Sorry missed your post Fran. The voice of experience speaking. Listen up.
Is This A Difficult Shot For Most?
- Thread starter DrCue'sProtege
- Start date
Interesting... I think coming down table at all with the use of draw is a mistake here. No real advantage to be gain imo. If I weren't to play for the opposite rail like I suggested earlier. My choice would be to strike downward on the CB with heavy siding. I'm a pretty flat cuer normally so this striking angle may be more "normal" for most. The point would be to pop the CB off the OB and get the siding to dig into the first rail. That downward angle would impart some draw, but nothing notable.
I think my thoughts above are more driven from my personal table (which I've been stuck on for months), that has worn cloth and the CB tends to bite into the rails. I wouldn't have to worry about the siding not taking hold on that first rail. I wouldn't get the action necessary to follow the OP's desired path, but it would definitely get me to center of the table.
Thank you very much for posting
“in snippets”
It is much easier to read and learn from
The angle adds to resistance, or friction. There is a direct correlation between the friction and how soon the english is able to gain traction. The newness of bed cloth, rail cloth and their cleanliness and humidity conditions all factor into the end reaction. I initially spread my wings and learned to fly on a snooker table. Between table nap, heavier cloth and extra swerve when applying a downward stroke and draw, I developed a healthy respect of the frailty of accuracy. The tighter the pockets the more slight adjustments for throw and deflection factor into your intuitive sense of the shot. Learning to play on worsted cloth vs napped forced some unhappy reality checks. Adding some elevation helped me get back some of the effects I enjoyed on the nap.
Yes it is an easy shot.
Speed is the key because the cue ball is crossing the 7 as opposed to going towards it.
Better players have a degree of independence from the pocketing. IOW, they're on a shot where the object ball ends in the pocket - end of concern. Having achieved that, the next step is independence of speed from the shot. This is where precise landings come from. They are functionally rolling the white ball where it needs to land. Maybe they should teach this stuff at the intermediate stage.
The 7 from the far apex looks less likely but unsurprisingly common when cash is on the lights.
PoolHallPaul
Member
U might b better off to stay above side pocket.U can get in trouble quicker going below.The angle gets a lot steeper below. Fwiw.
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Above the side, you start flirting with a hook on the 9. The difference is just a few degrees of the first rail. Also up there even if you land clear you'd have to carom into the 8.
I think we're experiencing a lost in personal translation moment.
"Above" the side pocket = "up" table = end that contains the head string...
I never understood why people would consider the section the table containing the foot spot, as the "top".
Below side pocket = near foot spot
Above side pocket = near head string
...and the biggest/easiest portion of that optimal zone to land in is above the side pocket. Could have sworn that someone said earlier the thread that this would be the best percentage play...
From anywhere within that zone 'above' the side pocket, all you have to do is roll the 7 to get good on the 8. Even if you manage that small zone near the side pocket and have the angle to play the stun/draw to get above the 8 to play it in the nearest corner. You're still better off rolling forward, then hoping you hit the draw perfectly.
Thanks for taking the time to post this altered diagram.
Snooker tables have the "top" cushion by the black ball. It's tradition rather than logic. But I think pool tables have been as you say for a long time.