Krylon Acrylic Clear Spray

C

CueCaps

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cue Caps get handled everytime a player uses his cue.
I am was using Lacquer now. Trying Polyurethane.
Kyrlon Acrylic Clear was suggested and sounds good to me.

1. Is the Krylon Acrylic Clear hard like Polyurethane?

2. Is it hard enough to withstand all the handling?

I use spray can paint because I didn't want to set up and clean
a spray gun (I bought an air brush 'cause cue caps are small, but never used it) everytime I spray one cap.
 
Hey Alton,


You know there was a thread recently asking about a air brush. I don't know if you could spray auto clear through it or not, but an airbrush may work for a smaller surface like on JP's. If so, then overspray should be quite a bit less then a jam gun or larger.

I don't think I've tried krylon Myself, but i have used the deft that someone mentioned in the other thread. I've used the Deft lacquer though with A base coat of a good epoxy sealer, it say goes on clear and stays clear on the can. it's one of the clearest spray lacquers i've used so far. it will sand and polish fairly simular to a auto clear, and buffs out nicely, but may not be as hard of a finish as autoclear. The same company makes a poly clear also. I have a can, but have never tried it. You should be able to find the stuff at ace. the other nice thing about the stuff, is it flashes quickly, and does not seap into the faces as fast as some others products I have used. If only it was a harder finish, It would be some really good stuff.

I'd probably recomend with caps to invest in a set of mandrels, and just Use CA, but JP's being what there are, and each being custom to the cues OD, your probably making them in different diameters anyhow.:)

Wish i could be of more help,

Greg
 
??????????

i did a jump butt with this product. Its pretty when you put it on but its about as tough as Pee Wee Herman. If a joint cap were finished in it an someone dropped it you wouls look like it had powered sugar under it, ugly.
Most anything that comes out of a syray can is not going to be that tough. What about super glue?
 
You also can use automotive clear get a 2 part kind and mix small batches in little mixing cups and dip them,the finish will look like glass when your done and hard as a rock.It would also be good if you could slowly spin them as they flash/dry,and you could do 1 dip every 20 min or so till the batch gets too thick but that can take 2-3 hrs if kept sealed up with a lid.Just look for a kind that has a long pot life.
 
CueCaps said:
Cue Caps get handled everytime a player uses his cue.
I am was using Lacquer now. Trying Polyurethane.
Kyrlon Acrylic Clear was suggested and sounds good to me.

1. Is the Krylon Acrylic Clear hard like Polyurethane?

2. Is it hard enough to withstand all the handling?

I use spray can paint because I didn't want to set up and clean
a spray gun (I bought an air brush 'cause cue caps are small, but never used it) everytime I spray one cap.
Click to expand...

I think a superglue finish would be the best, tough as hell and no spraying at all.
 
Krylon Acrylic Clear

CueCaps said:
Cue Caps get handled everytime a player uses his cue.
I am was using Lacquer now. Trying Polyurethane.
Kyrlon Acrylic Clear was suggested and sounds good to me.

1. Is the Krylon Acrylic Clear hard like Polyurethane?

2. Is it hard enough to withstand all the handling?

I use spray can paint because I didn't want to set up and clean
a spray gun (I bought an air brush 'cause cue caps are small, but never used it) everytime I spray one cap.
Click to expand...

One of the hardest finishes around is a product used by museum curators like the Smithstonion called Acryloid B-72. According to a web site dedicated to
preserving wood, paper and the like claims that Krylon Acrylic is harder than
Acryloid B-72. B-72 can be dipped--Krylon has to be sprayed. Another product I have used for dipping is Oxford Polycarbonate Urethane, harder than
auto clear coat and water soluble.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues
 
I was thinking, and Has anyone ever tried door and jamb clear that comes in a spray can? I've never tried It, and the cost is high per can(around $18 I think) so I have no idea If It's any good for stuff like this, but I think dupont makes some in the spray bombs. It never seemed worth the money for spraying cues to Me, so I haven't tried It for that, but is It possible It may be worth while for something like this (spraying caps) or would cleaning the nozzle for reuse make It not worth the cost and effort? Otherwise is the stuff a one shot deal or can the same can be used more then once? Also can It be buffed and polished?

I just didn't remember seeing anyone ever mention the stuff, so thought maybe It would be of use to someone not setup to spray, or just looking for something for small jobs.:)

Greg
 
Most spray cans finishes are thin as the pressure cannot push a thicker concoction. it would take a lot more coats to build the finish up... another disadvantage is Pee Wee Herman is tougher than most spray cans.

I would recommend dipping the JP on a two part polyurethane finish, just be careful when mixing the finish as not to create bubbles in the mix.
 
Why not see what the pen makers are using? They have forums too and I am sure there are similarities in what you do with JP's and what they do with pens. I may be wrong but I believe a good amount of them use CA.

Gene
 
A gentleman that works at the local woodcraft place does alot of pen work, I've talked to him a few times and he recommended making my own clear acrylic finish by breaking up an Acrylic sheet into small pieces, and then mixing them with, I believe he said acetone. He said it melts the acrylic into a liquid, then apply. I'm not sure if he brushes it or dips it. He swears it comes out looking like glass and very strong. I haven't tried it yet but I have thought of doing it in the future.
Dave
 
A pen maker I know only uses a friction polish. I guess its ok for pens.
I don't think the Krylon Acrylic Clear will have the shine you desire. If memory serves correctly its a bit hazy and not quite clear.;)
I'd guess CA would be the easiest & look the best.
 
acryloid b72

would be very hard to use as a finish. i use the b72 in liquid form in my vacuum chamber to treat my shafts. the b72 i get from a museum is solid, looks like broken glass. i crush it into a fine powder, mix with acetone. under a vacuum, it penetrates deep into the wood and makes the shafts very solid. i have never tried to use it as a finish, but having used it for the last two years in my shafts, i believe it would take many dozens and dozens of coats to build a thick enough finish.
 
Pen maker's finish

Thanks all of you for your replys.
Ain't AZ guys Great!
I was using High Friction Wood Polish, somehow, they don't last on cue caps. I've seen ones I made for player's and they all lost that gloss.
I want my caps to look like a quality product and without that glass-like
gloss finish, I can achive that.
Some how cue caps don't get the respect as cues do in that I still have
to do the same stuff, but, on a smaller "canvas". Because of this, my prices are low for the amount of work I go thru. Spending lots of time on the finish just lessens my "profits". That is why I would like to use a a "spray can finish".
Making caps comes out to less $10/hr. Don't machinist get more, I got $10/hr working at a coffee place making lattes and stuff, in fact got more, the tips......Thanks everyone....Aloha
 
Last edited:
Varney Cues said:
Cue Crazy you may very well have the ticket...nice find. Anyone tried this stuff on wood?
Click to expand...



Yep I'm curious also. The thing is I'm not sure If It can be buffed and polished, since It's made for the jamb area, and that may be a hard area to wet sand, so It may not be made to buff out, but rather to apply a finish based on spraying only. I've never tried the stuff, cause It is expensive compared to shooting from a cup gun, and just buying clear By the gallon.
 
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