JOINT PINS and JOINT MATERIALS

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AzB Gold Member
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since i know zero about cue making could you all tell me the pros and cons of the different joint pins ie i see listed different sizes??

also whats the difference between wood on wood vs stainless steel vs ivory etc. i also saw an ivory sleeve over some other material.

if there are links or references lead me to them please.

but i would like to hear what you guys that make them beleive in general and why for example do you use the joint pin and joint type you do
 
I don't think there are pros or cons to any of them. It's all about what the builder feels is best for his cues. If it works well for the builder then it's good. And some builders use various types depending on what the buyer wants. The idea of the joint is to lock two pieces of wood together to form one. Once you accomplish that, the rest is merely personal preference.
 
As Eric said, it is personal preference both on the builder's part and on the users end.

I personally like piloted stainless steel joints as I've played much of the pool in my years with one. Ivory, wood-to-wood and sleeved have their own characteristics and I am not about to sit here and explain it as 'subjective' is a word that comes up often in these forums.

Personally, I like the different joints for their own respective properties and I have come to know them through experience.

This is a topic that no one can really describe accurately for another person. In general, steel hits with a more forward balance and wood-to-wood hits with more feel, and ivory has a feel all of it's own. Dennis Searing does a half steel joint and Tony Scianella does the sleeved and I couldn't tell you the reason because I have never talked to them. Maybe Fatboy or good ol' Scott R could chime in here as they have a considerable amount of knowledge in terms of those cue makers.

All I can say is to find a buddy around the pool hall who has those cues with the different types of joints and try them out. You might be amazed at what you discover.
 
Joey thinks he's a comedian.
Radial Pins are very close to the measurement he stated. ;)

I believe some cuemakers purposefully made their pins oddball sizes so that other cuemakers would have a hard time making replacement shafts, or even working on the shafts they make.

Like qbilder said, if the pin makes a solid connection, the rest is not so critical. The most notable factor - in my opinion - is WEIGHT.
 
Sheldon said:
Joey thinks he's a comedian.
Radial Pins are very close to the measurement he stated. ;)

I believe some cuemakers purposefully made their pins oddball sizes so that other cuemakers would have a hard time making replacement shafts, or even working on the shafts they make.

Like qbilder said, if the pin makes a solid connection, the rest is not so critical. The most notable factor - in my opinion - is WEIGHT.
Click to expand...
OUCH! No more bastard pins please.

The radial is the most popular among wood to wood pins now I believe.
I like the 3/8 10 and 11 flat bottoms too.
 
Hi,

I like brass pins because they are easy to drill out if you need to remove them. I believe heating up a pin to remove it is bad Karma for the wood.

I had my brass pins built at a screw machine shop then had them chrome plated for the looks. Brass oxidizes.

I also believe pins should have a 60 degree center. I hate working on cues that don't have a center in the nose. A pet peeve of mine.

Rick

Chrome Plated Brass Joint Pin 3/8" x 14 tpi
P1050975.jpg
 
just a bump if anyone has any more comments
happy new year to all
thanks for answering my many questions
:)
 
The 3/8" pins create a little stiffer joint. Except for Aluminum and G-10, which both allow more flex in the joint.. The smaller 5/16" pins seem to transfer the feel back to my shooting hand more, so they are my personal preference. The 5/16" pins can be installed with brass insert, phenolic insert or in many cases in my cues with no insert. The no insert feels very natural, but produces a softer sounding hit. That is also the case with the large pin with no insert. Then the phenolic is next and seems to change the sound and feel very slightly. The brass insert amplifies the feel and feedback to my shooting hand and seems to produce a slight amount more cue ball action. It also seems to stiffen the cue very slightly. Most of these differences are very slight from one joint style to the other and the common player can probably not tell any difference. So it all just comes down to personal preference. Brass, Stainless and Titanium all produce pretty much the same hit, but give different weight and balance.
 
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