Is anyone willing to?
- Thread starter SuperHoss
- Start date
Padauk is a wood that is often used in cue making which also has a beautiful orange-red color to it. Maybe that would be a good substitute if you have no takers with the pine.
Although it doesn't show the color real well, here is a photo of a Padauk Titlist just to give you an idea of what it looks like. I think this is the same cue from a previous owner, but possibly better pics - I can't see them right now.
Mr H
Although it doesn't show the color real well, here is a photo of a Padauk Titlist just to give you an idea of what it looks like. I think this is the same cue from a previous owner, but possibly better pics - I can't see them right now.
Mr H
It would be usable if it was well seasoned, and then cored.
Since burl can be used, so can pine; it just needs to be cored to give it the structural stability it needs to perform, just like burl does.
I also think that Cue Components offers coring service, so you send them your wood and they core it for you (for a charge). In that state, it should be easy for the maker of your choice to finish it off (although many don't want to use others work as a starting point).
But anyway, that should help you somewhat!:thumbup:
Since burl can be used, so can pine; it just needs to be cored to give it the structural stability it needs to perform, just like burl does.
I also think that Cue Components offers coring service, so you send them your wood and they core it for you (for a charge). In that state, it should be easy for the maker of your choice to finish it off (although many don't want to use others work as a starting point).
But anyway, that should help you somewhat!:thumbup:
Respectfully on the coring part, wait til you find the maker your looking for, Some don't like working with woods cored by other people, this way they know what their working with from beginning to end.
It seems like old growth Long-leaf Pine is hard to find
Longleaf pine = Pinus palustris.
AKA:
American pitch pine, Cedar pine, Florida longleaf pine, Florida yellow pine, Georgia pine, Georgia yellow pine, Hard pine, Heart pine, Long leaf pitch pine, Longleaf pine, Longleaf pitch pine, Longstraw pine, Palustris pine, Palustris-den, Pine, Pitch pine, Southern yellow pine, Spruce pine, Straw pine, Texas yellow pine, Walter pine, and . . . Yellow pine.
Lots more info here.
Mr H
Yes Sir, I was just re-stressing the point.
Being that my dad works in the lumber industry, he always comes across useful fat lighter. 2 months ago he found some old split-rail posts that were formerly used as railroad ties; some of them are 7-8 feet long and around 5 inches across. They are square, the wood is several hundred years old and were used as ties over a hundred years ago. I'm sorry, I don't have any pictures.
Vasilios, I know that I didn't give a whole lot of information and I should have given more from the start. I haven't settled on the finished cue dimensions because I got caught up in finding someone that would actually take on the project. I'm not on a deadline for the finished product, I just think that it would be nice to have and a truly unique piece of work which is why I sought this to begin with.
Brief Long-leaf History
Long-leaf pines were the dominate trees in the southeast in the precolonial times (covering an estimated 90 million acres-Virginia to middle Florida and from Georgia to eastern parts of Texas). They most easily recognized as having pine needles over 1 foot long, resilient to fire, will grow in places the most pines cannot survive in, and an unusually long tap-root.
Thanks for the advice and help everyone.
Vasilios, I know that I didn't give a whole lot of information and I should have given more from the start. I haven't settled on the finished cue dimensions because I got caught up in finding someone that would actually take on the project. I'm not on a deadline for the finished product, I just think that it would be nice to have and a truly unique piece of work which is why I sought this to begin with.
Brief Long-leaf History
Long-leaf pines were the dominate trees in the southeast in the precolonial times (covering an estimated 90 million acres-Virginia to middle Florida and from Georgia to eastern parts of Texas). They most easily recognized as having pine needles over 1 foot long, resilient to fire, will grow in places the most pines cannot survive in, and an unusually long tap-root.
Thanks for the advice and help everyone.
As far as the size of the piece needed for the project, it can be whatever it needs to be. There are several places to get pieces of fat lighter around here. My question is this, what would the ideal size of the base piece need to be?
I'm not well versed on cues and all of the options available to me. Honestly, all I've done is played pool at the local billiards hall over the past couple of years as a hobby. I was amazed at the sheer number of skilled cue makers out there. I really need to console with someone...I'm not under the assumption that this will be a cheap job. I'm aware that quality cues are expensive...I'm not assuming that this is a low-budget task.
