Industrial Cue

Ale Golem

Ale Golem

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What is the feasibility of turning this...
IndustrialCue.jpg


IndustrialCueRearButt.jpg


IndustrialCueForeButt.jpg


into something that could actually win a few games? Mind you I'm not talking an overhaul on an existing cue but the possibility of building something from scratch with the same minimalist/industrial feel? All exposed metal and plain wood, any decorative design would be simple patterns burned into the wood. I'm not sure about the wrap, I have a feeling plain copper wire would tarnish too easily from the oils on my hand.
 
I noticed in the main forum that you may have somebody to work on this. I find it very interesting.

I don't think that cue was wrapped with copper. I think it was actually round leather cord. At any rate, if you want that look, the round leather cord will get it for you.

MSuraiya3MM_Full.jpg

http://www.leathercordusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C1

Your "prototype":
IndustrialCueRearButt.jpg


I would say 0.5mm for a fine look or 1.0/1.5/2.0mm for that course look. You could even go thicker if you wanted it very coarse looking.

Link for Leather Cord: http://www.leathercordusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C1

I am going to follow along with your project. I hope you post any updates in the gallery if you get progress pictures.


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Chopdoc said:
I noticed in the main forum that you may have somebody to work on this. I find it very interesting.

I don't think that cue was wrapped with copper. I think it was actually round leather cord. At any rate, if you want that look, the round leather cord will get it for you.

MSuraiya3MM_Full.jpg

http://www.leathercordusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C1

Your "prototype":
IndustrialCueRearButt.jpg


I would say 0.5mm for a fine look or 1.0/1.5/2.0mm for that course look. You could even go thicker if you wanted it very coarse looking.

Link for Leather Cord: http://www.leathercordusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C1

I am going to follow along with your project. I hope you post any updates in the gallery if you get progress pictures.


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Click to expand...

I'm wondering how that leather cord would look if treated like a stacked wrap? In other words, buy the cord a little oversized, wind it on pretty tight, finish, then sand it down and finish again.

What'cha think?

Gary
 
I suppose it could be pressed and/or sanded. I have thought about experimenting with it...maybe send some to a CM to see what he could do with it.

I thought the 1mm stuff might press down enough into a standard wrap groove...but I don't know. Maybe dampen it a little for pressing? Leather works better damp for such things.

Also, it's available in a lot of colors that would go well with a lot of woods and phenolic type materials I think.

I have other ideas for materials too.
 
I've used the black cord for repairing chalkers that had used thread that wears out.

You can use a flat surface and pound it as flat as you want.

For that purpose, I think you could use it as a small stack wrap.
Might look kind of neato.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
I've used the black cord for repairing chalkers that had used thread that wears out.

You can use a flat surface and pound it as flat as you want.

For that purpose, I think you could use it as a small stack wrap.
Might look kind of neato.
Click to expand...

I for one would like to see it attempted. :smile:

It could be not only an interesting wrap, but also functional.


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You might be able to pound the 6 MM cord pretty flat.

For the length of cord that I bought from the fabric shop for stringing chalkers, it would be cost prohibitive to use for a wrap. The price for cord at the link you posted is more reasonable. You could justify trying it.

Even when you pound it, the edges remain a little round so it would give the wrap a different look and maybe feel than a stack.

Its already dyed and flattening doesn't affect it.
 
I was able to get a hold of a cue maker to start discussing this and after a few eMails he quoted me a $700-$900 price tag. I honestly figured I could get a single wood cue with no intricate inlay work done for $200 or less. Maybe I'm just underestimating the cost but does this...

-Single wood butt with no splicing (Never discussed type)
-Typical inlay patterns, like floating points or barbells, would be done via wood burning techniques
-Copper wire wrap (Inlaid)
-Exposed weight bolt

...seem like a thousand dollar project that would take half a year to complete? Honestly, the estimated time didn't bother me but talk about sticker shock, especially from a cue maker for whom I can't find even one review.

Set me straight, am I just cheap and delusional? I'll accept that I may have wildly misjudged the market I'm looking into.
 
It's art. An artist can name his price...if you don't like it...look elsewhere or maybe try to bargain with him.

It's totally custom. I don't think the price out of line necessarily, but I also think you might get it done cheaper. It does not seem terribly complicated from a technical standpoint.

Did you try Prulhiere?

He did the steampunk cue I linked to before. He is winding down his cue making but it wouldn't hurt to ask. I know his prices have been very good in general. Might want to give it a shot.



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Chopdoc said:
Did you try Prulhiere?

He did the steampunk cue I linked to before. He is winding down his cue making but it wouldn't hurt to ask. I know his prices have been very good in general. Might want to give it a shot.
Click to expand...
I just got the price quote last night, I was going to talk to Prulhiere next.
 
Ale Golem said:
I was able to get a hold of a cue maker to start discussing this and after a few eMails he quoted me a $700-$900 price tag. I honestly figured I could get a single wood cue with no intricate inlay work done for $200 or less. Maybe I'm just underestimating the cost but does this...

-Single wood butt with no splicing (Never discussed type)
-Typical inlay patterns, like floating points or barbells, would be done via wood burning techniques
-Copper wire wrap (Inlaid)
-Exposed weight bolt

...seem like a thousand dollar project that would take half a year to complete? Honestly, the estimated time didn't bother me but talk about sticker shock, especially from a cue maker for whom I can't find even one review.

Set me straight, am I just cheap and delusional? I'll accept that I may have wildly misjudged the market I'm looking into.
Click to expand...
Different guys charge different amounts, but one thing is for sure, a one piece butt is hard to do. I'm making a one piece cocobolo butt, and I taper it every 3 or 4 weeks, and so far, its had a LOT of movement. It might end up being cut up and used for other things. If you are intent on have g a one piece butt, it could take a year to find one that stays straight.

Joe
 
Just a thought, but why tell the cue maker it has to be one piece?

If it has a handle in it you couldn't tell since it will have a wrap. Why not let the CM decide the best way to skin this cat?



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It looks to me that wrap is just laying on top of the cue, and there is no wrap groove to recess it in.
I'd just remove and toss it.
With all the other metal on it, isn't that butt really heavy?
 
howiesatwork said:
It looks to me that wrap is just laying on top of the cue, and there is no wrap groove to recess it in.
I'd just remove and toss it.
With all the other metal on it, isn't that butt really heavy?
Click to expand...


He does not have the cue. He's using the look for an idea to have one made.


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Different. When I look at this im thinkin a used Schmelke would be a good start. They used a huge metal reverse pin joint, were generally oversized painted one piece maple butts that could be sanded or turned down. 40 or 50 bucks should get you a nice starting point and you could do whatever you want to give it the industrial mods. Might be the way to go...
 
Chopdoc said:
Just a thought, but why tell the cue maker it has to be one piece?

If it has a handle in it you couldn't tell since it will have a wrap. Why not let the CM decide the best way to skin this cat?
Click to expand...
I honestly thought that a single piece of wood would be less expensive and labor intensive for the cue maker.

Sunchaser said:
Different. When I look at this im thinkin a used Schmelke would be a good start. They used a huge metal reverse pin joint, were generally oversized painted one piece maple butts that could be sanded or turned down. 40 or 50 bucks should get you a nice starting point and you could do whatever you want to give it the industrial mods. Might be the way to go...
Click to expand...
Intriguing idea.
 
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