Kick and stick
- Thread starter 3RAILKICK
- Start date
It depends on how many rails you are using and how close the object ball is to the cushion. With multiple rail kicks, 90% of it is knowing when its possible/likely to happen. The other 10% is being accurate enough to hit the ball full and hitting with the right speed, you can't do much about what spin the cue ball has in that case. With single rail kicks (and some 2 railers), you can do a little bit more like put follow or stun on the cue ball depending on the situation, use hold up english, use high speed, etc. there are a lot of different techiniques you can use to stop the cue ball, all can be taught, but knowing which one to use at the right time comes down to experience.
Do you just see it?( the angle of one rail kick) or do you have a method?
How do you have success at this?
Is it a teachable skill? or primarily feel/intuitive?
thanks
i just visualize the angles myself. i am by know means an expert. just an apa 5.:smile:
all my teamates are impressed with my kicking ability, even our 9. you just gotta learn when to use center ball or left or right english.
When kicking one rail at a ball that is close to the rail (couple balls off) using high english will cause the ball to "stick" if you hit the ball full. It reverses off the rail.
When kicking three rails at a ball. if you take the distance from the ball to the third rail.....then transfer that distance up the table....that is the point that you have to hit in order to come off the third rail and hit the object ball.
Now, in order to find how to get to that point, (the point off the third rail) I use the two rail system. which is to take half the distance between the cue ball and the point of contact and point it to the corner pocket in the line of the kick....then parallel the cue from the pocket to the cue ball. Using a slight half tip above center, I kick at the ball.
If you want, I have a .pdf of Kicking Systems that JR did on AZ and can email it to you if you want. It has about twenty different systems that can help you hit any ball on the table with practice. The above system isn't in the .pdf, it is something that I concocted.
When kicking three rails at a ball. if you take the distance from the ball to the third rail.....then transfer that distance up the table....that is the point that you have to hit in order to come off the third rail and hit the object ball.
Now, in order to find how to get to that point, (the point off the third rail) I use the two rail system. which is to take half the distance between the cue ball and the point of contact and point it to the corner pocket in the line of the kick....then parallel the cue from the pocket to the cue ball. Using a slight half tip above center, I kick at the ball.
If you want, I have a .pdf of Kicking Systems that JR did on AZ and can email it to you if you want. It has about twenty different systems that can help you hit any ball on the table with practice. The above system isn't in the .pdf, it is something that I concocted.
To execute the kick and stick correctly you need to walk over to see the rail and the object ball from an overhead view of both. For the stick to work you must strike the object ball as full as possible.
Depending on where the cue ball is coming from you need to decide if you're going to spin the cue ball off the rail with either inside or outside English to hit the object ball as full as you can. Or maybe no side spin is needed. The kick and stick works the best when you can gauge it so that you can use low and outside English.
This technique is very useful when playing one pocket to remove a ball that is near your opponents pocket while leaving the cue ball there.
Depending on where the cue ball is coming from you need to decide if you're going to spin the cue ball off the rail with either inside or outside English to hit the object ball as full as you can. Or maybe no side spin is needed. The kick and stick works the best when you can gauge it so that you can use low and outside English.
This technique is very useful when playing one pocket to remove a ball that is near your opponents pocket while leaving the cue ball there.