Kamui Tips Q/A

KamuiInsider said:
This is another situation where if it always works for you I can't say you're wrong(especially with that resumé!), but I will add my experience. To me it is similar to the instructions for would glue. You want two smooth surfaces. Less is more with the glue in this case. If the ferrule has imperfections then you gotta do something to the ferrule, but if both surfaces are flat and smooth, you shouldn't have to do any scoring.
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You are correct. Both surfaces must be flat. I often worked on that as well using extra fine sandpapaper. I think 400.
 
bbb said:
@KamuiInsider
your long replies would be easier to read
if you made some paragraphs
look at @jay helfert and @GideonF posts above
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When I was in first year university many years ago, an English professor had the following to say when assigning the first essay:

“Please write in paragraphs. If you don’t know how to write in paragraphs, at least group your sentences together so that they look like paragraphs.”
 
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KamuiInsider said:
I've never heard of them using super glue! That sounds like a terrible idea to me. The whole purpose of the clear pad is to keep the glue from oxidizing the tip over time. Spit or Tokonole is the only things besides chalk that should touch the tip! The black tip DEFINITELY gives more spin than the brown tip. This is why some prefer the brown medium so they can hit consistently with more precision rather than focusing on spin with low effort.
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The pad is not there to stop 'oxidation' of any kind. That clear pad just keeps the glue from soaking into the tip causing the tip to come off. If you would just put a dab of glue on the tip, spread it thin , let it set, then sand flat you will seal the surface and the tip will never pop off. As for spin? Give me break, they may 'feel' different but you can generate just as much spin with either tip. I've used every tip from Elk's to rock-hard buffalo to everything in between and i could spin it with any of them. This 'more precision, more spin' is just pr bullshit.
 
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garczar said:
The pad is not there to stop 'oxidation' of any kind. That clear pad just keeps the glue from soaking into the tip causing the tip to come off. If you would just put a dab of glue on the tip, spread it thin , let it set, then sand flat you will seal the surface and the tip will never pop off. As for spin? Give me break, they may 'feel' different but you can generate just as much spin with either tip. I've used every tip from Elk's to rock-hard buffalo to everything in between and i could spin it with any of them. This 'more precision, more spin' is just pr bullshit.
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You're right about oxidation at least. I just used the wrong word, but yes can confirm it is to keep the glue from soaking into the tip.
 
ldmitchell said:
Are the Kamui tips being sold on Amazon authentic or are they knockoffs?
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Great question! Some are authentic and some are not. I have been setting up an Amazon store to have some sway over counterfeits. You can always buy direct from Kamuitips.com though. We've been selling retail on our website for the last year or two.

A good indication is if they're about $25 or under, it has a good chance of being fake. If you do decide to buy from Amazon, use the serial number checker at kamuibrand.com/sn.
 
KamuiInsider said:
A question for everyone from the factory: About how long did it take your Kamui tip to glaze over?
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As I said earlier in the thread, I used Kamui Clear Black mediums for about 10 years (~2014 - ~2024). During that time I had at least 5 Kamui tips on at least 2 shafts. It was likely more, but that's what I remember for sure. The shafts I remember for sure are a McDermott i-2 and a Predator Revo 12.9. I might still have the Kamui on the i-2, I'd have to look.

The last two or three tips I had glazed over enough that I generally had to scuff my tip at least every other time I played. I don't remember enough about the earlier 2 in order to gauge timeframe, but on the last one, it was within a couple months for sure. At that point, I was using Kamui Roku or Taom V10 chalk whereas earlier on, I used Master chalk exclusively (probably for the first 3 tips). While using Master, I don't remember the same issue being a problem, but it could have been.

The Kamui/Taom chalk did its job well enough, but I'd have to reapply every few shots. In the last 3 years or so and with the tips that I have used more recently, I can play a full rack at a minimum without needing to chalk again.

I've used Whitten, Zan Hybrid Max, and Taom Fusion tips in the last 3 years with Kamui Roku without seeing a similar issue with glazing. I scuff maybe once a month playing 3-4 days a week.
 
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