Ivory Joint / which type is best
- Thread starter JdoubleR
- Start date
JdoubleR said:
I shouldn't even respond to this question as I've not used ivory joints that often. This being said up front, I, myself prefer a solid ivory joint over the other two. Ivory is not that strong a material so in use I like it as thick and bulky as possible. That's the reason for not using the sleeve option. I don't use or like piloted joints of any kind. I believe that the piloted joints don't have enough joint face/shaft face surface for a good transfer of "feel" from the tip to cueball contact. Pilots I don't believe affect the transfer of energy between tip and ball but I do believe it affects what the player feels.
Just my opinion and nothing more.
Dick
ivory joint
I wouldn't use anything but full cap over flat faced ivory joint. I like the hit and so do my shooters. I can't understand why anyone would make an ivory joint with a sleeve. What good is it? It is no differant than using an implex joint. Your hitting wood to wood, not ivory to wood or what ever. It's a waist of ivory in my opinion. I made one piloted ivory joint and there woun't be another one. I agree with the other post, I want all the ivory there as possible. By the way, I have had a bunch of them crack lately. 5 to be exact. That is why we have to get so much money for putting one on. I think they were all cut off the same dowel. I think the crack was there and you couldn't see it. But who knows. Butterflycues
I wouldn't use anything but full cap over flat faced ivory joint. I like the hit and so do my shooters. I can't understand why anyone would make an ivory joint with a sleeve. What good is it? It is no differant than using an implex joint. Your hitting wood to wood, not ivory to wood or what ever. It's a waist of ivory in my opinion. I made one piloted ivory joint and there woun't be another one. I agree with the other post, I want all the ivory there as possible. By the way, I have had a bunch of them crack lately. 5 to be exact. That is why we have to get so much money for putting one on. I think they were all cut off the same dowel. I think the crack was there and you couldn't see it. But who knows. Butterflycues
ivory joint/which type is best
I'm a self taught Qmaker, so when I made my 1st Ivory jointed Q it was sleeved, like all of the other jointed Qs I had made. I liked the hit & the look so I made more. Then I heard that you should have a capped joint if it was to be Ivory. I made 2 break Qs with the sleeved Ivory joint that I was using. Surely if it was going to break, it would be on a break Q. That was 17 years ago & my son's & my break Q are still intact. It is the only Ivory joint that I use. NEVER HAD A FAILURE IN ALL OF THAT TIME. I probably make 10 Qs a year with this joint. I do make the wall thickness thicker than my plasic joint...JER
JdoubleR said:
I'm a self taught Qmaker, so when I made my 1st Ivory jointed Q it was sleeved, like all of the other jointed Qs I had made. I liked the hit & the look so I made more. Then I heard that you should have a capped joint if it was to be Ivory. I made 2 break Qs with the sleeved Ivory joint that I was using. Surely if it was going to break, it would be on a break Q. That was 17 years ago & my son's & my break Q are still intact. It is the only Ivory joint that I use. NEVER HAD A FAILURE IN ALL OF THAT TIME. I probably make 10 Qs a year with this joint. I do make the wall thickness thicker than my plasic joint...JER
ivory
But what is the differance with ivory surounding the wood as to an implex joint that is surounding the wood. Why would the hit be any differant? Your still shooting with flat faced wood. Mine have never broken once they get out of the shop either. Mine have broken while waiting to be finished. Could be a loss of humidity. Just my thaughts. Butterflycues.
But what is the differance with ivory surounding the wood as to an implex joint that is surounding the wood. Why would the hit be any differant? Your still shooting with flat faced wood. Mine have never broken once they get out of the shop either. Mine have broken while waiting to be finished. Could be a loss of humidity. Just my thaughts. Butterflycues.
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I completely agree with you the only way to go using Ivory for a joint is sleeved. Apparently most people do not understand the lively nature of Ivory or how tempermental it can be. Since it is organic it is very apt to move (expand/contract) due to changes in tempeture and humidity. Due this factor the cues hit can change a great deal from location to location, and most people may not like the changes in the hit of their cue. Ivory is fantastic for inlay work, and as stated by sleeveing Ivory for use as a joint you get the best of both worlds, enhanced strength, repeatable hit, and a great look.
I think you guys have uncovered the question you have to ask yourself. Are you putting ivory on the cue strictly for looks, or for hit?
The capped ivory joint will give you a softer hit but, in my experience, some customers prefer the wood to wood hit but want the ivory for appearance. Thus, the sleeve method works there. This is probably one of those things where if you put a certain 10 cue makers at a dinner table and kicked this subject off just before the food comes, you could watch them all argue with each other until breakfast is served the next morning.
I can offer one thing to consider though... I have repaired probably 10 to 15 cracked ivory joints (in 5 years) where the ivory was capped and cracked, and NONE where it was sleeved. I don't know if that just means there are more capped ones out there, and I just haven't seen any broken sleeved joints, or if it is proof that capped joints are more vulnerable. Take it however you want.
The capped ivory joint will give you a softer hit but, in my experience, some customers prefer the wood to wood hit but want the ivory for appearance. Thus, the sleeve method works there. This is probably one of those things where if you put a certain 10 cue makers at a dinner table and kicked this subject off just before the food comes, you could watch them all argue with each other until breakfast is served the next morning.
I can offer one thing to consider though... I have repaired probably 10 to 15 cracked ivory joints (in 5 years) where the ivory was capped and cracked, and NONE where it was sleeved. I don't know if that just means there are more capped ones out there, and I just haven't seen any broken sleeved joints, or if it is proof that capped joints are more vulnerable. Take it however you want.
capped
With the capped Ivory joint, there would be more ivory exposed to the elements to loose moinsture so very possibly, that could explain it. I usually try to seal this with something, but have had them crack while building the cue when it is not sealed good enough. I agree, we all have our own thaughts and ideas. Who knows who is right. Butterflycues
With the capped Ivory joint, there would be more ivory exposed to the elements to loose moinsture so very possibly, that could explain it. I usually try to seal this with something, but have had them crack while building the cue when it is not sealed good enough. I agree, we all have our own thaughts and ideas. Who knows who is right. Butterflycues
I'm not trying to be beligerent, but I don't understand your comment that an ivory sleeve is a waste of ivory. How is that more of a waste than any other use of ivory; such as an inlay? Used as a sleeve, isn't it just another decoration on the cue? Thanks for your thoughts.butterflycues said:
Last edited:
reply
Yes your right. I guess I might have expressed myself wrong. I guess I think that if it is going to be a sleve joint I would just as soon use plastic or phenolic as they call it. butterflycues
ScottR said:
Yes your right. I guess I might have expressed myself wrong. I guess I think that if it is going to be a sleve joint I would just as soon use plastic or phenolic as they call it. butterflycues