Jerry Rauenzahn

duke@neo.rr.com said:
of all the rauenzahn cues I've seen, I have to say this IS the nicest looking! he did a very good job on this cue. it just isn't what I'm used to seeing from his shop. nice cue!! I hope it plays at least 1/2 as well as it looks.

It is a nice cue...a simple 6 pointer with a leather wrap and 2 shafts in excellent shape (has one slight ding on the butt cap). The cocobola is very nice...sweet grain. Very sharp, even points. Has a nice, crisp hit...not quite as stiff as the Southwest.

I have it for $500 or so. Why do I want to sell it? It is what I do....I am not changing from my Southwest as a player. If anyone wants a nice cue at a reasonable price, it is available...no big deal either way. I am not into downing someone else's cues, etc, because everyone is entitled to their own opinion. What I like, you may hate.....
 
shoutout33 said:
His inlays look CNC, but he said that his pantograph can act as a CNC.
Let's try to answer this statement. Why do you think his inlays look CNC?

A pantograph/pantomill uses a rotating cutter like a router, so unless the cue maker sharpens corners afterwards, the corners will appear round. A precision indexer (standard machining equipment) will allow the cuemaker to put the inlays and points exactly correct radially.

A "CNC" machine can use virtually any tool, and truly describes it's automated motion - via Computer Numerical Control. The standard tool is again a rotating cuter like a router or mill. So, the inlay will look rounded on the corners.

Is that what you mean by "his inlays look CNC"?

Fred
 
Fred Agnir said:
Let's try to answer this statement. Why do you think his inlays look CNC?

A pantograph/pantomill uses a rotating cutter like a router, so unless the cue maker sharpens corners afterwards, the corners will appear round. A precision indexer (standard machining equipment) will allow the cuemaker to put the inlays and points exactly correct radially.

A "CNC" machine can use virtually any tool, and truly describes it's automated motion - via Computer Numerical Control. The standard tool is again a rotating cuter like a router or mill. So, the inlay will look rounded on the corners.

Is that what you mean by "his inlays look CNC"?

Fred


Fred, you're probably right with what he meant. Most people do not realize that CNC is actually the "method" but mistakingly associate the term with "look". Inlays that are shaped identically can be cut manually on a pantograph or via CNC. This is a good point for everyone to understand.
 
Is that what you mean by "his inlays look CNC"?

When I see, let's say diamond inlays, and they appear to have a rounded look instead of a sharp, pointed look, I always understood this to represent CNC work. What you are saying, is that even patagraph inlays would still need to be sharpended by hand, after they are cut with a pantograph right? Well, if this is the case, could folks who do CNC work sharpen their inlays afterwards as well, since both techniques leave rounded points? I mean, his point are sharp, so why aren't his inlays sharp as well?
 
shoutout33 said:
When I see, let's say diamond inlays, and they appear to have a rounded look instead of a sharp, pointed look, I always understood this to represent CNC work. What you are saying, is that even patagraph inlays would still need to be sharpended by hand, after they are cut with a pantograph right? Well, if this is the case, could folks who do CNC work sharpen their inlays afterwards as well, since both techniques leave rounded points? I mean, his point are sharp, so why aren't his inlays sharp as well?


Absolutely....

The roundness you get on a diamond is determined by the particular bit & stylus (size) used on the pantograph machine and the bit size used on a CNC inlay machine. On a pantograph you are manually tracing a pattern/template with the stylus and on the CNC you obviously are letting the computer control that portion of the work.

Absolutely....someone who uses CNC for inlays can go back and make them razor sharp by hand afetrwards (a great example of that being Skip Weston).
 
shoutout33 said:
When , his point are sharp, so why aren't his inlays sharp as well?


Points can be cut with a mill as well leaving them rounded, but in this case I believe the points you are talking about are spliced and that's the reason they are sharp. Spliced points are not inlays (per say) they become round due to the taper of the cue, the more the cue gets turned down the shorter the points become because they are being sanded off, in the process they also become pointy.

Jim
 
shoutout33 said:
Well, if this is the case, could folks who do CNC work sharpen their inlays afterwards as well, since both techniques leave rounded points?

Yes, they could if they wanted to. It takes more work.

shoutout33 said:
I mean, his point are sharp, so why aren't his inlays sharp as well?
His points could be spliced points, so they would be sharp. Do you need a course on spliced points? Check out Joe Barringer's sight at http://www.cuecomponents.com/fosttofi.html for one example of how half-spliced cues are made.

