The Radial's pilot is .310" dia. x .250" Long.
There's 1" of thread length on the bottom threads of a Radial.
That leaves 3/4" length of threads.
PS - No bottoming tap needed either. Sorry Mike.
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Installing radial pin
- Thread starter captainjko
- Start date
The Radial's pilot is .310" dia. x .250" Long.
There's 1" of thread length on the bottom threads of a Radial.
That leaves 3/4" length of threads.
PS - No bottoming tap needed either. Sorry Mike.
It's all good KJ. I'm just fortunate to have a bottoming tap for just about all the taps I have.
JC
Coos Cues
Why would anyone willfully use a pin that requires either turning down or filling a hole under it? It seems to me if a pin isn't manufactured in a ready to use state it has problems.
I know this is subjective but does this pin have sufficient advantages to justify it's existence? Is that extra contact area necessary for a straight durable joint? Or is it just another bastard gimmick pin at heart? Someone started using it now deal with it repair people?
JC
I know this is subjective but does this pin have sufficient advantages to justify it's existence? Is that extra contact area necessary for a straight durable joint? Or is it just another bastard gimmick pin at heart? Someone started using it now deal with it repair people?
JC
Great post. The tap for the radial has a lead on the front of it to help tap straight. I didn't like the space either or turning down the screw so I bought second taps to rectify what I didn't like.
Is it straighter??
With all things combined, dirt, mousture etc etc. I don't really think so. It's another option at best in my opinion. It is one of the proprietary joint screws used by Predator cues. Predator now owns Uni Loc. The original quick release and radial being the most popular choice. The other two that you see but not as popular are, the ghost joint and the bullet.
This will happen when the thread forms are not concentric to the centre line of the parts. Like the thread of a capscrews is not concentric to the body of the screw. So no matter what prep you have on the bottom of them, it will always kick over. If the thread form, is screw cut or a ground form thread like a well made tap, it will not kick over.
Neil
IMO, the Radial is a pretty decent pin. It's just different.
Different in that we're used to seeing 60* V threads.
This is a different animal but does it's job well.
I was skeptical at first glance but I've yet to find a fault.
Lets clear-up this install debate.
You DON'T have to do anything to the pin other than install it.
Do a glue relief channel as with any other pin.
Now to the hole. Forget about it. It's not an issue nor is it a problem.
That little 1/4 x 5/16 void is the first place that the epoxy settles.
It fills itself. You don't need to add any filler(s).
To be honest, it's one of the easiest pin installs you can do.
It's about half an inch from the pilot to the full size thread.
Hence Uniloc themselves instruct peeps to drill deeper.
Sorry, I'm not about to grind the lead. LOL They sure have gone up in price. Got two when they were $39.99.
I don't use it much anymore except on shafts.
Hence Uniloc themselves instruct peeps to drill deeper.
Sorry, I'm not about to grind the lead. LOL They sure have gone up in price. Got two when they were $39.99.
I don't use it much anymore except on shafts.
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As the inventor of the Radial pin all I can say about installation is buy some plug gages.
Buy the proper taps.
Make sure you are not buying Fake pins.
Drill the hole the proper dia. for the tap with a 3 flute carbide drill.
Use a piloted tap with the same dia. as the drill.
Bore with a carbide tool.
I always made the bore .001 less than the dia. of the pin.
Measure each pin with a 3 jaw micrometer and adjust.
Make sure you drill the correct depth leaving a small clearance at the bottom.
No clamping should be necessary if you have the proper tools and follow the correct procedures.
Bill S.
Buy the proper taps.
Make sure you are not buying Fake pins.
Drill the hole the proper dia. for the tap with a 3 flute carbide drill.
Use a piloted tap with the same dia. as the drill.
Bore with a carbide tool.
I always made the bore .001 less than the dia. of the pin.
Measure each pin with a 3 jaw micrometer and adjust.
Make sure you drill the correct depth leaving a small clearance at the bottom.
No clamping should be necessary if you have the proper tools and follow the correct procedures.
Bill S.
Update.... Still off....
