BHE and my default offsets do the mechanical job. It's only a worry if you haven't worked on the zone.If people would learn how to play they would not worry about deflection.
BHE and my default offsets do the mechanical job. It's only a worry if you haven't worked on the zone.If people would learn how to play they would not worry about deflection.
This sums it up perfectly. What separates good players from average players is learning how to play with deflection in mine. In my opinion there are 2 types of aiming.If people would learn how to play they would not worry about deflection.
I didn’t know that about Mizerak. I found this very interesting and reassuring. Some readers have been giving me a hard time about my “unusual” request about how I want a couple of KW shafts made. I called lots of cue makers and nearly everyone declined or didn’t bother even calling me back. Well, apparently I share the same opinion about the cue shafts and Kielwood isn’t any different to my way of thinking but I’ll concede I could be wrong about KW shafts.Interesting, Steve Mizerak always voiced the opinion that he wanted a minimum 4 ounce shaft for straight pool, but less than 4 ounces for rotation games. He felt that the heavier shaft kept the cue ball more in line on shorter shots when playing mostly half table for 14.1. I know a lot of old timers had two different weight maple shafts - one for 14.1 and one for rotation games.
Szamboti and Balabushka cues were more favored by many top 14.1 guys. Back in the day, I recall a lot of 13MM + shafts being used.
It seems like you are more concerned with the weight and balance rather than the hit.I didn’t know that about Mizerak. I found this very interesting and reassuring. Some readers have been giving me a hard time about my “unusual” request about how I want a couple of KW shafts made. I called lots of cue makers and nearly everyone declined or didn’t bother even calling me back. Well, apparently I share the same opinion about the cue shafts and Kielwood isn’t any different to my way of thinking but I’ll concede I could be wrong about KW shafts.
However, I’ve tried several that were too light and the KW shaft I did get plays better than the other brands I’ve tried. I attribute that to how it was made and the heavier weight I want. JoeyInCali speaks about that which he knows well and was one of the first persons to contact me about my KW shaft threads.Thanks Joey and also to Mike Mosconi’s post about Mizerak. Well, I have 2 KW shafts being made and after they arrive, I’ll post photos and my review.
I’m hoping the shafts are even a little heavier than 4 ozs with a long pro taper /(12.65-mm). I now play with a 12.85mm KW shaft weighing 3.81 ozs which is the lightest shaft I want to play. My original cue shafts weigh 3.8 ozs. - 4.15 ozs which is what I want in a KW shaft. I feel reassured after reading Mike’s post about Steve Mizerak and a few cue makers like JoeyInCali. He was one of the first to confirm a KW shaft can be built heavier than what most cue makers are building, KW shafts offer less deflection which I why I’m switching.
Do you think that was by accident or intentional? Regardless, the very best names in cue making built and still build shafts weight proportional to the cue butt. Just do the research or have a discussion with a talented cue maker. I have and there is a weight ratio the best cue makers used building cues. I’ve posted about this for over a decade on Az but everyone is entitled to think, buy or believe whatever they like. Freedom of choice is great but making informed decisions is better. A shaft isn’t going to imbue you with a better stroke but it can help you play better.I never liked heavy shafts. It was my biggest knock on Szamboti. His shafts were always well over 4 ounces
The specs I gave on how I want the shaft built is because of the balance which affects the stroke which connects to the hit and feel. Build the shaft the way my cue makers built all my other shafts would make me very happy. I’ve previously posted before about KW shafts and my search to find anyone to undertake building it exactly to my specs which is the only thing that is of importance or concern to me. My KW shaft specifications include more than just its weight.It seems like you are more concerned with the weight and balance rather than the hit.
No explanation or concern of how your shaft hits but only weight.
I'm assuming if you found a great hitting shaft the weight would be the least of your concern. Which leads me to believe the shafts can hit like crap but you will still like it as long as it feels good in your hands but shoots crooked.
Buy what you like. If someone will accommodate your needs, who gives a crap what anyone else thinks?I didn’t know that about Mizerak. I found this very interesting and reassuring. Some readers have been giving me a hard time about my “unusual” request about how I want a couple of KW shafts made. I called lots of cue makers and nearly everyone declined or didn’t bother even calling me back. Well, apparently I share the same opinion about the cue shafts and Kielwood isn’t any different to my way of thinking but I’ll concede I could be wrong about KW shafts.
