I'm a little teapot . . .

GBCues

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
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One of the things we do for players is to remove dents from their shafts and butts - usually a relativly simple fix.

But as the dent gets shallower and shallower, it gets harder to find/feel.

I'm pretty leary of putting marks on customer's shafts, so I have been depending on feel. Just wondering if any of you guys have found a safe way to mark the dent that comes out easily after it is once again flush with the surrounding wood.

Thanks in advance,

Gary
 
I go by feel. Initially if the shaft has like a million dents in it, I use a pencil and circle them lightly.
Depends if I use a wet bandage or the steam gun. The pencil marks go away but if you can't feel them, you can't see them.
I'm a little teapot
Short and stout
Here is my handle
Here is my spout

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GBCues said:
One of the things we do for players is to remove dents from their shafts and butts - usually a relativly simple fix.

But as the dent gets shallower and shallower, it gets harder to find/feel.

I'm pretty leary of putting marks on customer's shafts, so I have been depending on feel. Just wondering if any of you guys have found a safe way to mark the dent that comes out easily after it is once again flush with the surrounding wood.

Thanks in advance,

Gary
Click to expand...

Gary,

When I get a dent that is deep but not a sharp angular dent, I sand the dent with a folded piece of 320 to open the grain in that pin point area. Then I flat sand the entire shaft down a few mills.

I then put a small wet paper towel on the dent area and hold my iron on the wet paper and keep wetting the paper and repeat a few times. Let leave the paper on there a few minutes, then burnish dry with a dry paper towel. The dent will now be a slight pimple on the shaft because it was formally compressed when the shaft was flat sanded.

Lightly sand the shaft until the pimple meets the shaft contour elevation.

Up sand to 1500, seal, burnish, wax or what ever you do after that.

Rick
 
HDR10 said:
blue painters tape and a hole punch.....double/triple punch if needed
Click to expand...

HDR,

I sort of thought about trying to use painter's tape to mark it, but the idea of a hole punch didn't enter my mind. I'll have to try that.

Thanks

Gary
 
scdiveteam said:
Gary,

When I get a dent that is deep but not a sharp angular dent, I sand the dent with a folded piece of 320 to open the grain in that pin point area. Then I flat sand the entire shaft down a few mills.

I then put a small wet paper towel on the dent area and hold my iron on the wet paper and keep wetting the paper and repeat a few times. Let leave the paper on there a few minutes, then burnish dry with a dry paper towel. The dent will now be a slight pimple on the shaft because it was formally compressed when the shaft was flat sanded.

Lightly sand the shaft until the pimple meets the shaft contour elevation.

Up sand to 1500, seal, burnish, wax or what ever you do after that.

Rick
Click to expand...

Rick,

Thanks! I knew about the soldering iron and wet paper technique. I get a little scared of scorching the customer's cue, so I haven't tried it. I should try it on one of my own cues, but to be honest, I haven't dented any of my own. It's probably more luck than anything else.

Gary
 
I don't mark them. I do it all by feel right on the lathe. When you can no longer feel any dents that need steam you are done. When I feel it I hold my finger there to see where the steam needs to go. then I test feel the shaft for more dents. Usually there are more than one dent I am dealing with.
 
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