Any suggestions? Its still in its infancy, so I can make any needed parts or fixtures to mount something to the bed. The more accurate, the better. I thought about taig parts, but I figured id ask here if anyone had any other suggestions. Thanks.

Joe
 
You don't say what kind or size of rails, I recommend supported rails - my first pass I used unsupported rails and that resulted in a lot of inaccuracy due to the sag in the rails. Mine were 20mm and "seemed" stiff enough - Hah, was I ever wrong.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
GBCues said:
You don't say what kind or size of rails, I recommend supported rails - my first pass I used unsupported rails and that resulted in a lot of inaccuracy due to the sag in the rails. Mine were 20mm and "seemed" stiff enough - Hah, was I ever wrong.

My 2 cents,

Gary
Click to expand...

I believe they are supported. Its actually a fixture that came out ouf a machine and it weighs 125 pounds, so I think it should be sturdy enough, lol. Ill try to post pics of it when I get home from work tonight.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I'm building a tapering machine that's going to be cnc in the future and I need a headstock and tailstock for it. I've got a fixture with thompson rails and pillow blocks, a 1/2 10 acme leadscrew, and a carriage. I also have a 4x10 cross slide that's going to mount to the carriage. Its all pretty heavy duty and accurate stuff. So now I need a motor, headstock, and tailstock. Any suggestions? Its still in its infancy, so I can make any needed parts or fixtures to mount something to the bed. The more accurate, the better. I thought about taig parts, but I figured id ask here if anyone had any other suggestions. Thanks.

Joe
Click to expand...

Have you considered 'cannibalizing' one of the 7 x nn Asian Minilathes.

Much sturdier headstock than Taig and a "real" tailstock(tho they do have
some issues). Plus, there is enough online info about using, modifying,
upgrading, etc. to keep you reading for years.

Dale
 
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snipershot said:
I'm building a tapering machine that's going to be cnc in the future and I need a headstock and tailstock for it. I've got a fixture with thompson rails and pillow blocks, a 1/2 10 acme leadscrew, and a carriage. I also have a 4x10 cross slide that's going to mount to the carriage. Its all pretty heavy duty and accurate stuff. So now I need a motor, headstock, and tailstock. Any suggestions? Its still in its infancy, so I can make any needed parts or fixtures to mount something to the bed. The more accurate, the better. I thought about taig parts, but I figured id ask here if anyone had any other suggestions. Thanks.

Joe
Click to expand...

I built mine on a CH turner mounted on a 20/20 alum extrusion.
I bolted the long dovetail and countersunk the bolts so the tailstock can move up and done.
The big plus in the CH turner is it can spin in high speed.
You will need that if you hog out on cnc.
DZ shows one here .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDnnm_vszcU&list=UU8EIauLdX6W9WWLyCfoeOlA&index=7&feature=plcp
 
JoeyInCali said:
I built mine on a CH turner mounted on a 20/20 alum extrusion.
I bolted the long dovetail and countersunk the bolts so the tailstock can move up and done.
The big plus in the CH turner is it can spin in high speed.
You will need that if you hog out on cnc.
DZ shows one here .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDnnm_vszcU&list=UU8EIauLdX6W9WWLyCfoeOlA&index=7&feature=plcp
Click to expand...

That's awesome. My machine won't be quite that big or fancy though. I like the headstock and tailstock on it.

Joe
 
pdcue said:
Have you considered 'canabalizing' one of the 7 x nn Asian Minilathes.

Much sturdier headstock than Taig and a "real" tailstock(tho they do have
some issues). Plus, there is enough online info about using, modifying,
upgrading, etc. to keep you reading for years.

Dale
Click to expand...

I've seen those and thought about doing that, but for what they cost, I don't know if they are worth it. I googled it, and like u said, there's a TON of info on them which is a plus, but it appears that they have some problems.

