Lathe for finish work

thanks KJ for the response.

i started using an old grizzly wood lathe with an import chuck,and recently switched to a new Jet wood lathe with bed extension with double angle collets.

it just seems tough to get it all spinning dead nuts sometimes and i was wondering if anyone does it on a big metal lathe or how accurate those finishing lathes are?
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Wood-Lathe-With-Digital-Readout/G0462

This is "like" the one we puchased 8 months ago, heavy duty, Love the tail stock, our other finishing lathes tail stock didn't adjust like normal lathes it had a tightening handle under the ways, Not very user friendly. I Realy like this lathe exept for the variable speed control, not just a turn knob, you have to turn it up or down while the lathe is spinning.

Ours doesn't have the d.r. either.

Nice height on these, I'm 6'2, Some lathes are alittle short right out of the box for my taste. Added a different chuck hand tightening/loosing one, Can't remember exect name or company we got it from.

Over all, I love this lathe for sanding.
 
I use my Atlas bench lathe. I've added a chuck from a pipe threader, to the rear of the headstock. I can sand the assembled cue, from butt cap to about 8" above the joint. That's what I use for sanding & paint prep...JER
 
I have one 42" taig bed with a headstock equipped with a 4" 3-jaw chuck, not the taig chuck, & variable speed motor. It's mounted to a piece of plywood & then there's a short taig bed located a little ways out to hold the tailstock. I can use a tailstock on the long bed for only a shaft or only a butt, or I can use the tailstock on the short bed & bearing rest on the long bed for an assembled cue. I use the 3/8-16 threaded bumpers so I have a 3/8-16 stud sticking out of a 1" wooden dummy bumper that chucks up as a drive pin for the butt. Everything turns true & I can use the variable speed for slow turning the finish applicxation or fast turn for sanding/polishing. It's simple & cheap & works wonderful.
 
masonh said:
what does everyone use as a lathe for finish work,namely final sanding?
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I use a Porper repair Lathe, for most people I suppose it may be kinda expensive, however, it will set up dead nuts!!!!:)
 
I used to use a wood lathe for sanding but now do my sanding and rubbing out on a 40" Jet Metal lathe with J-2 Collets and carbide sanding arbors. I have two sets of arbors, one at .836 and the other at .842. I turn down to the larger size and then I sand down to the small size on both butt and shaft and then rub out to the larger finish size. When the shaft and butt are put together they fit pretty sporty and I can make extra shafts for my cues later without needing the butt for a good fit. The sanding arbors cost something like 250-300.00 per set but are well worth it for the convenience.

Dick
 
I used to use a wood lathe for sanding but now do my sanding and rubbing out on a 40" Jet Metal lathe with J-2 Collets and carbide sanding arbors.
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i am thinking about doing this myself.i use steel mandrels and i vary my joint size intentionally but i chucked(J-2)them up in my metal lathe and everything always spins dead nuts and on the wood lathe sometimes it takes a little work.i guess i just need to make some sort or exhaust fan behind my metal lathe.i am definitely leaning this way.,as i just don't trust the wood lathes to spin perfectly consistently.


anyway,thanks to all who posted.
 
40'' jet wood lathe grizzly makes the same one. take all your maintenance pins and put them away you won't need them, use a dead center in the head stock, and masking tape, you can put the pin in the shaft, and mask on that so you don't damage the shaft or that black you get from spinning loose. Some cues don't have a center in the pin so use a maintance pin. I never chuck maintenance pins that?s one big headache gave that up 5 years ago. If you want to use sanding mandrels, metal lathe with a collect chuck. Hope this helps, Darrin
 
hillscues said:
40'' jet wood lathe grizzly makes the same one. take all your maintenance pins and put them away you won't need them, use a dead center in the head stock, and masking tape, you can put the pin in the shaft, and mask on that so you don't damage the shaft or that black you get from spinning loose. Some cues don't have a center in the pin so use a maintance pin. I never chuck maintenance pins that?s one big headache gave that up 5 years ago. If you want to use sanding mandrels, metal lathe with a collect chuck. Hope this helps, Darrin
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You lost me. Could you elaborate on that? If you use a dead center...what end of the cue do you put it in & what do you use the masking tape for?...JER
 
i can put any shaft in between centers, and not have to worry about runout down at the tip. 1/2 of tape on shaft 1/2 on dead center i made a pin for my shafts looks like a small joint cap, it holds so good in the center i don't ever tape it . cues go in with the butt end at the headstock in the dead center side, if it spins pull it out and give it a lick.i use mantaince pins if a shaft has a brass incert,just using it for the center on the end. same gos for cues with no center in the pin, but that gos in the live center side
 
I have a Delta.

sanding lathe.JPG
 
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