If Diamond tables didn't bank short...
- Thread starter realkingcobra
- Start date
The only thing diamond tables need is better pockets on the professional. the "mesh" style leather its terrible... I would like to see pockets like gabriels have....they fit 15 balls and dont leave your knuckles torn up after playing steady.
Sorry, Diamond has already changed their pockets on the Professionals...you're a little late
Glen
I would like to see them go back to their old rails, not the Accufast? ones that play like a new pinball flipper. Also not a fan of the blue cloth that they use at the Derby, other than that don't change a thing.
Diamond has never used Accufast cushions, and rails that play that fast...are wrong, and the Simonis 860HR Tour blue...is here to stay...so I can't help you in your request at all buddy
Diamond has never used Accufast cushions, and rails that play that fast...are wrong, and the Simonis 860HR Tour blue...is here to stay...so I can't help you in your request at all buddy
I think I'm commenting on the wrong table. I have a 15 or so year old 4 1/2 X 9. The rails are way different than the newer rails, whatever the name of them. The newer ones are so springy(Derby tables) I stay away from the rails as much as possible.
Only complaint I have about the Diamond table is, I don't have one in my house.
I've got a 10+ year old Diamond Pro, 4 1/2*9 and I love it.. Pro cut pocket, just shy of 4.5" and I could not ask for a better table.. The rails have been replace once a few years ago due to some defect.. I for one love the tourney blue cloth, it's my favorite by far!
I don't even notice the balls banking short anymore since it's all I play on..
I don't even notice the balls banking short anymore since it's all I play on..
My only complaint is the black marks on the balls.I love mine.I have the TV
table from last years DCC.Is there anything I can do about the black marks.Will the ball cleaning machine take em off ?? Thanks for the info.
I know your the best!! John B.
What Diamonds need!
Having owned three Diamond tables, and now with a 9 ft Pro Am, there is only one thing I believe Diamond needs to do.... Very simply, find more King Cobras! This guy is better than great, he is incredible. As for Diamonds banking short, that is the most rediculous statement I ever heard. Ask Jason Miller, or Gregg or Brumbach or Piggy! These are the best bank players playing today and all one needs to do is sit back and watch the show when these guys face off in a banking duel on a Diamond Pro Am. As for the looks of the table, again, I put it right up at the top!
Nuff said already.
Cross Side Larry
Having owned three Diamond tables, and now with a 9 ft Pro Am, there is only one thing I believe Diamond needs to do.... Very simply, find more King Cobras! This guy is better than great, he is incredible. As for Diamonds banking short, that is the most rediculous statement I ever heard. Ask Jason Miller, or Gregg or Brumbach or Piggy! These are the best bank players playing today and all one needs to do is sit back and watch the show when these guys face off in a banking duel on a Diamond Pro Am. As for the looks of the table, again, I put it right up at the top!
Nuff said already.
Cross Side Larry
You can make a homemade ball polisher for under $50 and yes, it will take off the black marks (you can use Novus 1 or others have used Brillianize as the polisher - they work great!). I've got the Diamond pro and made one of these and it works great. It is also hilarious to watch the contraption work. You can do a search on here and find detailed instructions on how to make one. I jazzed mine up a bit by making ball separators as well.
I play on 7' SmartTables for league (with the coin slot disabled on them all) and have these few things:
1) Option for drop pockets, or, some sort of insert you can buy as an option to make it into one...
2) Make the bridge rack standard (and at least have your website list the bridge rack and the ball counting rack as available, maybe even purchaseable on the website)
3) Option for 1" shorter legs (my wife is 5'1" and that 1" higher makes a difference for her)
4) As they are mainly commercial tables, would be nice if there was some sort of window or something on the base where a mechanic could put their card so you know who set up the table! This for many reasons, for picking someone to do your home work based on work on tables you play on, and so you know that someone may be a hack and not want to keep playing on tables they work on.
5) When the smart table is being used as non-coinop, have the cue ball still go to the cue ball return on the front of the table (or at least the option to do so). I can't count how many times people keep going to that hole to grab the cue ball when it's at the other side of the table. Or possibly make an insert that goes into it. Of course, every now and then the cue ball pops out the front hole... So, the insert could be a bad idea...
Just off the top of my head...
Brian
1) Option for drop pockets, or, some sort of insert you can buy as an option to make it into one...
2) Make the bridge rack standard (and at least have your website list the bridge rack and the ball counting rack as available, maybe even purchaseable on the website)
3) Option for 1" shorter legs (my wife is 5'1" and that 1" higher makes a difference for her)
4) As they are mainly commercial tables, would be nice if there was some sort of window or something on the base where a mechanic could put their card so you know who set up the table! This for many reasons, for picking someone to do your home work based on work on tables you play on, and so you know that someone may be a hack and not want to keep playing on tables they work on.
5) When the smart table is being used as non-coinop, have the cue ball still go to the cue ball return on the front of the table (or at least the option to do so). I can't count how many times people keep going to that hole to grab the cue ball when it's at the other side of the table. Or possibly make an insert that goes into it. Of course, every now and then the cue ball pops out the front hole... So, the insert could be a bad idea...
Just off the top of my head...
Brian
More RKC - yes please.
cant ask for a shorter table. lol
I want a taller table because Im 6'3". next we'll have tables that adjust every shot to the players height? No.
I want a taller table because Im 6'3". next we'll have tables that adjust every shot to the players height? No.
I agree with the 10' option,I wish it could happen. I also would loike to see more stain option for the dymondwood. It seems like they are all imprenated oak. Couldn't you use other impregnated woods?
What actually gives the rails the wood grain look is the Dymondwood is layered, stacked up like a deck of cards. Then when the rails go through the moulder, the cutter knives cut across the layers and give leave that grain look to the rails, kind of like spreading that stacked up deck of cards off to one side. So, know one knows what the rails are going to look like until after they've been passed through the moulder. Hope that helps understand how the Dymondwood rails get there look of wood grain, every wood grain you see is actually one thickness of the Dymondwood.
70's platform shoes?....and a butcher knife....naaa...that just wouldn't be right....would it?