Fred
 
Bamacues said:
It is a nice cue...a simple 6 pointer with a leather wrap and 2 shafts in excellent shape (has one slight ding on the butt cap). The cocobola is very nice...sweet grain. Very sharp, even points. Has a nice, crisp hit...not quite as stiff as the Southwest.

I have it for $500 or so. Why do I want to sell it? It is what I do....I am not changing from my Southwest as a player. If anyone wants a nice cue at a reasonable price, it is available...no big deal either way. I am not into downing someone else's cues, etc, because everyone is entitled to their own opinion. What I like, you may hate.....
Bama - Nice cue. That's very similar to my second Rauenzahn, but the ring-work on mine is simpler and it has an ivory ferrule and joint.

In response to the guy asking for more information about Rauenzahn cues, I have been shooting with one for several months and don't expect to change, but it's personal preference - I like a simple but beautiful cue, and that's what I have. The weight and balance almost exactly matches my old Lucasi, if that helps - higher up than Schons or Meuccis I've shot with. Everyone whose seen the cue or hit with it thinks it's very well-made and hits well. The original shaft hit well, but I switched to a 314 and like it better. When I get the 2nd cue I'll add an update post.

If I DID sell one of these (and I probably will), it would be ludicrous to think that meant that I thought Jerry's cues weren't any good. In response to the guy who thinks Bama's cue is nicer and not typical of what he's seen from Jerry Rauenzahn, I'm thinking he's never been to Jerry's web-site. Take a look - I think you will be impressed: http://webpages.charter.net/rauenzahncue/
 
runscott said:
Bama - Nice cue. That's very similar to my second Rauenzahn, but the ring-work on mine is simpler and it has an ivory ferrule and joint.

In response to the guy asking for more information about Rauenzahn cues, I have been shooting with one for several months and don't expect to change, but it's personal preference - I like a simple but beautiful cue, and that's what I have. The weight and balance almost exactly matches my old Lucasi, if that helps - higher up than Schons or Meuccis I've shot with. Everyone whose seen the cue or hit with it thinks it's very well-made and hits well. The original shaft hit well, but I switched to a 314 and like it better. When I get the 2nd cue I'll add an update post.

If I DID sell one of these (and I probably will), it would be ludicrous to think that meant that I thought Jerry's cues weren't any good. In response to the guy who thinks Bama's cue is nicer and not typical of what he's seen from Jerry Rauenzahn, I'm thinking he's never been to Jerry's web-site. Take a look - I think you will be impressed: http://webpages.charter.net/rauenzahncue/

Thanks, and I agree with you about Jerry's cues. The ones I have had or seen have been very well made and hit very well. This cue has some of the nicest cocobola that I have seen. I saw a 4 pointer go on ebay recently that had similar cocobola, so Jerry must have gotten hold of some very nice stock.

I played with this cue a little (my youngest son played with it some also) and I felt it played very nicely...I have a 3/8x10 Predator shaft also, maybe I will hit a few with it to see how that combo plays. Probably like you stated...very well. Both of the shafts that come with this cue hit about the same, not as stiff as a Predator.
 
cueaddicts said:
Fred, you're probably right with what he meant. Most people do not realize that CNC is actually the "method" but mistakingly associate the term with "look". Inlays that are shaped identically can be cut manually on a pantograph or via CNC. This is a good point for everyone to understand.
You gotta admit though, when makers get crazy with their cnc, the cues will have that "CNC-look". Inlays all over the place with crazy patterns.
 
New Rauenzahn cue arrived today

Here's a scan:
 

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Fred Agnir said:
Let's try to answer this statement. Why do you think his inlays look CNC?

A pantograph/pantomill uses a rotating cutter like a router, so unless the cue maker sharpens corners afterwards, the corners will appear round. A precision indexer (standard machining equipment) will allow the cuemaker to put the inlays and points exactly correct radially.

A "CNC" machine can use virtually any tool, and truly describes it's automated motion - via Computer Numerical Control. The standard tool is again a rotating cuter like a router or mill. So, the inlay will look rounded on the corners.

Is that what you mean by "his inlays look CNC"?