Thanks for all of the replies... I removed the pin and plugged... Drilled, bored, tapped and bored to .001 smaller than new pin aligning shoulder. (per Mr. Stroud) Screwed pin in and was straight. Removed, added a longer setting time epoxy, and installed making sure it did not stay bottomed out. Was straight. Moved tail stock up with 60 degree center against pin to secure. Very little pressure.... Left dial indicator on... Straight... 24 hours later backed off tail stock and dial indicator moves..... Rotate and pin is off .004.... WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON????????????? Too much epoxy? If I can't figure this out soon, I'm going to buy stock in G10 material so I'm not wasting 100% of my money......... I'm willing to come stay a few days with someone and pay them for help.... This is a mere hobby as I have 3 businesses to run... So I am not looking to produce cues for the billiards community................ Just really enjoy this....Well, I'm trying to enjoy it...
NOTE.... THE DRILL CHUCK WAS WHAT WAS OFF ON TAIL STOCK... CHANGED IT AND NOW IS CENTERED...
Thanks for all of the replies... I removed the pin and plugged... Drilled, bored, tapped and bored to .001 smaller than new pin aligning shoulder. (per Mr. Stroud) Screwed pin in and was straight. Removed, added a longer setting time epoxy, and installed making sure it did not stay bottomed out. Was straight. Moved tail stock up with 60 degree center against pin to secure. Very little pressure.... Left dial indicator on... Straight... 24 hours later backed off tail stock and dial indicator moves..... Rotate and pin is off .004.... WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON????????????? Too much epoxy? If I can't figure this out soon, I'm going to buy stock in G10 material so I'm not wasting 100% of my money......... I'm willing to come stay a few days with someone and pay them for help.... This is a mere hobby as I have 3 businesses to run... So I am not looking to produce cues for the billiards community................ Just really enjoy this....Well, I'm trying to enjoy it...
NOTE.... THE DRILL CHUCK WAS WHAT WAS OFF ON TAIL STOCK... CHANGED IT AND NOW IS CENTERED...
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Bill S. most likely hit the snail on the head when he mentioned fake pins.
I purchased some bad pins last year and they were exactly .004" off, imagine that, the same amount you mentioned.
It's either bad pins or bad on your part, I am going with the pins and not you.
It sounds like you knew your tailstock was hi, many people never know that about lathes, brand new lathes will have tailstocks that are hi, that is why we bore after drilling.
Edit; You mentioned the pin was straight until you removed the tailstock. Bingo, I believe its your tailstock forcing it out of center and holding it in a stressed position, it relaxes when you remove it. It's either bad pins or your tailstock.
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Well.... I had the dial indicator on the end of the pin without the tail stock in place...It was straight... Well, within .001.... Brought tail stock up to pin and tightened slightly... Still straight with indicator.... Left indicator in place 24 hours before removing... Where is the best source for quality pins?
I suspect your pins are fine.
That inaccurate tailstock center is pushing the pins off when you tighten it into the center hole of the pin. Then when you indicate the pin, the indicator shows that the pin is concentric with the center, not concentric with the cue.
When I got my Porper lathe the tailstock was .030 off. Most of them are it seems.
I corrected the tailstock the same way you would correct a poorly installed pin:
Plug, drill, bore, to a smaller size, in this case.
Robin Snyder
If the cue was held straight and your bore for the alignment barrel was .001 smaller than the barrel. Why would you have to put the tail stock up to the screw?
But seeing you did, why would you not put the cue between centers to indicate it while the glue was drying?
Just curiousdo you have a rear chuck on your lathe?
Mario
Yes I do...........
I do not understand your question Mike. How would the cue be supported in the lathe? Also, I started to not use the tail stock, as the pin was already straight. But I thought the tail stock would be a little more insurance..
Dead center to live center.
Concave dead center to live center.
Dead center to live concave center.
But with the chuck on the back of the spindle, you may not need it, unless something isn't running true. You can't see what it's doing inside the spindle.
I've worked on many cues where the butt spun great except for the top few inches where the joint is and the same for shafts. Collets at the joint can be misleading.