I'd like to suggest that you try this rack....

[Bob 14:1]

This rack first surfaced in this thread: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=392742&highlight=ball+rack+triangle via a post by The Hulk/John.

I ordered one and I am very pleased indeed. If your idea of a good rack is tossing in the balls, gently rolling it into position, knuckling for tightness and then easily removing the rack; then this meets all of your criteria.

The resulting rack is tight no matter what position is used, or even if the rack is jelly side up or not. Perhaps I just got a good one, or it may be the combination of the balls, cloth and table, but I simply cannot fail to get literally all balls touching.

It's made of wood and finished in a dark "stain" with glued corners cut to a very close fit. I suspect over time that this finish will eventually chip much like the assorted colors on the more rounded corner low end racks commonly found at my local billiard retailers; the guys that'll sell you a table and also a spa if you need one.

My wife has been very indulgent of my hobby, but knocking a huge hole in $100 for a rack just didn't make sense; even to myself. Bear in mind that this costs 1/5th to 1/10th the cost of a well known brand of metal ball rack.

Just last Saturday I saw a round cornered rack locally for $14.95 here near Denver. My table came with one of these, and they're just total junk. My two greatest concerns about my former rack was its total inability to set the second row, and it was also so small and tight to the cluster, that one needed nerves of steel to remove the rack without disturbing the stack.

Mine was $11.99 delivered to my door via two day Priority Mail. This is arguably the best twelve bucks I've ever spent.

Absolutely no affiliation with the seller, and the usual disclaimers apply... Here's a link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261269255438

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[The Renfro]

Looks like a good price.... also resembles the actual diamond rack....

 

[Bob 14:1]

Here's the only nomenclature. Looks like the guy makes these himself. I really don't know. The real issue is how in the world can he make and ship these for a profit? I also must admit that the side recesses might be convenient, but hey, you'll spend twice this amount on appetizers and a couple before dinner drinks... :shrug:

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[Mooneye]

You talked me into trying one.

 

[Hits 'em Hard]

Is that two ball touching in front of the rack too? Please post a pic of the head ball in the rack.

 

[Bob 14:1]

Is that two ball touching in front of the rack too? Please post a pic of the head ball in the rack.

Yes, the 2 is touching the front apex without any slack. All my images show the balls totally forward, such as they would be just prior to your nudging the rack slightly forward and removing it. The head ball is the 2, with the 1 & 5 set snugly at the ends of the back row. I can't manage to show it any better than I've already tried to do so in the first image. The 2 is set squarely against the inner flat facing. Perhaps John's photo in the first link shows this; I dunno.

 

[Paul Dayton]

From what I can see, if you're playing straight pool, everything would be in the rack

 

[Bob 14:1]

You talked me into trying one.

Great minds think alike! :wink: Beautiful Anniversary by the way, but then I'm a tad biased... :thumbup:

Note how the rack corner sticks out in my drop pocket DC. The rack appears to be nearly black and will not match your rails, but hey, for the price of a Happy Meal, whad'ya want?

 

[Hits 'em Hard]

Yes, the 2 is touching the front apex without any slack. All my images show the balls totally forward, such as they would be just prior to your nudging the rack slightly forward and removing it. The head ball is the 2, with the 1 & 5 set snugly at the ends of the back row. I can't manage to show it any better than I've already tried to do so in the first image. The 2 is set squarely against the inner flat facing. Perhaps John's photo in the first link shows this; I dunno.

Well that's a bummer. Small design flaw which actually causes big problems in the end.

 

[Bob 14:1]

From what I can see, if you're playing straight pool, everything would be in the rack

Would this not be the case also when using the Diamond or Delta product? I've been waiting to outline the rack 'til I got one I liked. Seems like a moot point. No? I've never used a Diamond or Delta so I truly don't know the answer, I guess...:shrug:

 

[Bob 14:1]

Well that's a bummer. Small design flaw which actually causes big problems in the end.

I guess I don't follow. Please elaborate before I go ahead and mark the rack on my cloth.

Thanks...:wink:

 

[Hits 'em Hard]

I guess I don't follow. Please elaborate before I go ahead and mark the rack on my cloth.

Thanks...:wink:

If the rack is going to be used for primarily 14.1 there really shouldn't be a problem as the head ball is normally not in the rack. But when trying to get a tight rack, that third contact point is actually working against you after the rack wears in. It pushes back on the head ball causing it to push back against the rest of the rack. It'll help accentuate gaps that could possibly form. Even a 1/16" gap is sufficient, but touching is unacceptable. I'm sure someone else could explain it differently and maybe be more clear.

