Josswest Points
- Thread starter Fliedout
- Start date
cue points
It would help if you posted a photo of the end of the points.
It would help if you posted a photo of the end of the points.
Fliedout said:
I think Bill uses a 1/64" endmill for his point radiuses, which is about as small as you can efectively use on a cue. Probably not much bigger than the blade you might try to use to sharpen them. I personally, don't believe in sharpening CNC's points. It's so much easier to build a short spliced forearm for anyone so anal that they had to have the points with no radius. Unless the forearm is ebony, it's not feasable to do this any other way IMHO.
just more hot air!
Sherm
cnc'd
It's not the point, it's the pocket.
Bill has made what might be called a combo-point for 10 - 15 years.
look closely at the veeners and notice the "points" are sharp. Only the outside veneer is rounded.
that is because the point is not spliced, but is inlayed into a CNC'd
pocket, I guess he could whack the maple with an exacto-knife and fill the
dent with black, but that still wouldn't make the front spliced
Questioin:
Now that you know, would you like the cue more if
the points were sharp?
Dale Pierce
Fliedout said:
It's not the point, it's the pocket.
Bill has made what might be called a combo-point for 10 - 15 years.
look closely at the veeners and notice the "points" are sharp. Only the outside veneer is rounded.
that is because the point is not spliced, but is inlayed into a CNC'd
pocket, I guess he could whack the maple with an exacto-knife and fill the
dent with black, but that still wouldn't make the front spliced
Questioin:
Now that you know, would you like the cue more if
the points were sharp?
Dale Pierce
pdcue said:
Thanks for the education; as somebody who had a hard time getting through high school shop, I'm awed by what cuemakers can do with wood. Yes, I'd still like the cue more with sharp points, but that's purely a matter of taste and doesn't diminish my respect for the quality of Stroud's workmanship.
sharp points / cnc ?
Hi Sherm, What is the big drawback of sharpening CNC points, other than some valuable time of course? Isn't this the most frequently used procedure for veneered sharp points? Sorry, I'm not very knowlegeable about the differences of short splice, full splice, etc... Thanks alot -
Guess I'm a bit anal about sharp points myself.
cuesmith said:
Hi Sherm, What is the big drawback of sharpening CNC points, other than some valuable time of course? Isn't this the most frequently used procedure for veneered sharp points? Sorry, I'm not very knowlegeable about the differences of short splice, full splice, etc... Thanks alot -
Guess I'm a bit anal about sharp points myself.
Jigger said:Hi Sherm, What is the big drawback of sharpening CNC points, other than some valuable time of course? Isn't this the most frequently used procedure for veneered sharp points? Sorry, I'm not very knowlegeable about the differences of short splice, full splice, etc... Thanks alot -
Guess I'm a bit anal about sharp points myself.
Glad to see there's someone as anal as I about sharp points. BTW, is that a Northern or a Musky in your avatar? Weight? Where, when and how caught? It's a terrific fish.
I don't mind if the points were done with a small, i.e. 1/64th or smaller endmill...it's the cues with rounded inlays and points that have been done with bit around .100 or so, that looks like complete crap to me....
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showboat said:
Simple.....DON'T BUY THEM. Buy what you like. You might be in the market for a new pick up truck, but don't like the grill on the Dodge...DON'T BUY IT. You're beating a dead horse here...JER
points
I agree, why buy something that you don't want just to get a certain cue makers work. If you don't like it, apparently you don't like his work as much as you thaught. ButtterflycuesBLACKHEARTCUES said:
Jigger,Jigger said:
That is not the most frequently used method for doing sharp veneered points.
Sharp veneered points have more depth and a 90˚ angled bottom. CNC'ed points are flat on the bottom. Check this LINK to see what I am talking about. The ones in the link are the sharp veneered point style. If you click on the photos, you can see bigger versions with much better detail.
Tracy
showboat said:
i'd guess the most common end mill in cue making to day is the 1/32 (.03125) end mill. it's radius is not offensive to the eye when doing intricate design work and the effective depth of cut is .140 . the only use i can see for a .1 is to rough the pocket and then clean up with the 1/32. the smaller end mills below .02 would be more suited for jewelry making becuse the depth of cut is too shallow for normal use in cuemaking but some use them for small radius work.
You're welcome. I figured a picture is worth a thousand words, and with you being from the "show me" state, I thought it would be fitting.Jigger said:
Tracy