I've had the opportunity to use several professional made pieces over time...a couple from Cue-Tech, a very nice custom made live oak that was made in the '70s, and several others. After using these cues I've come to appreciate their quality and how much better they feel compared to a house piece. I'm seeking some help on getting this project done; I just need some help in getting pointed in the right direction.
Thanks again everyone.
I'm not well versed on cues and all of the options available to me. Honestly, all I've done is played pool at the local billiards hall over the past couple of years as a hobby. I was amazed at the sheer number of skilled cue makers out there. I really need to console with someone...I'm not under the assumption that this will be a cheap job. I'm aware that quality cues are expensive...I'm not assuming that this is a low-budget task.
I've had the opportunity to use several professional made pieces over time...a couple from Cue-Tech, a very nice custom made live oak that was made in the '70s, and several others. After using these cues I've come to appreciate their quality and how much better they feel compared to a house piece. I'm seeking some help on getting this project done; I just need some help in getting pointed in the right direction.
Thanks again everyone.
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Where I'm from fat lighter is just what the name describes. It's what we use to get kindling going for a fire, It's very sappy, and sometimes almost petrified feeling. The sap is like a natural fuel, and It lights up very easily. I didn't even realize It was a different species, I always thought It was just some sappy a$$ yellow pine root. I know what to look for when in the field so to speak for what works best for that purpose, but I guess I never distinguished It from a yellow pine. Usually the best stuff came from down trees or roots.
Most of those old railroad ties down here end up as landscape timbers. They do tend to hold up to the extreme environment better then other woods though, I've seen those things outlive lots of pressure treated woods. I guess It's the sap that the bugs don't like.
Most of those old railroad ties down here end up as landscape timbers. They do tend to hold up to the extreme environment better then other woods though, I've seen those things outlive lots of pressure treated woods. I guess It's the sap that the bugs don't like.
I think many people including yourself do not understand the properties of the wood you want to use, I personally think you would have two problems using this wood. First I do not know what kind of adhesive would not be affected by it's Chemical properties, and second I also do not know what type of finish could be used that would not deteriorate in a short time.
Below is a more clear explanation of the chemical properties of the wood you want to use:
Fatwood, also known as “fat lighter,” “lighter wood” or “lighter’d,” is derived from the heartwood of pine trees. This resin-impregnated heartwood is hard and rot-resistant; the stumps or heartwood centers of fallen pines had last for decades after the rest of the tree has rotted away. Although most resinous pines can produce fatwood, in the southeastern United States the wood is commonly associated with Longleaf pine, which historically was highly valued for its high pitch production.
Because of the flammability of the pine resin, fatwood is prized for use as kindling in starting fires. It lights quickly, even when wet, and burns hot enough to light larger pieces of wood. The pitch-soaked wood produces an oily, sooty smoke, and it is recommended that one should not cook on a fire until all the fatwood has completely burned out.Industrial uses for fatwood include production of turpentine; when fatwood is cooked down in a fire kiln, the heavier resin product that results is tar. The steam that vaporizes from this process is turned into a liquid that becomes turpentine.[/
Here is a link to the above information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatwood
Good Luck with your search!!!
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I'm very much aware of the properties of fat lighter and how it was formed...I'm just not aware of how it will interact with the materials used in making a cue. Fat lighter is predominately from old long-leaf around here because of the long leaf forests that were here hundreds of years ago.
Heartwood is a better term for fat lighter, but what people (in terms of a company) refer to heartwood today has changed from the original definition from long ago.
It burns at a very hot temperature and resistant to weathering...and many people would use it long ago for boards, ties, fence posts, and for building other things at the time.
You're right manwon, I don't know what it'll do to the glue or finish.
Heartwood is a better term for fat lighter, but what people (in terms of a company) refer to heartwood today has changed from the original definition from long ago.
It burns at a very hot temperature and resistant to weathering...and many people would use it long ago for boards, ties, fence posts, and for building other things at the time.
You're right manwon, I don't know what it'll do to the glue or finish.