Just an idea, will this work?

Cuemaster98

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Hi Guys,

I'm working on another jointed cue with a half splice forearm and I was thinking of joining the forearm to the rosewood handle with a piece of phenolic (not threaded with a hollow ID). I remember seeing a broken cue where a wooden thread is used to join the forearm without any metal pin.

The interesting thing was that the wooden thread pin has a hollow ID. I'm not sure why so I thought I would try it with a piece of phenolic to see how this would hit. Anybody try this? How does it play? Will this create a weak join if the phenolic is hollow?

Was thinking of only boring 1 1/2 into both the forearm and handle to do this join. I would imagine that the Internal Diameter would act as a glue relieve so any excess epoxy will escape into it..but the idea is to keep a void inside. The player that broke the cue tell me the cue has a nice pop sound when he play with it before breaking in a match.

Thanks,
Duc.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I can't believe you'd even consider a hollow tube in that area.

LOL...I'm just really curious....I think it might hold up fine but just not to sure if it would play alright...or if worse it produce a weird noise. I was thinking that the sound of the cue may be controlled or adjusted by how big the ID is inside a cue....kinda like the guitar with the opening. Don't know if this is true but I figure I asked. To better balance the cue, I was thinking this would be a good solution to reduce weight and make the cue more forward balance for an ebony sectional cue. Since, I know that some builders hollow out the shaft to make the shaft deflect less, I was wondering what effect it would have in the butt...without compromising the strength of the joint.

Regards,
Duc.
 
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There'd be no mechanical bond between the forearm and handle that way.
Worse, there's a void in there.
Aluminum connecting screws are cheap and will tighten that area.
 
JoeyInCali said:
There'd be no mechanical bond between the forearm and handle that way.
Worse, there's a void in there.
Aluminum connecting screws are cheap and will tighten that area.

Hmm...I could use a stud screw to hold the phenolic in place on handle and then screw the phenolic onto the forearm with a stud screw as well if the the bond is not strong enough. This would still leave a void in the phenolic to test out if the void would help produce a better hitting sound or not.

Regards,
Duc.
 
Hi Duc,
I use a Carbon Fibre tube in the centre of my handles. They hit fine.
Neil
 
Glue it in one side then slide/epoxy a dowel of basswood into the phenolic to fill the void. Rough everything good with 100 grit before gluing. Let us know how things turn out.
 
Kudo's for you Duc!

I love it when people think "outside the box". Don't let the critics stop you Duc. New ideas are always met with skepticism I'll be anxious to hear your results. Hell, I may even try it myself:thumbup:
 
Hey I've talked to some about machining wood threads out of the forearm or handle and connecting them together no metal, no phenolic just wood and they laughed, well if Searing uses it, it must not be that bad. Experiment, some wood is cheap, and you can discover alot about your abilities, and the atributes of misc...materials.

A lot of know it alls and not alot of inovators, do it so you know and have peace of mind that it works or doesn't work.
 
In this instance.....I think this motto says it all......You will never know till you try it.....not gonna hurt anything to find out....just try it and you might be on to somthing.....Good Luck!
 
RFisher said:
Hey I've talked to some about machining wood threads out of the forearm or handle and connecting them together no metal, no phenolic just wood and they laughed, well if Searing uses it, it must not be that bad. Experiment, some wood is cheap, and you can discover alot about your abilities, and the atributes of misc...materials.

A lot of know it alls and not alot of inovators, do it so you know and have peace of mind that it works or doesn't work.
Wood threads are great.
 
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