Those were all facts, don’t be modest
I Wish Tip Makers Would...
- Thread starter lfigueroa
- Start date
I would guess the answer is that not all of us cut them down in the first place. If I use a layered tip, I wear it down; I don't cut it down. Ever since Moori came out with a layered tip, they and others have been fairly thick, to give the player what they want. I still say, let it wear down, rather than cutting it down. A thin layered tip, right out of the box? I think most players might think they got short-changed. Your mileage may vary.
Those were all facts, don’t be modest
It’s just pool cue tips, take a deep breath and you’ll be OK, lol.
Lou Figueroa
I’m sure not everyone cuts them down, maybe just most?
But if the majority is cutting them down…
Lou Figueroa
You can always cut material away, you can't add it back
It takes an extra 30 seconds on a lathe to remove the height you don't want
If the majority are cutting them down, you might just prefer Talisman tips. In my experience, they do start out a bit less tall, and there is a pre-domed option on them. And, a very good tip.
Not saying it’s a hard thing to do, just seems like — if a majority of players are cutting them down — then perhaps they should be made shorter to begin with.
Udderwise you’re just paying for skin you’re gonna lop off.
Lou Figueroa
Yep. I wouldn’t want to ignore buyers who like longer tips, especially since I’m one of ‘em. I like hard tips - don’t know if I’d like a long soft one.
pj
chgo
With layered tips yes it’s not necessary to make them so tall as not many players like that much tip.
But at the end of the day how much does it cost to manufacture a tip?
Maybe it has to do with building consistent tips. It’s hard to build things very thin. Seems punching tips out of 10mm layered hides would be easier and more reliable than punching out 5mm thick tips
So maybe the reason tips are so thick is because of a manufacturing process and it has zero to do with the end user. Just a thought.
Fatboy <——-thinking outside the box…..could be dangerous
But at the end of the day how much does it cost to manufacture a tip?
Maybe it has to do with building consistent tips. It’s hard to build things very thin. Seems punching tips out of 10mm layered hides would be easier and more reliable than punching out 5mm thick tips
So maybe the reason tips are so thick is because of a manufacturing process and it has zero to do with the end user. Just a thought.
Fatboy <——-thinking outside the box…..could be dangerous
Since you're a titan of industry, I know you're familiar with "cost of goods"
Their cost for an extra layer or two of pigskin might be a penny or two per tip, and then they can standardize on a single product
not really. i don't do tip repairs anymore but when i did there were always those that wanted the full tip, even if i recommended to take it down. people come in all sorts too..
Zerksies
Well-known member
I like tall tips. I'm probably taking them off on most guys sweet spots. I ususally wait till i'm at about 2 layers left then i replace. I'm at layer 3 right now.
I've also replaced tips on cues that have had no sidewall and tips that have had extreme mushrooming.
I mean it's the Indian and not the arrow, but the way some of you guys take care of your tips, no wonder some of you miss
I've also replaced tips on cues that have had no sidewall and tips that have had extreme mushrooming.
I mean it's the Indian and not the arrow, but the way some of you guys take care of your tips, no wonder some of you miss
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First of all - the construction and materials of the cue itself determine the BASE DEGREE of hit hardness of any cue. The cue tip degree of hardness either adds or subtracts from the overall felling of the hit on any cue.
I find that really well constructed cues usually accept Triangle or Le Pro type non layered tips and still maintain very acceptable degrees of hit characteristics for me- a nice blend of firmness and control ( Scruggs , Frey) are good examples of this for me.
Tip height is even more subjective as I personaly don’t feel that it affects the hit of a cue. Tip height seems to be, when talking to devoted players, more of a mind game for the individual where the visual appearance affects the person’s perceived but convincing feeling about how that tip height affects their actual play. I prefer a higher tip on my cues but I know that , for me, that is just personal preference that does not actually affect my play once down on the shot.
I find that really well constructed cues usually accept Triangle or Le Pro type non layered tips and still maintain very acceptable degrees of hit characteristics for me- a nice blend of firmness and control ( Scruggs , Frey) are good examples of this for me.
Tip height is even more subjective as I personaly don’t feel that it affects the hit of a cue. Tip height seems to be, when talking to devoted players, more of a mind game for the individual where the visual appearance affects the person’s perceived but convincing feeling about how that tip height affects their actual play. I prefer a higher tip on my cues but I know that , for me, that is just personal preference that does not actually affect my play once down on the shot.
Tips come oversize as they are meant to be trimmed down, both in height and diameter, there's nothing more frustrating than a player showing up with a 13mm shaft and the 13mm tip they brought with them, it makes my job so much harder and in some cases impossible. Some brands like Kamui sells their tips in both 13mm and 14mm. I only stock 14mm for two reasons: 14mm wil fit any shaft out there. If I where to stock 13mm as well, that would mean I would have to stock 32 different Kamui tips instead of 16 (SAI and Athlete does not come in 13mm, so not counting those)
@lfigueroa saying that 13mm should do as most players use skinner shafts is only partially true, most custom cues and beginner cues for the most part have 13mm shafts, so 14mm tips it is
@lfigueroa saying that 13mm should do as most players use skinner shafts is only partially true, most custom cues and beginner cues for the most part have 13mm shafts, so 14mm tips it is
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Well, shoot... I guess you can always glue two tips together.
Plus you'll automatically get that funky line in the middle : -)
Lou Figueroa
I'm a titan of nothing, just a pool player.
My point is, to quote Mrs Lovett, "Seems a downright shame...seems an awful waste."
Lou Figueroa
with apologies to
Stephen Sondheim
This is true.
And I understand some guys wanting full value for the price of the tip and install. It takes all kinds.
Lou Figueroa
Wait a minute, lol!
Aren't you the guy that thinks about the weight of his watch affecting his play?
Lou Figueroa
but the tip
don't matter?!
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Here's some:
https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/new-bulletproof-synthetic-playing-tips.567535/
At least I think so; not leather, but who knows, they might have gelatin or keratin or beeswax in them. Buyer beware!
PS I think they come in at 14mm
I concur! I was taught to use the 15 on a 13mm shaft. Sometimes the perimeter of a tip can be a little flakey, so a larger tip cut down provides the best chance of a good solid tip.
I use Triangle now, after starting out with Le Pro ages ago. Le Pro tips back in the day required sorting for quality. I have yet to reject a Triangle tip. I tried a couple of layered tips but have yet to find a layered tip that doesn't occasionally leave a fly speck of the glue on whitey. When that happens it means the tip broke traction with whitey when the glue layer transfered. Equipment failure is an annoying miss.
The height of the leather brings to mind a pencil errasor. The tall one deforms or deflects with side pressure. My experience is that my cue tip plays best just before its worn out. A quarter inch side wall looks dandy but the sixteenth inch side wall is where I get the most predictable traction.