 

[RFranklin]

when's dinner

I'll give it a shot but only in that table. :thumbup:

 

[3andstop]

That seems very reasonable, and it looks nice. I may pick one up. Thanks for the heads up.

I mark my old wooden rack for front and up ... and ... determine where it needs tweaking to tighten up the balls and I put a small strip of painters tape inside it at that point. I'm a cheapo. :thumbup:

 

[Bob 14:1]

That seems very reasonable, and it looks nice. I may pick one up. Thanks for the heads up.

I mark my old wooden rack for front and up ... and ... determine where it needs tweaking to tighten up the balls and I put a small strip of painters tape inside it at that point. I'm a cheapo. :thumbup:

No tweaking here. As mentioned, it racks wonderfully tight regardless of its orientation. If it ever fails, breaks in too much, walks away or falls apart, I can buy c. 4 to 8 more for the price of the, admittedly nice, but in my opinion, overly-priced alternatives.

Whatever; it,s a ball rack. I wasn't buying a car or house here...:wink:

Which reminded me, if memory serves, 3M Blue Painter's tape is c. five bucks a pop!!

 

[macguy]

This rack first surfaced in this thread: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=392742&highlight=ball+rack+triangle via a post by The Hulk/John.

I ordered one and I am very pleased indeed. If your idea of a good rack is tossing in the balls, gently rolling it into position, knuckling for tightness and then easily removing the rack; then this meets all of your criteria.

The resulting rack is tight no matter what position is used, or even if the rack is jelly side up or not. Perhaps I just got a good one, or it may be the combination of the balls, cloth and table, but I simply cannot fail to get literally all balls touching.

It's made of wood and finished in a dark "stain" with glued corners cut to a very close fit. I suspect over time that this finish will eventually chip much like the assorted colors on the more rounded corner low end racks commonly found at my local billiard retailers; the guys that'll sell you a table and also a spa if you need one.

My wife has been very indulgent of my hobby, but knocking a huge hole in $100 for a rack just didn't make sense; even to myself. Bear in mind that this costs 1/5th to 1/10th the cost of a well known brand of metal ball rack.

Just last Saturday I saw a round cornered rack locally for $14.95 here near Denver. My table came with one of these, and they're just total junk. My two greatest concerns about my former rack was its total inability to set the second row, and it was also so small and tight to the cluster, that one needed nerves of steel to remove the rack without disturbing the stack.

Mine was $11.99 delivered to my door via two day Priority Mail. This is arguably the best twelve bucks I've ever spent.

Absolutely no affiliation with the seller, and the usual disclaimers apply... Here's a link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261269255438

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Nice rack for the money

 

[3andstop]

No tweaking here. As mentioned, it racks wonderfully tight regardless of its orientation. If it ever fails, breaks in too much, walks away or falls apart, I can buy c. 4 to 8 more for the price of the, admittedly nice, but in my opinion, overly-priced alternatives.

Whatever; it,s a ball rack. I wasn't buying a car or house here...:wink:

Which reminded me, if memory serves, 3M Blue Painter's tape is c. five bucks a pop!!

LOL ... ya but I've been using the same roll since I was 12 and I'm 65 now! In another year I think it will loose it's stick and then I'll return it for a new one. :grin:

 

[Rip]

Thanks for the heads up on the rack. Been using this old wooden rack made by Woodworks for the Willards tournaments a while back. I just placed my order for the one you posted about and look forward to using it soon!

 

[Bob 14:1]

LOL ... ya but I've been using the same roll since I was 12 and I'm 65 now! In another year I think it will loose it's stick and then I'll return it for a new one. :grin:

Ya still got two years to go. I was 67 in February and just last month did likewise.

Thanks for the heads up on the rack. Been using this old wooden rack made by Woodworks for the Willards tournaments a while back. I just placed my order for the one you posted about and look forward to using it soon!

I truly hope you're as pleased as I was. :smile:

 

[PaulieB]

If the rack is going to be used for primarily 14.1 there really shouldn't be a problem as the head ball is normally not in the rack. But when trying to get a tight rack, that third contact point is actually working against you after the rack wears in. It pushes back on the head ball causing it to push back against the rest of the rack. It'll help accentuate gaps that could possibly form. Even a 1/16" gap is sufficient, but touching is unacceptable. I'm sure someone else could explain it differently and maybe be more clear.

Yeah, the 2 side contacts at the front is all that you need. If you are hitting the straight ahead front contact it can cause problems. A bit of sanding can take care of that with just about any rack though.