LD Shaft Maintenance ?

[pocket]

Mikey, I don't do anything different with a Laminated shaft that I wouldn't do for Maple.

Except on a maple, I may use either Ammonia with an ME or Acetone with ME.

Hit it very lightly with 400. Mostly green crap from chalk and oil. Scrub with ME and Alcohol until all the blue is out.

Chris Hightowers Shaft Sealer. Wax and a leather Swatch.

Just don't want to use anything more harsh than alcohol on a Lam Shaft.

Of course, I always tape off the Decals and collar. In many cases, I used to re finish the first 4 inches of a shaft if the original finish was worn and or, worn irregularly. With Water Poly. Takes time but I have never charged anyone for a shaft clean when they want a re tip. Just one of those small services that I do for free.

The other fellow in town won't clean a shaft unless you give him 15 Bucks. When I drop off a shaft at the bar for League, I always say, "Brand new again, eh".

They inspect the new shaft and rub their hands up and down it with a smile. I have heard people talk. That extra 15 minutes that I give always comes back on me.
Plus, I would never allow a re tip to go out of the shop as dirty as it came in. Just a bit of a Pride thing.

I have found with using the Shaft Sealer, it will give a shaft the same shine as the original finish. If you do that with a shaft, and tell people how to maintain one after they use it each time, it is not uncommon for a shaft finish to last for a few months, maybe even longer.

Thanks Blue. Hey, putting the sealer on doesn't raise the grain enough to require a burnish? I'm going to order some of that shaft sealer right now.

 

[Corwyn_8]

He's talked about this before. I think it has something to do w the paraffin content in the lighter fluid. If I'm not mistaken paraffin is used to lower the temperature of the burning fuel.

The paraffin would seal, and the fuel would evaporate. Whallah, you have a sealer.

Ok, if you say so. Most list mainly Naphtha. But there has to be a better way to put paraffin on a cue shaft. One that doesn't involve inhalation hazards, for example.

Thank you kindly.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Thanks Blue. Hey, putting the sealer on doesn't raise the grain enough to require a burnish? I'm going to order some of that shaft sealer right now.

Of course the instructions state that one should use sand paper after a couple of applications of Sealer.

I have never had to use paper after a couple of applications of Hightower Sealer. One coat, let dry, another. Burnish with paper towel or leather after each has dried.

Wax On, and burnish. That is why most will use Alcohol on the ME over water as it evaporates. I have never raised the grain of a shaft using alcohol.

Your Sealer is more akin to a thin Shellac. I use Hightowers but have Bullseye too.

Now, Bulleye is also good but others will dilute that with a bit of Alcohol also. It is a bit thicker so can see where that would be a good thing. The Bullseye says that it is a Shellac on the can if I remember. You certainly won't kill anything by putting a bit in a small container and adding a bit of Alcohol for desired consistency.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

I keep hearing Rennaisance Wax mentioned and i have some and tried it on both an OB Classic+ and a Predator 314-3...

I can't ever get it to buff down to a smooth surface, it always feels like there is more friction then without the wax.

Is this just the way it is, and I'm trading smoothiness for dirt protection, or is there some trick to buffing it, applying it or other?

My shafts seem to be getting really dirty really fast lately... (That's what she said.)

b

The renaissance wax needs to be applied thin coat .
The synthetic waxes need to be applied extremely thin coats because they don't dry very fast.
My best's result's is letting the wax dry over night.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

I would like to try either or both of them waxes as I haven't heard anything bad, only good things.

 

[Bob 14:1]

This is all that I can glean from his site regarding the sealer. Note he says "while spinning."

Can this be manually applied and removed without a cue lathe to get excellent results, also??? :shrug: https://www.cuesmith.com/shaft-sealer.html

 

[ENGLISH!]

I lightly clean mine with Armour All - Car Clean & Wax which has Carnauba Wax in it & then vigorously wipe it down with brown paper bag paper to seal it.

They look brand new & feel silky.

If when playing & the humidity starts getting perspiration or body oil on them, I just take out a dollar bill & wipe it down. Back to silky.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Lighter fluid

Can I ask an innocent question? What the heck is in lighter fluid that could act as a sealant? Lighter fluid's job is to be 100% VOCs; every bit of it should evaporate (then combust). A lighter fluid that left residue on your lighter would be a pain.

Thank you kindly.

I don't wish to confuse anyone, I would NOT use Lighter fluid on any Laminated LD shaft or any shaft that has a resin reinforced layer .

I have used lighter fluid on 2 non laminated LD shafts that I made.

Most of the time there are many ways to any one thing.

When a member PMed me and told me to use lighter fluid on a shaft I thought it might be a very bad Idea.

I did a half assed job on the first practice piece of shaft I did.
And was going to drop the idea of using Lighter fluid ( LF ) .

After this member contacted me again asking what I thought , I tried using the lighter fluid again and said to myself I have nothing to loose on my practice shaft.

So I turned my lathe to as fast as it would go, soaked a white paper towel with lighter fluid and got after it, knowing that the scape piece of shaft was going to smell terrible.

After a couple coats or applying LF I noticed it was getting burnish in .
I chucked one of the shafts for my main player closed my eyes and wiped on a white paper towel soaked with lighter fluid.

After 3 or 4 coats I could notice a difference and the shaft doesn't smell of LF.
Apply synthetic car wax or Renaissance wax and wow, very nice smooth shaft that slides though your fingers like silk.


Toxic fumes , Personally I didn't know it was any more toxic then the rest of the stuff in my shop .

I have a respirator, and I do use it.
Actually I think wearing Nitrlle gloves is just as important.

Straight up Lighter fluid does work well and it doesn't smell.
The lighter fluid works really good as a shaft cleaner too.

I am sure there are other methods that work good too...
I just haven't found them and to be honest, I am very happy to just keep on using Lighter fluid because I know it works and it protects the wood.


As of why it works and stuff like that.
I was a diesel engine mechanic most of my life, winter time was all about changing waxed up fuel filters.
I was amazed at the amount paraffin that was in diesel fuel.
After the member told me to use Lighter fluid got me thinking and there are allot of fuels that have paraffin in it.

What I missed was that there is paraffin oil and paraffin wax.
I am guessing that the reason that LF works so good is because of the Paraffin oil or wax or both..

Its my theory .
But LF does work well on solid maple shafts and I wouldn't use it on a laminated shaft.


Good luck guys