Installing a ferrule - Elementary my dear

Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
For some maybe. Back to the basics.....

Seems like every ferrule I have installed lately has a fricking glue line. What gives.... what am I doing wrong. They didn't use to be like that, I haven't changed anything.

So.... what is the trick to installing a ferrule with NO glue line ???? :confused:
 
-make sure you are using a sharp cutter
-make sure the cutter is set to the proper center height.
-make sure the face on the shaft is cut clean and perpendicular.
-make sure the face on the ferrule is cut clean and perpendicular.
-glue viscosity and type can make a difference.
 
Check...
Check...
Check...
Check...

I'm using 5 minute epoxy and haven't changed epoxy in 4-5 years. This seems to be just recent. What's the best glue/epoxy to use for ferrules ??
 
Lee,
Ditto all the above.
In past discussions of this topic, some guys even pointed out they were careful not to get glue on the edges of the shaft and ferrule, just on the sides of the bore and the tenon and that was how they eliminated the glue line.
If your using a capped ferrule make sure the tenon is shorter than the bore into the ferrule and leave room for the glue.
You might be getting some hydraulic pressure as the glue sets, pushing the ferrule out as it sets. Epoxy warms up as it sets, exacerbating the problem.
Just a couple of extra thoughts,
Gary
 
Atlas sells a white pigment paste.

Do the things everyone suggested concerning a sharp tool ect.

Before mixing your 5 min just touch the tip of a tooth pic in to the pigment a get a glob the size of a pin head. Mix it in the resin first then mix the two parts.

All you need it to be is slightly white kinda translucent. No too white.

Install the ferrule. Glue line gone... Poof!!

PS. You can also use white India Ink. I prefer the pigment. I bought my jar of pigment from Atlas 11 years ago on my first order and today there is 2/3s of the jar left and the material is still perfect. India ink separates and gets hard on the bottom over time.

Rick
 
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Here is a pic of the lathe bit. It's brand new, just changed it about a week ago.
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Thanks for all the other replies and suggestions. I'll reply in more depth when I'm not on my phone. Just wanted to let everyone know I greatly appreciate the replies.
 
What are you using to push the ferrule onto the tenon and hold it there?

I guess I assume it is a hole-through ferrule.
 
On the hole through ferrules I use my tail stock to push it and hold it.

This particular incident is a threaded G10 ferrule/tip combo.
 
I like 5 min epoxy and white india ink............ mix up the epoxy and then throw the mixing stick away.... dip a new stick in the india ink and mix in the white pigment.... I find that this works well


Kim
 
If you have a glue line, there is an issue somewhere. Dyeing the glue only masks it. Find out what is happening and tweak your procedure.
 
Did you make the hole facing the shaft a hair larger than the rest? When you face off to the tennon you do not go 100% to the tennon and this will cause it not to seat properly.
 
When I cut a tenon of any size, I stop .020" short of the intended cut, back out, dial over the final .020" then face to the zero point of the tenon diameter. It gives me the best and truest face cut.
 
Switch to good super sharp high speed steel bit to face the shoulder. Or regrind that carbide bit. That type of grind is not sharp enough for wood. Face it off with at least 1300 RPMs. Then use super clear five minute epoxy and fill the ferrule up and put glue on the front 3/4 of the tenon with no glue touching the shoulder. Let sit a couple of minutes to thicken up a little and then finish installing the ferrule all the way to the shoulder. This gives the glue very little time to soak into the shoulder and eliminates the glue stain you are experiencing.
 
Try a triangle cutter with a smaller radius tpg 221 works well, last cut take a small cut on and draw cutter out slowly, also tilt the cutter tip slightly to your left when drawing out for perfect face. Jeff
 
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