However, I’ve tried several that were too light and the KW shaft I did get plays better than the other brands I’ve tried. I attribute that to how it was made and the heavier weight I want. JoeyInCali speaks about that which he knows well and was one of the first persons to contact me about my KW shaft threads.Thanks Joey and also to Mike Mosconi’s post about Mizerak. Well, I have 2 KW shafts being made and after they arrive, I’ll post photos and my review.
I’m hoping the shafts are even a little heavier than 4 ozs with a long pro taper /(12.65-mm). I now play with a 12.85mm KW shaft weighing 3.81 ozs which is the lightest shaft I want to play. My original cue shafts weigh 3.8 ozs. - 4.15 ozs which is what I want in a KW shaft. I feel reassured after reading Mike’s post about Steve Mizerak and a few cue makers like JoeyInCali. He was one of the first to confirm a KW shaft can be built heavier than what most cue makers are building. KW shafts offer less deflection which I why I’m switching.
If you've ever picked up one cue, and it felt better in your hand than another...There's a reason.It seems like you are more concerned with the weight and balance rather than the hit.
No explanation or concern of how your shaft hits but only weight.
I'm assuming if you found a great hitting shaft the weight would be the least of your concern. Which leads me to believe the shafts can hit like crap but you will still like it as long as it feels good in your hands but shoots crooked.
If you've ever picked up one cue, and it felt better in your hand than another...There's a reason.
it means they sound goodharmonically stabilized
They draw a Bowstring across the wedges to see if it tweaks.oh wow!!!! I didn't realize that these shafts are "HARMONICALLY STABILIZED"........ just what does that techno babble mean and how does one accomplish that.................. they are more rigid but have less deflection??????? the two are mutually exclusive............. read a little and you will find that stiffer shafts always deflect the cue ball more............................. just more gimmicks for suckers that think more money for more expensive things will replace time and perseverance and practice.... practice .... practice
- I found this on the internet
- Kielwood® is the new generation of pool cue wood, specifically created for low deflection. It is a dark, hard rock maple that is harmonically stabilized for straightness. With traditional pie shaped shafts, each slice of the pie is susceptible to having a different reaction. Kielwood® is the solution to a continually straight and stable shaft.
I know this is crazy but try to stick with me.. some people think carbon fiber looks good on any cue.. I being one of them. Everyone likes different things. We aren’t all the same. That’s why. Hope this helpsIf Keilwood does indeed provide a low deflection quality, it just might be a savior for cue makers. Why, because looking at a carbon fiber shaft on a beautiful hand made cue seems obscene to me. Why would anyone spend good money for a beautiful personal cue only to be traumatized with a carbon fiber shaft?
exactly.If you've ever picked up one cue, and it felt better in your hand than another? There's a reason.
It’s part of the reason.If you've ever picked up one cue, and it felt better in your hand than another? There's a reason.
I used to think like that.If Keilwood does indeed provide a low deflection quality, it just might be a savior for cue makers. Why, because looking at a carbon fiber shaft on a beautiful hand made cue seems obscene to me. Why would anyone spend good money for a beautiful personal cue only to be traumatized with a carbon fiber shaft?
I’m hoping the shafts are even a little heavier than 4 ozs with a long pro taper /(12.65-mm). I now play with a 12.85mm KW shaft weighing 3.81 ozs which is the lightest shaft I want to play. My original cue shafts weigh 3.8 ozs. - 4.15 ozs which is what I want in a KW shaft.
Steve Mizerak always voiced the opinion that he wanted a minimum 4 ounce shaft for straight pool, but less than 4 ounces for rotation games. He felt that the heavier shaft kept the cue ball more in line on shorter shots when playing mostly half table for 14.1. I know a lot of old timers had two different weight maple shafts - one for 14.1 and one for rotation games.
Options allow a less forward-weighted cue with shafts available in weights 6, 7 , 8, 9, 10, and 11 ounces AND butts at 10, 11, and 12 ounces.
I used to think like that.
At first CF looked ugly to me and reminded me of the cheap fiberglass and graphite cues. And I also thought that it didn’t look good on most cues but it’s just something to get used to and now I find it to look great in most cases.
Nobody cares about the shaft when it comes to a collectible cue, they don’t put the shaft on display at shows… and since people never play with them, why even bother getting a shaft that just takes space…