Joe
 
Well, I'm not sure if I'm going to get that fixture now, but I'm still going to build a machine soon. What about a wood lathe headstock that runs at 550 rpm? I'm thinking if I put one of those small mt2 shank chucks in the headstock, I can shim it and tune it up, but will it hold its tolerance?

Joe
 
snipershot said:
Well, I'm not sure if I'm going to get that fixture now, but I'm still going to build a machine soon. What about a wood lathe headstock that runs at 550 rpm? I'm thinking if I put one of those small mt2 shank chucks in the headstock, I can shim it and tune it up, but will it hold its tolerance?

Joe
Click to expand...

"I started building cues because I hate my money."

So you're building a CNC machine? You must REALLY hate your money!!

550rpm is plenty fast - assuming you will use a router as the shaper - I had a problem a while back with "barber poling" and I was running at like 1500rpm. I was advised to slow my spin rate down to around 300-400 rpm and tweak my router speed. That has worked well for me. I'm getting a finished cut that does not require sanding - in fact, sanding would roughen it up!!

Sorry your fixture didn't work out :( - I was looking forward to pictures of another DIY CNC build out.

Gary
 
GBCues said:
"I started building cues because I hate my money."

So you're building a CNC machine? You must REALLY hate your money!!

550rpm is plenty fast - assuming you will use a router as the shaper - I had a problem a while back with "barber poling" and I was running at like 1500rpm. I was advised to slow my spin rate down to around 300-400 rpm and tweak my router speed. That has worked well for me. I'm getting a finished cut that does not require sanding - in fact, sanding would roughen it up!!

Sorry your fixture didn't work out :( - I was looking forward to pictures of another DIY CNC build out.

Gary
Click to expand...

Sorry for getting off subject. WWhen you refer to tweaking your router speed are you talking about the travel speed or the tool speed?

Thanks,
 
GBCues said:
"I started building cues because I hate my money."

So you're building a CNC machine? You must REALLY hate your money!!

550rpm is plenty fast - assuming you will use a router as the shaper - I had a problem a while back with "barber poling" and I was running at like 1500rpm. I was advised to slow my spin rate down to around 300-400 rpm and tweak my router speed. That has worked well for me. I'm getting a finished cut that does not require sanding - in fact, sanding would roughen it up!!

Sorry your fixture didn't work out :( - I was looking forward to pictures of another DIY CNC build out.

Gary
Click to expand...

Theres still a chance I will get it. They are trying to hose me something awful on the shipping. Here are some pics from ebay. Sorry if they suck, it wont let me save the larger pics.

Joe
 

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Pay the shipping.

I know, easy for me to say, but shipping that item is going to cost them quite a bit.

If you like to tinker, just think of all the wunnerful machines a guy could make from
that base. Or, how much it would cost to put it together yourself.

Dale(always willing to spend other peoples money)
 
Without knowing the requested shipping, I would agree. That actuator has got to be really heavy and it looks long (oversized) - both gotchas in the shipping department.

They ought to crate it I would think - or really heavy, strong cardboard.

I have been searching for linear actuators like that on eBay - but didn't see that one. You can never know what people will describe something as - especially if they don't have a clue what it is.

But it will be solid and steady and should be really accurate. All good qualities.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
GBCues said:
Without knowing the requested shipping, I would agree. That actuator has got to be really heavy and it looks long (oversized) - both gotchas in the shipping department.

They ought to crate it I would think - or really heavy, strong cardboard.

I have been searching for linear actuators like that on eBay - but didn't see that one. You can never know what people will describe something as - especially if they don't have a clue what it is.

But it will be solid and steady and should be really accurate. All good qualities.

My 2 cents,

Gary
Click to expand...
I really want this base, for sure. A friend of mine can get it shipped for $120 or so, but they are wanting to charge me $275 just for shipping. Its 36" long and it was called a linear stage in the auction. Communication with the seller has been terrible too, but despute all that, like Dale said, it would cost 4 times what I won it for to build it from scratch. I'm gonna keep on it, and hopefully ill still get it :)

Joe
 
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