Installed cue tips falling off

[BarenbruggeCues]

Preparation, I suspect, is the culprit 80% of the time for failure. 19% of the time is more than likely the glue being used. Not the type, but the age and exposure once the glue container has been cracked open. The other 1% is incompatibility. Some ferrule materials are just fickle to get glue adhesion too.

Scratch, cross hatch, drill holes, do whatever you feel works best for you but CA glues like smooth, flat surfaces for the best adhesion on a non-porous object. If you are gluing a porous object to a non-porous object and have a failure, the prep is likely the culprit but refer to the first paragraph of this post for further information.


disclaimer: I do not use CA glue for tips on my cues.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

OK, set it up for me. Get me a ticket and a plane ride.

Your second sentence is not true, for me and many others. I was sicker than a dog and know many who died.

Funny you'd say such a thing. with all the evidence coming forward now.


Jeff Livingston

Typical......me, me, me.

Without freedom of speech, we wouldn't know who the idiots are.

 

[PracticeChampion]

Preparation, I suspect, is the culprit 80% of the time for failure. 19% of the time is more than likely the glue being used. Not the type, but the age and exposure once the glue container has been cracked open. The other 1% is incompatibility. Some ferrule materials are just fickle to get glue adhesion too.

Scratch, cross hatch, drill holes, do whatever you feel works best for you but CA glues like smooth, flat surfaces for the best adhesion on a non-porous object. If you are gluing a porous object to a non-porous object and have a failure, the prep is likely the culprit but refer to the first paragraph of this post for further information.


disclaimer: I do not use CA glue for tips on my cues.

What glue you using?

 

[SSDiver2112]

Preparation, I suspect, is the culprit 80% of the time for failure. 19% of the time is more than likely the glue being used. Not the type, but the age and exposure once the glue container has been cracked open. The other 1% is incompatibility. Some ferrule materials are just fickle to get glue adhesion too.

Scratch, cross hatch, drill holes, do whatever you feel works best for you but CA glues like smooth, flat surfaces for the best adhesion on a non-porous object. If you are gluing a porous object to a non-porous object and have a failure, the prep is likely the culprit but refer to the first paragraph of this post for further information.


disclaimer: I do not use CA glue for tips on my cues.

What glue you using?

Also curious about what non CA glue you are using too. Epoxy maybe?

I experimented a bit this weekend (crude test and not overly scientific). I'm not going to buy every glue out there, but I see Locktite CA Gel (LT) and Gorilla glue CA Gel (GG) brought up mostly. I saw a couple claims that Original Gorilla poly glue (OGG) was more reliable for them, so I tried that one too. I just started with a tip glued directly to the end of a dowel.

LT and GG quick and easy to install (duh), and you could trim it the same day.
OGG was more challenging (i.e. PITA) because it takes a long time to set. It expands as it cures so you have to clamp it for 24 hours. The tip slips around as you are clamping it so you have to be very careful. Then you have to wait until tomorrow to trim it. OK it is not as easy as CA to install, but not devastating if it does work better.

IMO most failures probably happen due to shearing forces. I put them in a vise and hit the tip at an angle with a hammer.

• OGG was the first to pop off. It only held in the center of the tip and tore the leather there.
• GG popped next, but the dowel split off from the back side along the direction of the force and tore some of the leather from other part of the tip.
• LT popped last, obviously. It popped off clean without tearing the leather.

Conclusion from this simple test:

• OGG did not hold up well and was not worth the extra time and effort.
• GG seemed to be holding up as well as LT and may have had the same or similar results had the wood not failed. This shows the reason and value of the ferrule.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Here is mine. It is square. No light shows through with razor blade against so it is flat.

This was the first capped ferrule I did so maybe the hole made a slight nipple or dent that made it fail???

View attachment 632440

Those cheap plastic capped ferrules are trouble .
I suggest using a backer .
Predator calls them vulcan . Which is just a fancy word for vulcanized paper .

 

[chefjeff]

Typical......me, me, me.

Without freedom of speech, we wouldn't know who the idiots are.

YOU FIRST brought up ME and my opinion.

Now we know.


Jeff Livingston

 

[JoeyInCali]

Hi,

After facing and flat sanding your tip on your sanding board, use 100grit paper and cross hatch the end of the ferrule by hand with the lathe off at 0 and 90 degrees. If you are putting the tip on by hand, it may weaken your bond if you are moving it around a little to get it concentric. Call Brian at Unique Products and buy a tipalator to mount it in your tailstock chuck. A thin film of CA on the tip and the ferrule with a toothpic then just press the tail stock on the the ferrule while turning your chuck a little by hand. Then a few lbs. Of pressure with the quill.