Fred
I might sound ignorant here, so bear with me...I showed my 4-point Rauenzahn to a collector of high-end cues, noting that you could "feel" the points, whereas you can't on some cues. He said that meant that it was done by hand, not CNC, and that it was a very well-made cue.

I picked up the cue Friday night and played tournaments all weekend, doing okay with Jerry's ivory ferrule shaft, then doing really well when I switched to the 314 I normally use. It is weighted further back than my other Rauenzahn, and I like that better. I also adapted quickly to the ivory joint :cool:
 
runscott said:
I might sound ignorant here, so bear with me...I showed my 4-point Rauenzahn to a collector of high-end cues, noting that you could "feel" the points, whereas you can't on some cues. He said that meant that it was done by hand, not CNC, and that it was a very well-made cue.

If you can feel the points through the finish then that means that the woods moved and "popped" the finish. This is somewhat normal for metal rings but for the points I would think that it is much less common. If you live in a very different climat from the maker you might just have it refinished by someone in your area.
 
zeeder said:
If you can feel the points through the finish then that means that the woods moved and "popped" the finish. This is somewhat normal for metal rings but for the points I would think that it is much less common. If you live in a very different climat from the maker you might just have it refinished by someone in your area.
I might have described this wrong. You can barely feel the edges of ALL the points, but it is a new cue - I feel sure it was this way from the start. Maybe Bama can tell us if his is the same. I sometimes see one of the cue-makers who reads this forum, so I'll show it to him as well.
 
runscott said:
I might have described this wrong. You can barely feel the edges of ALL the points, but it is a new cue - I feel sure it was this way from the start. Maybe Bama can tell us if his is the same. I sometimes see one of the cue-makers who reads this forum, so I'll show it to him as well.

The 6 pointer I have is smooth as a baby's bottom...can't feel anything. If you feel there might be an issue, just call Jerry and talk to him about it. He stands firmly behind his work.
 
Bamacues said:
The 6 pointer I have is smooth as a baby's bottom...can't feel anything. If you feel there might be an issue, just call Jerry and talk to him about it. He stands firmly behind his work.
Thanks Bama. hmmm...well, maybe it's a problem, but I'll stick with it 'as is'. I guess if I ever get to the point where I can buy multi-$K custom cues, I'll learn a lot more. Gotta get the kids through college first - cues over textbooks draws wrath of mom. Meanwhile, there was another nice Cocobola Rauenzahn on ebay, but the seller dumped the auction yesterday :(
 
runscott said:
Thanks Bama. hmmm...well, maybe it's a problem, but I'll stick with it 'as is'. I guess if I ever get to the point where I can buy multi-$K custom cues, I'll learn a lot more. Gotta get the kids through college first - cues over textbooks draws wrath of mom. :(


Educating yourself is free, the info is something you should know regardless. It doesn't matter if you own a $200 cue or a $20,000 cue. I think that the price one pays for a cue or can afford to pay for a cue should not and normally doesn't reflect on how much the person can orr does know.

Jim
 
JimBo said:
Educating yourself is free, the info is something you should know regardless. It doesn't matter if you own a $200 cue or a $20,000 cue. I think that the price one pays for a cue or can afford to pay for a cue should not and normally doesn't reflect on how much the person can orr does know.

Jim
I wasn't making a socio-economic statement. I am soaking up whatever I can learn on this forum, but if I get to rub my thumbs over the points on a few more expensive cues, I'll have a better idea of what quality workmanship is.
 
JimBo said:
Educating yourself is free, the info is something you should know regardless. It doesn't matter if you own a $200 cue or a $20,000 cue. I think that the price one pays for a cue or can afford to pay for a cue should not and normally doesn't reflect on how much the person can orr does know.

Jim

I AGREE 100%, BIG DEEP POCKETS, MEAN NOTHING WHEN IT COMES TO KNOWLEDGE. THERE ARE CERTAIN THINGS THAT ONLY COME WITH TIME. THE FACT THAT YOU CAN FEEL THE POINTS ON YOUR CUE, IS NOT A GOOD THING. YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE A CUEMAKER(PROBABLY JERRY, BECA\USE HE BUILT IT) LOOK AT IT BEFORE IT GETS WORSE. IT MAY NEVER GET ANY WORSE, BUT IF IT WERE MINE I'D LIKE TO BE SURE EVERYTHING IS SOUND.
 
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