Ivorine IV ferrule

JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Installed one on my shaft last night.
Appears to come from a flat sheet, not a rolled rod.
The weaves are very pronounced.
Polishes nicely but u take too much out to polish and I don't like coating ferrules with super glue before final cut.
Put a Hercules hard tip and the tip played fine.
Ivorine IV doesn't seem to be as hard as the old Melamine.
Or Ivor-X?
 
Varney Cues said:
Trust me sir...its actually harder. ;) PM me if you'd like top secret info.:D
Click to expand...
AM not too crazy in uncapping it.
The weave is a turn off to me too but I'll pm u for the scoop.
 
JoeyInCali said:
AM not too crazy in uncapping it.
The weave is a turn off to me too but I'll pm u for the scoop.
Click to expand...
Joey its fine uncapped...even as large as 5/16 id. The bold weave is the only thing and I don't mind that...it polishes very bright white & slick. I've had no issues with pitting or needing CA filler.;)
 
I have put 5 on so far and three came back split in half. Two were capped and the other uncapped but larger tennon two of them were on a break cue. Both customers are good friends and these were the only ferulle's that have let us down since then went back to old stock havn't had a problem both guys break and shoot hard with triangle tips...

Do a search and you will see some other posts about ivorine 4 and others having problems with it.

Craig
 
I don't believe it! Ivorine-IV has a glass base... it is one of the hardest, strongest ferrule materials on the market that I've found yet. This stuff is bomb-proof! The only reason I stopped using it is because it was killing my cutters. It's so abrasive that it dulls my carbide inserts really fast, and I don't want to pony up for diamond.

No offense Craig, but if this material didn't hold up I'd be more likely to believe that it was "operator error", not material failure.
 
class act said:
I don't believe it! Ivorine-IV has a glass base... it is one of the hardest, strongest ferrule materials on the market that I've found yet. This stuff is bomb-proof! The only reason I stopped using it is because it was killing my cutters. It's so abrasive that it dulls my carbide inserts really fast, and I don't want to pony up for diamond.

No offense Craig, but if this material didn't hold up I'd be more likely to believe that it was "operator error", not material failure.
Click to expand...

I agree. No offense meant by me either Craig, but you surely must have the 3 instead of the 4. Its a huge difference. The new 4 is the strongest stuff ever made. It will flatten the teeth on a hacksaw blade in 5 seconds....you need carbide to cut it. I have only used it on several hundred j/b cues...and have not had one single issue or problem.;)
 
Varney Cues said:
I agree. No offense meant by me either Craig, but you surely must have the 3 instead of the 4. Its a huge difference. The new 4 is the strongest stuff ever made. It will flatten the teeth on a hacksaw blade in 5 seconds....you need carbide to cut it. I have only used it on several hundred j/b cues...and have not had one single issue or problem.;)
Click to expand...
Several hundred?
I took it out. It hit too soft even with Hercules hard tip.
 
Varney Cues said:
I agree. No offense meant by me either Craig, but you surely must have the 3 instead of the 4. Its a huge difference. The new 4 is the strongest stuff ever made. It will flatten the teeth on a hacksaw blade in 5 seconds....you need carbide to cut it. I have only used it on several hundred j/b cues...and have not had one single issue or problem.;)
Click to expand...

I think it is very hard. Even with carbide you can tell it cuts harder then other materials. I use a lot of LBM and Ivor x now but I do keep Ivorine 3 and 4 on hand.
 
Strokerz said:
I think it is very hard. Even with carbide you can tell it cuts harder then other materials. I use a lot of LBM and Ivor x now but I do keep Ivorine 3 and 4 on hand.
Click to expand...
Being abrasive and hard are two different things imo.
Ivor-X hits better I think.
Much cleaner too.
 
Abrasiveness and hardness go hand in hand. You can not have one without the other. The more abrasive a material is, the harder it must be.

If you think that ANY glass thermosets are soft, I want some of what you've been smokin'... puff-puff pass!

Also, you can have that crappy Ivor-X... I'd rather mold some Bondo slugs in my garage and call it a day. Appearances aren't everything...
 
class act said:
Abrasiveness and hardness go hand in hand. You can not have one without the other. The more abrasive a material is, the harder it must be.

If you think that ANY glass thermosets are soft, I want some of what you've been smokin'... puff-puff pass!

Also, you can have that crappy Ivor-X... I'd rather mold some Bondo slugs in my garage and call it a day. Appearances aren't everything...
Click to expand...
OK, doc.
I said it hit too soft for my liking.
You can pass on Ivor-X all you want.
There's a long list of who's who in the cuemaking world using them as their standard ferrule.
 
"There's a long list of who's who in the cuemaking world using them as their standard ferrule."

...And that is supposed to make me form a positive opinion of a bad material? I've never been one to follow the pack without reason... I'd rather educate myself on the pros and cons, and make a decision based upon the presented information.

Do your homework. Two words, "Chemical analysis."
 
class act said:
"There's a long list of who's who in the cuemaking world using them as their standard ferrule."

...And that is supposed to make me form a positive opinion of a bad material? I've never been one to follow the pack without reason... I'd rather educate myself on the pros and cons, and make a decision based upon the presented information.

Do your homework. Two words, "Chemical analysis."
Click to expand...
Thanks. I just install them and play with them a while.
And listen to those who have them too.
 
I mostly use ivory ferrulle's but these two guys hit downward on the slate and split them right in half since then one change his style of brake and no more problems, the other theres no hope for him its always a tip change every day he plays one tip might last two days but never two tournaments he likes them papper thin.

I think there hard ferrulle's also i used premade from atlas now im back to making my own. I have been doing simple cue repair and recover tables for ten + years i was just sharing hat i had happen thats all.

Craig
 
Craig,

No really, I was not trying to be offensive. If you are getting this material to split, there's more going on than a "big-breaker" dragging it across the felt. More likely than not, your tenon is too long for the id of the ferrule causing a wedge type action when hit really hard.

I know for a fact that this material would not split as you've suggested from "normal" use, because I've used it without a tip at all for a jump/break cue. This stuff is SO HARD that it actually chips apart the cue ball! Not just a cheap nylon ball either, but a phenolic Aramith cue ball!
 
As far as chemical make up of a material I'll leave that up to the brainiacs who invent that stuff for guys like us who install it on our customers cues:D I keep a few of each kind of ferrule in stock. I currently have Ivory Aegis, Ivorine III, Ivroine IV, Phenolic, LBM, Some of the new Micarta, Porper, Mammoth, Ivro X, Titan, Some Grice prather use to sell, Fiber, Mp Ivory substitute, Implex, and a few others I have no Idea what they are. But I try to stear my customers twords the Ivor x now because it's apearance. No balck flecks It machines good bonds with CA and epoxy well and hits good and solid and has thus far prove durable. I know Shawn Putnam is putting them on his cues he has been making. I don't really have a favorite. What ever the customer wants is my favorite at the time. :D
 
Last edited:
Sometimes I type stuff before i think it out. I like the wedge theory makes sense it happens sometimes cleaning out the tennon because at the time i was rushed for time.... I also switched back to wood glue 90% of the time so i dont get a glue line or ring behind the ferrule. I'm going to cut the ferrule in half to see if something is different I mostly make my own but these are from atlas could be different tolerance.

I have never seen a cue ball be chipped by a ferrule usually its from pocket screws or nails not installed right or at the wrong hieght.

Thanks,
Craig
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top