If you use Bob Smith thick CA and the above procedure it will never fail and save you a ton of $$$. You have a lot of working time with the thick. I have done over 5000 tip replacement like that and you can count on it.

Plus stop buying that locktite gel in those little containers. Too expensive!!!! I am not saying it is not good glue. Bob Smith CA is 20 bucks for 8 ounces on Amazon. One bottle lasts forever.

I think it's already been settled scuffing the crap out of the ferrule face does not really help when using CA.

EIGHT OUNCES of glue is way too much . Unless you're doing a tournament and will be doing a ton of installs in a few days .
You live in Las Vegas ? You better have that bottle in a ziplock and store that in the fridge after using .

Even the .1 oz kind go bad fast in summer . Might be good for 10 uses then throw them away .
They are NOT THAT expensive . Please, $6 for three pieces . 20 cents per tip at 10 installs .

 

[Fatboy]

Those cheap plastic capped ferrules are trouble .
I suggest using a backer .
Predator calls them vulcan . Which is just a fancy word for vulcanized paper .

I like the slip on tips, I use them on all my szams. I’m

 

[JoeyInCali]

I like the slip on tips, I use them on all my szams. I’m

I'm surprised you don't have the screw on ferrule.

 

[Fatboy]

I'm surprise you don't have the screw on ferrule.

I cross threaded it

Can’t mess up the slip-ons

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

For 20 plus yrs I've glued my tips on with plain ole yellow glue.
Titebond red - Titebond blue... doesn't matter.
Proper prep, like any job, is nessacary.

disclaimer: MY cues...melamine style ferrules. Glue the ferrules on with the same glue.
You'll never see any dark glue lines at the maple/ferrule on my cues if I've done everything correctly.
Ever, because the ferrule will never come loose.

 

[Gear101]

I'm guessing you got a bad tube of glue..... I'd toose it and get a different one.

 

[Dave38]

there are alot of cheap asian cues out there now that use a ferrule material that is a high temp polymer. Because of that trait, most CA's and other glues do not stick well or long to them.You can score the sh#$ outta them and still pop it off. Try CA40 from 3M or Dap rapid fuse...they are both the bomb...IMHO....BUT PREP IS THE KEY first and foremost..... I have posted the procedure multiple times here.... look it up

 

[SSDiver2112]

For 20 plus yrs I've glued my tips on with plain ole yellow glue.
Titebond red - Titebond blue... doesn't matter.
Proper prep, like any job, is nessacary.

disclaimer: MY cues...melamine style ferrules. Glue the ferrules on with the same glue.
You'll never see any dark glue lines at the maple/ferrule on my cues if I've done everything correctly.
Ever, because the ferrule will never come loose.

That is very interesting. I hadn't heard anyone ever mention using plain wood glue for the tips. It was my understanding that the glue is super strong for a wood to wood bond, but not good for bonding to "plastic". Is your disclaimer stating that you only recommend wood glue for melamine ferrules and not others?

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

No offense to you personally........
I've told people on this forum for yrs I've done it this way. Nobody wants to do any research or mock up testing anymore.
Wood, paper, leather, melamine and a host of other materials will hold fine with titebond.
Do some simple mock ups and throw them in various situations for a month or 12 and see what results you compile.
I don't fully trust anything but time proven techniques and materials.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I've been bouncing this to the cement floor. At an angle and sides.
Has not.come off.

 

[pescadoman]

I've been bouncing this to the cement floor. At an angle and sides.
Has not.come off.

Ariel taught you how to bounce shafts?

 

[JoeyInCali]

Ariel taught you how to bounce shafts?

Zylr did.
Martin did it . Tad did it.
This is just to test the glue bond on that poly tip.

 

[Floyd_M]

Tip A
I used my photo inspection software on it. Seems to have a glue anomaly inside the smaller RED pie. If you still have these unglued, inspect with a light source at a very steep angle. If you see any shiny area(s), you found your problem.

Tip 'B'
I've done this around 5 years ago. It's fine for breaking, it'll POP the cue ball nicely but does not jump easily. You'll fine that clear tip is a bit soft for jump shots. That's not to say you can't, it's rather difficult. I had very good luck using Loctite Ultra Gel.
.

 

[Rodney]

I could be wrong but it looks like there’s too much glue. I’m not sure if that would cause it to pop off.