Leaving a nipple on a breaktip

alphadog

alphadog

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a ob lift shaft that I am trying to use as a breakshaft. I didnt expect trouble but cant keep a tip on. I read quite a few posts about installing "breaktips", and believe I did everthing right. Tip still came off. Tried 3 times,So I decided to have a tip cut with a 1/8" nipple that is 3/16" long . I drilled a whole down into center of ferrule tenon and thru the carbon fiber pad. Glued it up w new gorlla epoxy and am letting it cure for 24 hours.
So have I made a big mistake? Anyone else tried this?
 
Well, drilling through the carbon fiber pad kinda defeats the purpose of having it - it may still hold up (though your warranty won't).
I haven't seen a Lift shaft yet, but OB's generally have a hollow tube down the middle filled with foam. So you may have drilled into nothing and that pin won't have anything to bond to. Maybe the Lift shaft is different. :sorry:
What kind of break tip are you trying to glue?
Gary
 
***** usually the carbon fiber pads are on the low deflection shafts to prevent the ferrule from cracking/exploding under impact.***
I had a customer bring me a shaft that had a noise when he broke with it. He had just had a break tip installed and used it a few times. When I looked at it, you could turn the tip but the ferrule stayed put, but you couldn't pull the tip off. The guy that did it used the nipple method and drilled into the ferrule and tenon of a custom Pechauer shaft. To fix this, I had to replace the tenon, as it was cracked, and the ferrule, then put on a white diamond. IMHO, and I am not knocking anyone's methods, the nipple method not the proper way to do a tip. In this case, instead of a tip popping off, it took a tenon and ferrule replacement. BTW, the white diamond is still on without a nipple....:D
Dave


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2 Questions I have about the pin method,
1) Do you ask the customer first before drilling into their cue?
2) why use a white diamond, then use a phenolic or G10 rod? If the person breaking hits middle ball, they are hitting with the phenolic/G10, not the white diamond, correct? Why not just use a phenolic or G10 tip also? I'm not knocking the method, I just don't understand the reasoning for 2 different types of materials.
I have done about 25 white diamonds in the last 2 months alone, and so far haven't lost one yet and some of the players are A or B players that break really hard.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
So...answers??? anyone?
Dave
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If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times... There is no one-size-fits-all solution. You must take the the tip material and ferrule material into consideration then match a technique AND adhesive to best fit the situation.
 
Feel Free to call us up here at OB Cues and ask for Doc or Jacob (shop manager), They will be able to help you out. 972-578-9100 or 877-399-9901
 
ratcues said:
If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times... There is no one-size-fits-all solution. You must take the the tip material and ferrule material into consideration then match a technique AND adhesive to best fit the situation.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ryan for your response, but was really looking for Kim to answer my questions... to me his method is just a work around for not knowing the right way to get a tip to hold. If I'm paying $25 for a white diamond and get it back with a phenolic center and my ferrule was drilled in to without my consent, I'd be pissed and he would be paying for another guy to put it back right. Especially seeing other people don't do it that way, and they have no problem, the tip stays on... see where I'm going???
To me, Bad advice is just that.....
Dave
 
I would like to know why you feel the phenolic rod is the way to go?
I have had bo issues with White Diamond tips, they seems to glue just fine. Samsara is the only tip I have problems with from time to time, but I guess it's just a matter of finding the right glue for the job...
 
Dave38 said:
Thanks Ryan for your response, but was really looking for Kim to answer my questions... to me his method is just a work around for not knowing the right way to get a tip to hold. If I'm paying $25 for a white diamond and get it back with a phenolic center and my ferrule was drilled in to without my consent, I'd be pissed and he would be paying for another guy to put it back right. Especially seeing other people don't do it that way, and they have no problem, the tip stays on... see where I'm going???
To me, Bad advice is just that.....
Dave
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I agree. My response wasn't aimed at you but you did ask "anyone?" so, against my better judgement, I chimed in. :cool:
 
whammo57 said:
1... no ... it's a break cue..........



Kim
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So your saying that because it's a break cue means it's less of a cue? My buddy has an Alex Brick breaker and he paid a hefty price for it, (more than most pay for a cue and breaker together) and I know how he would react to his ferrule being drilled without his consent, just to have a tip put on.
To each their own, but I would advise anyone that goes this route,
to 1) clear it with their customer first and 2) don't do it to a predator BK 2 or 3 or any other LD shaft. Not only does it void the warranty, but catastrophic failure can occur.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
So your saying that because it's a break cue means it's less of a cue? My buddy has an Alex Brick breaker and he paid a hefty price for it, (more than most pay for a cue and breaker together) and I know how he would react to his ferrule being drilled without his consent, just to have a tip put on.
To each their own, but I would advise anyone that goes this route,
to 1) clear it with their customer first and 2) don't do it to a predator BK 2 or 3 or any other LD shaft. Not only does it void the warranty, but catastrophic failure can occur.
Dave
Click to expand...

I make my own T-shaped jump and breaker tip.
That way, I only drill ( I actually use a 4-flute 1/4 mill ), I only drill the ferrule's cap or shallow depth on the tenon.
Cut a flat on the bottom of the tip so it does not spin.
Have had no problems with it yet .
Drilling through the whole tenon is kinda scary.
Plus you add too much weight with a phen or G-10 rod imo.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
I make my own T-shaped jump and breaker tip.
That way, I only drill ( I actually use a 4-flute 1/4 mill ), I only drill the ferrule's cap or shallow depth on the tenon.
Cut a flat on the bottom of the tip so it does not spin.
Have had no problems with it yet .
Drilling through the whole tenon is kinda scary.
Plus you add to much weight with a phen or G-10 rod imo.
Click to expand...

But, the big difference, you're doing it to your own product, and it's your design from the start.....not a customer bringing in their breaker for replacement of a tip, that was just a normal tip glued on great, now comes out with a drilled ferrule, and tip with a rod in it, and then the next guy down the road has to deal with figuring how to deal with it.... And the customer never had a say in it, because, as stated " it's a breaker"
Dave
 
I never said my way was the only way... And I never criticised anyone else's way.... What I do works very well and causes no harm to the shaft or changes the feel or balance of the cue.... As for adding mass to an LD... shaft.... Why would anyone break with an LD shaft?.. The mass change is not measurable.... People like Dave drive this forum into the ground...

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
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