Just How "Big" is .2mm?

With new life in this old thread I'll admit that there was a critical point where 0.2mm meant a lot to me. We could argue that .2mm doesn't matter but at some point it does. If 11.8mm is fine, why not 11.6mm? If 11.6 is fine, why not 11.4? Each of us has a tipping point where that bit more or less matters.

When I shot hours a day every day, 12.3 to 12.75 was my OK range. .2mm outside that range bigger or smaller required a conscious effort to adjust to. 12.1mm was a pencil, 12.95mm a log! Why? I don't really know. Just the way my bridges and my eyes were calibrated!

Hu
 
To me:
Priority one is it fits the ferrule right out the box.
Then, soft, med. hard...
Consider the fully configured professional players. They all got it figured and play perfect. Right?
The fractions are for calipers.
 
HueblerHustler7 said:
I feel like the main difference is the taper growth from the start at the tip that would make most difference on feel, If the tapers are similar or the same type for a 13mm to 12mm shaft I cant see there being much of an adjustment. As for visually I of course can see a difference, even from 12mm to 11.8, that I have always had an "eye for things."
Click to expand...
^ This ^

We always talk about 11.75, 12, 12.4, 12.5, 12.8mm but that's just the size of the tip. In my opinion the taper is the #1 reason why people tend to believe they can feel a 0.1 or 0.2mm difference between to shafts. It also depends on what length of bridge you play with. If you use a short bridge those fractions of mm are barely noticable because most shafts have a parallel taper for at least the first few inches. If you prefer a longer bridge then it's definitely possible to feel a difference in taper rise.
For example, if you have a 12,5mm shaft with a long, low rise pro taper and another 12.5mm shaft with a conical taper, then it's likely you'd believe that the second shaft is more than 12.5mm.
 
Lawnboy77 said:
It’s .00787 inches. To better clarify, it’s about the thickness of the paint on the aircraft that I work on. Sprayed on a 12 mm shaft it would change the diameter about the same. I agree with you, .002 mm (.007 in) will barely even be noticeable.
Click to expand...
It’s a lot on the flooring I use to install and on the end of a cue shaft it’s a lot as well. I’ve had to switch over in middle of a match and it’s huge !!!!!!
 
My 11.8 Cynergy shaft had a transition about five or six inches from the tip where the taper changed when it was new and very black. After months of play and cleaning the shaft is a loverly silver and the radical change in taper has disappeared. I like the shaft mo'better now!


DDiabolico said:
^ This ^

We always talk about 11.75, 12, 12.4, 12.5, 12.8mm but that's just the size of the tip. In my opinion the taper is the #1 reason why people tend to believe they can feel a 0.1 or 0.2mm difference between to shafts. It also depends on what length of bridge you play with. If you use a short bridge those fractions of mm are barely noticable because most shafts have a parallel taper for at least the first few inches. If you prefer a longer bridge then it's definitely possible to feel a difference in taper rise.
For example, if you have a 12,5mm shaft with a long, low rise pro taper and another 12.5mm shaft with a conical taper, then it's likely you'd believe that the second shaft is more than 12.5mm.
Click to expand...

Excellent points here. I like the slow rise of the REVO better than the faster early rise of the Cynergy although I have admittedly very limited experience with both. With more samples of each I might change my mind. I think one of the big advantages of carbon fiber, particularly for people that make their own blanks or buy enough to have custom forms built, is going to be the ability to have outside tapers that are unplayable if cut from wood.

Hu
 
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